If you are lucky, there is a ceremony going on to chase away the bad spirits, which is done by transvestites dancing and singing. SO special and a bit funny too. Do keep in mind these men have a very special role in society

We must have spent a good 2 hours on top of this pagoda, talking to a lovely young burmese man (who after A LOT of pursuasion we brought from). Such beautiful views and we even got to see a rainbow across the valley. Get there early to get a good/comfy seat!

Yes there are hoardes here for sunset, but who cares? You look out on hundreds on temples, and the river. Indelible.

Popular sunset place, expect crowds from the busload.

Try and climb from the east because there are fewer people. Then you can always walk around to the west to see the sunset.

Applies to all "famous' pagodas in Bagan: While the architecture of most of them is impressive, the tour-groups, etc. render such kind of places to a mere "zoo-happening", leaving not too much of an atmosphere (especially at sunset). Tip: Go for the smaller ones. They still provide a good view across the landscape, but give you much more privacy.

I visited this temple about 40 minutes after sunrise and had the place to myself. I hear its popular for sunset, but we choose other less populated places. Steep steep steps but great views.

A very old stupa built in the 11th century. A must see.

Using your imagination and a little enterprise you can find equally interesting but much quieter places at sunset. We enjoyed the Shwesandaw on our first night, but subsequently found other sites on our three other evenings. Take a torch (flashlight).