We traveled to Jamaica over the Christmas holidays in 2005. We rented a car and traveled around the northern, southwestern and western portions of Jamaica, staying in Negril (at Tensing Pen and Rockhouse) and in Ocho Rios at Chrisanns. We'd never driven on the other side of the road before, so it was quite an experience. However, I would NOT suggest driving at night or driving up into the hills, off the beaten path (hire a driver!). We did not want to stay in any of the all-inclusive hotels as we wanted to experience more of the Jamaica feel, so we stayed in Negril (at Rockhouse Hotel and Tensing Pen Resort) and in Ocho Rios at Chrissans (3-4 miles east of Ocho). All three places we stayed were different.

Chrisanns in Ocho Rios is more like an apartment complex than a resort or hotel. The locals own these apartments, I believe, and rent them out for part of the year. I forget the apartment number of our rental, but it was a studio apartment (it was just me and my husband), the first apartment located to the right of the check-in desk (as you face the ocean). The apartment itself was not shabby (as someone else experienced); instead, it was quite nice. But the different apartments are owned by a variety of different people, so they are furnished quite differently. Some people will probably spend more than others on furnishings, etc.

We met some of the locals who lived in the apartment complex and got some great tips on where to go and where to eat. There is no restaurant at Chrisanns (it’s an apartment complex, not a hotel), but there is a fantastic little restaurant right across the street and a dynamite (expensive and worth it!) Italian restaurant less than a mile west of the restaurant. It’s the only one around, so you can ask for the Italian restaurant near Chrisanns and get the name of it. Absolutely fabulous food and wine! And a very friendly atmosphere!

The employees at Chrisanns were all very nice and the accommodations were comfortable and quaint. One of our favorite activities at Chrisanns was sitting out by the end of the pool, facing the ocean after a long day gallivanting around the countryside (we aren’t beach/pool/sun worshippers, preferring to spend our time actively doing things during the day rather than laying in the sun doing nothing). If you are looking for glitz and activity, don’t stay here. If you are looking for nightlife, don’t stay here. Go to an all-inclusive for that. If you want a local feel, a laid-back atmosphere, and some privacy, then check out Chrisanns. Also, if you set up a tour (e.g., a dive trip or zip line or tubing adventure, etc.), get a driver to pick you up. It’s a minimal charge and they all know where Chrisanns is located.

After we left Ocho Rios, we went to Negril. Tensing Pen was probably my favorite place in Jamaica. Though we didn't have air conditioning in our bungalow (we were in the Seagrape 1, on the bottom floor), we were fine without it. Since we are from Miami, FL, we are accustomed to the heat, so that was no problem, especially with the breezes that blew through the bungalow. Others not accustomed to the heat might be bothered by it, but there are other bungalows that offer air conditioning, so request one of those (and the bungalows go quickly so allow yourself plenty of time when making your reservations).

The food at Tensing Pen was the best we had during our entire stay in Jamaica. The cook would write the menu for the evening meal, and you signed up for it or ventured out to eat elsewhere. The ambiance was fantastic. On one of our evening meals, we ate with the family who owned the hotel--very nice and interesting people. The employees at Tensing Pen were fabulous. It's been a year since I've been, so I cannot remember their names, but everyone from the man who managed the property (and likes fishing the cliff) to the cook to the masseuse were exceedingly friendly. We thoroughly loved those guys and enjoyed just hanging around and talking to them. And if you are sweet and tip the cook, she will go out of her way to pack up lunches for you to take out on your daily adventures, etc. If you want great food, great people, and great views, you’ll love Tensing Pen. I would say it is one of the best places we have stayed and we’ve been to a dozen different countries and multiple places within those countries.

Rockhouse was also a beautiful place. It wasn't as friendly an atmosphere as Tensing Pen since it had more of a hotel ambiance (though not that of a big or all-inclusive hotel). The villas were spectacular. We were in one at the end of a cove, so it was secluded and removed from the bulk of the activity. It didn't get as much of a breeze as some of the other villas right on the outcroppings of the cliffs, but it suited our need for privacy quite well. The hotel served good food (not anywhere near as good as Tensing Pen), but it was overpriced. The best service we had was at the pool bar, not because we liked hanging out at the pool (we typically don’t), but because the cook/bartender was great company (and made some killer drinks!), the food was pretty good and decently priced, and the ambiance was lovely.

I would highly recommend that anyone staying at Rockhouse snorkel the cliffs right below them. We saw more color and more activity at the base of the cliffs right by our bungalow and around the hotel than we did when we went out sailing and snorkeling the reefs. In fact, we even got to watch a stonefish and needlefish fight (the needlefish lost and was subsequently eaten—National Geographic Channel without even turning on a TV!). The coral and anemones are brilliant greens and blues and reds. What a healthy reef system--all right below your feet! You just walk down the corral rock stairs cut into the cliff, right into the water. (We took our own snorkel gear with us, but I'm sure the hotel offers some for rent.).

Enjoy!