Nara is fabulous. It's compact, easily exlporable on foot and is home to some of the most spectacular cultural sights in Japan. If you spend anytime touring Kyoto you'd be making a big mistake if you didn't take the short train ride to Nara. Adjacent to the deer park, where most of these ancient monumental structures are located, is Kikusuirou Ryokan. Kikusuiro is not as old or as polished as its Kyoto cousins but I'm very pleased that we stayed. The location can not be beat. The service while different was first class. The suite was large and an amusing mix of ancient Japanese pieces and "shabby chic" western furnishings. Our attendant was a wonderful young Japanese lady. She was as elegantly kimono-ed up as any lady in Kyoto and she did not speak a single word of English. Not even yes or no but she was as much fun as anyone we encountered in Japan.

The kaiseki was the equal of any in Kyoto and the public bath area was the most interesting we experienced in... more