We stayed at the Hotel Tirrenia for one week at the beginning of June with our 4 year old. Lucca and his family could not have been more friendly and helpful, taking time out to chat with our daughter.

The hotel is exceptionally clean and modern. A third bed for our daughter fitted comfortably in our balcony room (at the front of the hotel). There was a wide selection of food at breakfast.

The location was extremely convenient for both the beach, shopping and getting around. We took the train, about 10 minutes walk from the hotel, to Florence for the day, and had a hire car to visit Pisa and Lucca.

We visited the Puccini House on the Torre De Lago, which was very interesting.

We would have no hesitation in returning or recommending this hotel.

Many thanks for Lucca and his family.

THE HOTEL
Absolutely first class! Having seen all the positive reports about this hotel we decided to book it for a week and to arrange everything ourselves. We were not disappointed.
We have learned over the years that the best hotels are the smaller, family run ones and this one confirmed our view.
Everything about it was a pleasure, right from e-mailing to enquire about availability and rates to the return home. Booking early (online) also meant that we paid lower rates for the hotel and about half the price which was being asked for a flight in the few weeks before we went. (Hotel €665 for the week (no deposit needed), flight from Leeds/Bradford inclusive of all extras £154 – both for two people. Say £360 per person all in when 1 euro was worth 80p in June 2008).
The main thing we will remember was how clean and spotless everything was. There was not a speck of dust anywhere – even in places like on top of the door architraves (sad – but we checked).
The other memories are of excellent and varied breakfasts, with real tablecloths and a proper cup of tea (various flavours); the most helpful, thoughtful and friendly hosts (including Luca’s parents); and the modern bedroom and bathroom fittings, with a high quality of tiling and standard of finish.
Each ensuite shower room has a good hairdryer so, ladies, no need to take your own! The washbasins are large and for those who like a bath or have a number of small children to deal with there is a large fully equipped bathroom on each floor – shared by only 5 bedrooms which practically ensures exclusive access.
Even the map of the town which was given to us by Luca had the recommended restaurants etc marked and these did not disappoint. (Our particular favourite was La Chiesina, one set in an old Anglican church a few streets away).

TO SUM UP:-

What it HAS got:-
Modern, very clean fittings.
High standard of finish.
Excellent hosts.
Good and varied breakfasts.
Fridge and safe in rooms included.

What it HASN’T got:-
Dirt.
Gardens to stroll through. (There is a small backyard which has been tastefully set up with cane seats and lots of flowers under a shaded cover).
Parking space. (There is room at the front to load and unload and a garage a few streets away).
Shaver sockets in bathrooms. (Aren’t they all battery driven now?).
Sea views.

THE TRANSFER
Those of you who panic at the thought of having to arrange a transfer from the airport to the hotel (& vice versa) can relax. It couldn’t be easier (or cheaper!). Nevertheless, a step by step guide for the doubters follows:-
1. After getting your bags and leaving the baggage reclaim area, enter the main hall.
2. Go to the far right to the Information desk.
3. Ask (in English, Italian or just about any other language) for a ticket/two tickets etc to Viareggio. (€2.80 each - £2.25 – in June 2008).
4. Retrace your steps and leave the building by the main arrivals door. The bus (a blue coach with ‘LAZZI’ and/or ‘VAI BUS’ and/or ‘CLAP’ on the side) leaves from beyond the small parking area, from a stop which is almost directly opposite the main door. (You will have to trundle your bags all of 50 yards, on paths through the parking area).
5. As at June 2008, buses leave the airport at 18 minutes past the hour from 0618 to 2018, with extras at 0748, 1248, 1348 and 1448. They are not quite up to touring standard but are not far short of it and are air conditioned with comfortable upholstered seats with plenty of leg room. Ours only had 6 or 8 people on it.
6. On arriving at the bus, lift one of the loading doors at the side (mind your head!) and slide your bags underneath. Don’t expect the driver to get out and do it for you and remember to shut the door when you have finished.
7. Get on the bus, validate your ticket(s) by pushing them into the machine, then sit back, relax and enjoy the view. The journey takes just under the hour, which gives you plenty of time to congratulate yourselves on having saved a fortune. (Taxi fares were quoted as between €80 to €120 for the one way trip!).
8. On entering Viareggio, there are several wayside stops but you want the main bus station in Piazza D’Azeglio. It is obvious when you get there.
9. Leave the square to the right and walk along the main road, which is in front of you as you get off the bus. Ignore the first two streets (Zanardelli and G.Verdi) and when you pass the Hotel Eden turn right into Via San Martino. The Hotel Tirrenia is 50 yards up on the right. From bus station to hotel takes barely 5 minutes with only two small side roads to cross but if you cannot face pulling your cases there are (white) taxis right alongside the bus station.
10. When going home, reverse the above having bought your tickets at the office in the bus station.

