We stayed at the Apartments Martini in Vrsine, in the hills above Trogir. Set amidst olive groves, the village is quiet and sees few tourists, so you get a real feel for the countryside. Particularly interesting are the ruins of the traditional farmsteads set amongst the newer village houses.

The apartments are modern, clean and very comfortable. We got a great welcome from Ivo, the owner, and his family. They provided a home-cooked traditional meal on our first night, complete with with cheese and ham smoked in their own smoke-house, wine from their own grapes, and delicious bread baked in the local way 'under the peka'.

If you're staying anywhere near, make sure you have a meal at Dona Banda in Vrsine (signposted by the shop). There doesn't seem to be a menu, but the mixed grill with spit roast lamb done over an open fire was wonderful - and you certainly don't need to worry what the bill will come to.

With Trogir just a few minute's drive away... more