We actually booked or thought we had booked Riad Nakhla as recommended as the author's choice in the Lonely Planet. We even spoke to the owner and confirmed our reservation again by telephone on the morning we were arriving in Essaouira. We arrived at Riad Nakhla only to be told we were staying somewhere else and a man came and took us to Dar Marhaba! First of all, if your hotel is overbooked please tell your guests so they can decide for themselves what to do next, don't get greedy and show them your friend's place! I advise all people thinking of staying at Riad Nakhla to be aware that your booking may not be honoured!
Luckily Dar Marhaba was just off the main thoroughfare down the alley from Bob Music. It seemed very beautifully decorated and the same price as Nakhla so we took a room.
We went off to explore but returned in the evening to find that a) the toilets were not flushing b) hot water was not running and c) the rooms were freezing cold and there were no heaters... more