Before posting 2nd installment, here is a bit more details about our trip and our planning process.
This was our 3rd safari (previously to Botswana in June 2005 and Tanzania in Feb 2012). We wanted to visit Kenya since many folks we met in the Serengeti liked Masai Mara better, and we wanted to see for ourselves. Our goals for the trip were the following:
- See a river crossing. Also, while we saw the migration in the Serengeti during Feb 2012, but it was in more of a woodsy area and not the iconic savannah scene.
- See the wild dogs. We saw a pack hunting on the very first drive of our very first safari (Duma Tau, Botswana). But we had no idea what we were seeing
- Be able to go for a walk or do something else other than driving in a jeep all day every day.
With those goals in mind, our itinerary was as follows:
- One night in Nairobi at the Eka hotel just to transit.
- 3 nights at Laikipia Wilderness Camp (best place in the world to see wild dogs)
- 3 nights at Kicheche Bush Camp in the Olare Orok conservancy
- 2 nights at Rekero Camp near the Mara River in the reserve.
- Half day in Nairobi where we visited the Giraffe Center, Elephant Orphanage and Kazuri Beads
Now, some summaries and lessons learned:
Booking Agent/Operator: We used Expert Africa for this trip, and Richard Trillo (frequent contributor here) was our primary contact. Richard was awesome. Super knowledgeable and very patient with my questions. I think he also requested the best guides for us at each camp. I would recommend him with the highest endorsement.
Camps: We were very happy with all the ones we chose (with the exception of the vehicle at Rekero – see below or my review). I think all my reviews have been published on TA. Both LWC and Kicheche rank among the best ever in our experience (although for very different reasons!).
Animals sighting highlights: Unbelievably action packed safari. We had seen just about every animal on previous trip, but this was the first time we saw animals mating and actual kills. We saw 4 kills live. Also saw a baby gazelle about 10 minutes old, taking its first steps. We saw the wild dogs 3 separate times, including one pack that traveled with an adopted hyena ☺. Also loved the beautiful northern species Grevey zebras and reticulated giraffes.
Migration / river crossing: While we did see 2 river crossing, and 3 crocodile attempts at crossing animals (including a successful snatch of a topi), our timing was a bit of a disappointment. We spent 2 whole days waiting for crossings, and for the most part, there was a lot of massing of the herds (which was interesting to watch in itself), but no big crossing. One day we gave up only to hear that an hour later there was a crossing. Also on the day after we left the area, there was a huge mega crossing, which has continued daily according to Rekero’s facebook. SMH. Oh well. Something to look forward to next time!
Now a bit more details on the camps and areas we visited:
Laikipia / LWC: This was probably the funnest safari experience. The camp itself is not particularly luxurious, but had great food, fun fellow guests, great hosts/guides, and lots of different activities. Every day was different. It was more like visiting friends for a house party than being at a safari camp. And of course, it’s the best place in the world to see wild dogs. You would be extremely unlucky to stay 3 days and not see the dogs.
Olare Orok / Kicheche Bush Camp: This was an A+ experience. For us, the only thing that rivaled it in our limited experience was Mombo Camp / Chief’s Island (I know, high praise!). The migration was still in the area, which was also packed with lions. We had the single most action-packed game drive ever, during which we saw lions mating, baby hyena cubs, and the most dramatic lion hunt/kill of a wildebeest during a night drive. You will have to read my photo diary to see ☺. Also loved being able to go for a walk on the plains of Masai Mara.
Masai Mara National Reserve / Rekero Camp: We had a very good time here, but compared to the other 2, a little bit of a disappointment. We had an excellent guide and on the first drive, saw 2 kills by the same lion. But we were not really successful in witnessing a crossing. Since it required a lot of waiting around, sharing a vehicle is not really the best option if one was determined to see a crossing. Also for some inexplicable reason, Rekero uses close sided vehicles with the old fashion metal tops. So it was either sitting in the hot sun, or no photos. For this reason alone I would choose a different camp next time. Also, the reserve was really crowded. Many trucks surrounding a poor animal.
Nairobi: Eka hotel was fine. There’s a new bypass so traffic to Wilson was no issue (drive took about 20 minutes). We were able to visit Giraffe Center, Elephant Orphange and Kazuri Beads after getting back from Masai Mara and before boarding our evening flight. All 3 are very worth doing and half day is enough time.
Finally, a bit on “lessons learned”:
Compared to Tanzania: Hard for me to say, since I loved Tanzania, but I think Masai Mara conservancy beats the Serengeti hands down. Same ecosystem but so many fewer tourists, and more freedom to do night drives, walks, etc. The reserve was very similar to the Serengeti. One advantage of Tanzania, at least the Northern Circuit, was that we drove the whole time, which meant we had the same guide and vehicle all to ourselves. If there’s someway to do the same in Kenya that would be the best of all worlds.
Visa: The visa was a breeze at Nairobi. There actually does appear to be a line for people who filled out the online form, but it did not seem to move any faster.
Weather/Bugs: Very cold at night / early morning (I’d say high 40’s to low 50’s) and hot during the day. Cloudy skies in the afternoon but just one brief shower. No bugs at all! Never even opened the insect repellent.
I think that’s all! Thanks to everyone who answered my questions during my planning phase. You helped us to have an amazing trip. If I can be of any help to folks who are planning a trip, please don’t hesitate to PM me.