Getting to this onsen inn takes a bit of ingenuity. It's own website is just in Japanese, but it has a budget annex with English web pages, and can be booked through it. Plus the inn is an unexpected distance from the train station, but the inn is more than happy to pick up from the station.

The little village where this inn is located is a picture perfect mountain idyll. English guidebooks talk of Yufuin as the quiet cozy alternative to Beppu, but Yufuin is the big city compared to Yunohira.

Food at the Shimizu is fabulous, a never ending spread both for dinner (the in room service is especially nice) and breakfast. The inn's 'cave' hot spring is novel; the outdoor pool also special. Room was very big, essentially a suite with several separate 'chambers'. Staff quite friendly.

'tis a bit pricey, but a great splurge. more