LOCAL TRANSPORT
A real surprise were the buses to Lucca, Pisa etc. These were not at all crowded – quite the reverse – and were very reasonably priced and of near touring standard. The bus station (see above) is very convenient for the hotel and all timetables are readily available from the ticket office – or see Luca, who is a mine of information and advice.
The railway station is less convenient, being a 15 minute walk away, but again we were impressed by the quality and price when we went by train e.g. to Montecatine Terme.

THE RESORT
Viareggio itself must have one of the longest privately partitioned off beaches in Europe but there is a small public beach which, not surprisingly, gets crowded. You can walk for miles along the very wide and well maintained promenade which is just inland but you feel constrained from strolling along the water’s edge.
Along the promenade are many restaurants, pizzerias, gelaterias, bars etc and some upmarket shops though there is little in the town of interest. Think of it as a beach resort with good access to other places of interest.

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST
PISA. There is more to Pisa than the famous Tower/Baptistry/Cathedral/Cemetery – all of which are conveniently located within a small area – but there isn’t much more. Other sights of interest are Piazza/Palazzo dei Cavalieri (a short walk from the famous area) and the jewel of Santa Maria della Spina (on the river bank).
The same bus you got from the airport stops right outside the main tourist area but the railway station is on the opposite side of the town.
LUCCA. It is a pleasant day out to this ancient capital which has a very wide, tree shaded promenade along the top of the walls, which stretch to 4kms if you go all the way round.
There is also a spectacular ‘wedding cake’ fronted cathedral but not a lot else. There are frequent buses from Viareggio to Lucca which has many onward connections to many other places including Montecatine Terme. Excellent maps are available free from the Tourist Information Centre.
MONTECATINE TERME. An upmarket spa town with the world’s oldest funicular railway (on the hour and half past – high class toilet) giving access to Montecatine Alto, where there are good views and a selection of eating places in the main square. Look for the one with access through to the garden terrace with spectacular views. Train from Viareggio to Montecatine Centro at 0911 & 1011 (for Florence) and buses via Lucca. Trains back from Montacatini Centro at 5 past the hour. Only €4 per person each way. Again, excellent maps from TIC.
FLORENCE/FIRENZE. It is possible to ‘do’ Florence by train at 0911 and 1011 but it is the best part of 2 hours each way which considerably eats into the time available. Best come back to Italy another year. Now if only Luca would move his hotel!

This beautiful hotel is in a side street, just off the main beach thoroughfare. This famous resort has many hotels, but you should stay in this one. It is owned and run by a local family who take great pride in it's history, tasteful restoration and day to day running.

We arrived in the rain. Parking outside in the street may be limited, but the owner allowed us to use his garage, as my husband had a cycle in the back (obviously not everyone could do this!). The check-in system works very quickly, and soon were were entering the small lift that goes to all floors. Our bedroom was modern, beautifully furnished and decorated, and spotlessly clean. The bathroom quiet small, but also clean. At the rear of the hotel is a beautiful brightly coloured area for sitting on a hot day. Unfortunately we did'nt have one of those. There is free internet access, we were looking at local weather forcasts.

Breakfast is of a very high standard. Pastries, including local lemon cake, fresh fruit, cooked meats and cheeses, as well as all the usual options are set out to tempt you.

Just a thirty second walk, and you are on to the main beach road, resplendant with art deco/liberty style buildings, designer shops, restaurants and cafes. The vast majority of the beach is owned by cafes along the front, and you have to pay to enter their serviced beach areas. Quite a shock for us Brits!

This hotel is a good base for Tuscan sight seeing trips, with Lucca, Florence and Pisa just a short drive away.

We have just returned from a lovely week at the Hotel Tirrenia. We couldn't have wished for a better place to be based for either wandering around Viareggio or exploring Tuscany, of which we did plenty. Luca, the owner was extremely helpful, provided us with train timetables, maps etc. His parents were also delightful people. The whole hotel was very tastefully decorated and spotless. We loved the breakfast. The fresh fruit was delicious, as was the scrambled egg. Also provided meats, cheese, bread etc. It was nice to stay in a small hotel which had the personal touch.