Hotel Mocking Bird Hill is a gem. If your Jamaican travel plans include Port Antonio, a stay at Mocking Bird Hill can be a highlight of your trip. And if your plans do not yet include Port Antonio, Mocking Bird Hill is reason enough to change your plans. We had read good things about this boutique hotel, but what we experienced exceeded even our expectations. And with the brilliant young German chef, Elmar Rensch, in the kitchen, its restaurant is first rate.
We arrived late in the afternoon after a long drive from our stop in the Blue Mountains. Here it is worth noting that we nearly skipped Port Antonio because we were driving a rental car and had read tales of the poor roads leading there. True, the roads are badly potholed, and the driving along the south and east coasts was tedious, but this 67 year old driver found both this route and the much prettier return route that we took to Kingston via Annatto Bay and the mountains to be quite doable.
We found Shireen Aga, one of the owners, in the balcony bar area, and we were immediately offered cold towels and fresh squeezed juice to revive us as we marveled at the view of the mountains and of Port Antonio’s harbor in the distance. When we mentioned that we had not had lunch, menus appeared, and we were soon enjoying very tasty open-faced sandwiches. No mention had been made of checking in. This was more like arriving at the home of friends, and very considerate friends at that, than at a hotel.
This consideration was further evidenced when Elmar sought us out to discuss the menu for dinner. When we had ordered our lunch, we had mentioned that we wanted to avoid salt in our foods as much as possible. Elmar suggested how he might adapt the selections that he had planned and also offered to make any other dishes that we wanted. Each evening he checked with us to assure that we would have meals that were both delicious and in keeping with our dietary peculiarities.
Of course, one does not live by dinner alone – breakfasts are, to me, even more important. And the breakfast chef dazzled us with delights like banana pancakes (actually crepe-like creations) in a very light sauce made from an excellent locally produced honey and dabbled with cinnamon and crème fraiche.
Mocking Bird Hill is a beautiful place. The gardens are lush, and the feeling of the gardens is drawn into the interior spaces though artful design and the extensive use of plants and flowers. Co-owner Barbara Walker’s artistic talent is much in evidence.
Our room was lovely as well with good beds and a ceiling fan that made for very comfortable sleeping during our stay in June. We were lulled to sleep by the songs of crickets and tree frogs.
It might be tempting to never leave this hilltop enclave with its large, attractive pool. And you certainly want to be there for the complimentary afternoon tea and sundowner cocktails. But the beach at Frenchman’s Bay is well worth visiting. Transportation is provided because although the beach is not very far along the main road from the hotel, the road up the hill to the hotel is quite long. The bay sits within attractive landscaped gardens. A narrow river runs through the gardens and empties into the ocean at one end of the picturesque, sandy beach. The beach bar serves an excellent jerk chicken lunch.
We spent the better part of a day on an excursion that included a leisurely raft ride down the Rio Grande River and a hike through the hillside with a local farmer. Like all of the Jamaicans that we had met during our first week (and those that we were to encounter during the rest of our 17 day trip), this gentleman was warm and welcoming (a most pleasant experience considering how many guidebooks temper their praise for the island’s natural beauty with warnings about harassment by vendors and threats to one’s safety – we experienced none of that). At the end of our hike we were welcomed for drinks at the home of a couple who had “retired” to the Port Antonio area and now operate a farm that provides Mockingbird Hill with a variety of goat cheeses as well as the previously mentioned honey.
So if you have ever wondered what would happen if an artist and a resort consultant were to open a hotel on a beautiful hilltop on a Caribbean island and were to staff their restaurant with talented chefs, go to Mockingbird Hill. You will find the best that can happen.






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