Stay at Hemingway Resort. The beach is so beautiful and peaceful. The cabanas are rustic and romantic. We stayed ocean front in the Buho cabana and it met our needs perfectly. Hot water was a little hard to come by, but it was clean, the decor darling, and watching the sun rise over the water from bed every morning was unforgettable.
A word of caution though, you may want to avoid eating meals there other than the free breakfast (assorted bread with papaya jam, followed by fresh mango, pineapple, melon & papaya). The food is good and portions are big, but be prepared to pay premium NYC prices which may lead to some sticker shock when settling up on your last day.
There are no menus; you just sit down and ask for a meal and they bring you what they have without mention of price. When we first arrived we had an amazing cold seafood salad, put together with the catch of the day: octopus, scallops, squid, barley and pico de gallo topped with a jumbo shrimp. It was the freshest-tasting seafood we'd ever had, caught that morning by local fishermen. The next night we had dinner there: pasta with scallops followed by an enormous fillet of salmon with thinly-sliced potatoes on top. With no refrigeration on the premises, we couldn't take home leftovers. Looking at the itemized bill before checking out, that seafood salad was $32 and that pasta was $38 and that salmon was $44 which we were not prepared for.
A couple of other restaurants that were delightful (and less of a surprise when the bill came) -- for a five-star dinner, Hechizo, run by the classically-trained chef/son of Austrian emigres, where we had one of the best meals of our lives, and for authentic Mexican, Don Cafeto, great mole & pickle salad.




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