Assos is quite beautiful, and undoubtedly suffers because people go to Troy and pass it by, and if they do visit tend to stay down by the harbour. Eris is up on the hill right next to the ruins. So we were really torn between enjoying Emily's lovely tea and home-made cake on her terrace with gorgeous views over the hills - a lovely respite after a hard day's touring - or sitting in the deserted temple watching a superb sunset over the Aegean. Choices, choices.

This is a charming old house, and our room was a lovely, simple, white-washed affair. Spotlessly clean and simply but nicely done out, with lots of hot water. We got a room for ourselves and our two kids, which was just right for the night, as quiet as youi can imagine, and with the chance for Emily's breakfast - all fresh fruit and home-made jam - on the terrace. Emily was a lovely hostess - we ended up having an excellent dinner together, and hearing about Turkey. Our only regret was that we didn't spend longer here... more