I must admit that my heart sank as we pulled up outside the stop that we had booked by phone the previous evening. Speaking as a light sleeper, the proximity of the gas station and tyre depot right outside the window was not promising.

However, my misgivings were unjustified. The proprietor, a cheery fellow from Alabama, chatted with me for so long that the wife came to find out where I'd got to. He's a hunter, and the rooms are full of memorabilia. I forget how many sets of horns festooned our Mule Deer Room, but anyway, it was lots. I don't generally have a lot of time for people who go shooting defenceless animals - seems a bit one sided to me - but this guy only hunts with a bow and arrow, and his wife only uses a muzzleloading powder and ball, so respect to them for not being part of the usual AK47 brigade.

Anyways, our room was stuffed(!) full of character, 2 beds, decent bathroom, the curtains were a bit on the homemade side, but they worked better than... more