Well, sadly I am back in front of the computer at home, trying to relive the glory of 14 days in Ireland, a land that will forever be in my heart as someplace an Italian-American can easily feel at home and in love.
When last I posted I was headed to Galway from Killarney, I think. Before I go on I'll give my thoughts on the town. Known as a "tourist trap", I have to say I found Killarney fairly charming and friendly. Granted, it was May and not full tourist season.... but it is a good central location for a base of exploration, and though you probably won't get a "hang aound with locals" experience there, if you avoid the glaringly "just for tourist" stuff you'll be OK. (I noticed quite a few restaurants had special "tourist menus". Avoid them.) Bricin Restaurant was very good. Failte Hotel Restaurant was terribly overpriced and just passable.
Quick review of Ross Castle Lodge B&B: Rosaleen's place is wonderful. I cannot say enough good things about her as a hostess - pleasant, informative, sweet, knows just when to stay and chat and when you need some time. Her traditional breakfasts are amazing - Clonakilty black pudding, loads of thick ham. The best trad breakfast I had in Ireland. Her home is spotless and comfy cozy, without being froo-froo. The room was good sized, with a very comfy queen-sized bed. Quiet location near Ross Castle, lush gardens in the yard with a patio for guests, easy 15-20 min walk into town through the park, but it may be too far out for some people unless you don't mind cabbing it back after a late night. We found it perfect.
We left Killarney very early (no later than 9) to head to Galway via the ferry and the Burren. Rosaleen had given us a "short cut" to avoid Tralee, where she said we would get lost. Farranfore-Castleisland-Abbeyfeale then over to Listowel... we got lost anyway. ;-) Castleisland, Castlemaine... they SOUND close! Anyway, we lost about an hour, but made the ferry by half 11. The weather was good when we left, but misted over and chilly by the ferry and foggier the further north we got.
By the time we got to the Cliffs of Moher, the fog was so thick we almost missed the car park! We contemplated not stopping at all, not knowing the cost or what was involved with the new visitor center, as by now it was close to 1pm.
We had come out of our way to see the Cliffs, so I insisted we stop, plus we had to take a driving (bathroom) break. So we went into the visitor center (done nicely, I think). Looking towards the cliffs you could see absolutely nothing. Just fog. Came out of the bathrooms, and the Cliffs were clear!!! The fog had lifted just like that. So we ran to the walkway to see.
Having been to the Cliffs in 1999, all I can say is how saddened I was to see the way that walkway is done. The center itself is nice, and unobtrusive... but the walkway.... oh, man...I almost cried. You cannot see the base of the cliffs, the water crashing, nor can you experince the power of the location. We walked from one end to the other trying to see where they made it possible to get an unobstructed view, and it doesn't exist, not even from O'Brien's Tower.
The fog came back in, we left. Ddn't drive further north towards Doolin to see the views from there as the fog was back, so we headed inland to Kilfenora and the Burren.
The cathedral and high crosses at Kilfenora are well worth a stop. They moved the crosses under cover to save them and it is done nicely... then we headed to the Burren Perfumery, in the tiny little village of Caran - really out of the way and worth the side trip just to be where there are no tourists. The perfumery was nice if you don't mind the trip down narrow, narrow roads to get there. Nice tea room for a break, and the sun had come back out. I asked for a good way to get to R480 and north to Ballyvaughan, and the woman said "there's a road from Caran with a wonderful stone fort on it, will take you there, but it is narrow...." Hah! We were expert drivers by now, so we took her directions of "first right after the pub at the top of the hill" and started driving straight up a rock hillside on a road so narrow and unused it had grass growing down the middle of it. And it climbed, and twisted, and there was a cliff on one side, and it couldn't *possibly* be the right road. I found a place to turn around and go back the way we came, and got us to the R480 the long way. And as we were driving, we saw exactly where this road would have come out. Yes, it WAS the right road, it was even on the map! So we missed what I hear is a terrific stone fort.
But up the road is the Poulnabrone Dolmen which was incredibly atmospheric and in such a wonderful location. The Burren rock fields are all around, such a weird, wild and lovely landscape. Took loads of pictures of "just rocks" (hubby says). I think they stand on their own as "art" ;-)
On to Ballyvaughan and Monk's for their much-acclaimed seafood chowder and dinner. It was a great meal, and we had an interesting chat with a local about the "sin" of what they did with the cliffs. Ballyvaughan is a cute town, I would recommend it as a place to stay. We didn't, and continued on the Galway. Surprisingly, we navigated our way straight to our B&B in downtown Galway with no problems!
This drive (Killarney-Galway) was the longest distance and took a good 11 hours wiith stops. If I did it again I would break it in two as it IS a long day and there is so much to explore along the way.