First the good. A lot of places claim to be "paradise" and have the image of the coconut tree hanging out over the beach. This place certainly meets that and, for scenic points, tromps the five star resorts on Aitutaki, or anyplace else in the Cooks. The water fluoresces blue, the beaches perfect and plentiful, the sunsets are awesome. There is only one other place to stay on the island, and if you are off season a bit, you 'll probably have the island to yourself (except for the caretaker). There is a kayak that you can borrow and go to adjacent islands that are truly uninhabited. The reef is a five minute walk away with the best snorkling around Aitutaki.

The lodge itself is a converted terminal for the cross-Pacific flying boats of early last century. There is a stand-alone kitchen, supplied with utensils, stove and fridge. Sound perfect?

Now the bad. The mosquitos are horrendous. They will get inside the house because the screens are not maintained and... more