As you wind your way up from Chur towards Klosters and Davos-- you might be in a car or on one of special Swiss red alpine trains. Klosters is embraced in a widening of alpine meadow-- great for skiing, summer hiking, or a brisk and burnished autumn refuge. Smaller than Davos--and both simpler and more refined in a way--there at the side of the road sits the lovely Walserhof. The front of the hotel gets the passing traffice for sure-- but at night it is deliciously quiet-- and the velvet sky is studded with stars that look like they escaped from the finest Geneva jeweler. The Walserhof style demonstrates the epitome of refined alpine elegance in a cosy traditional setting. The restaurant is one of the best in Switzerland-- quintessentially Swiss-- with all the refinements of Swiss French, German, and Italian influence-- but not forgetting the local cantonal Grison influence. The cellar is incredible-- One would be foolish NOT to have help with the wines-- since so many wonderful Swiss wines are not exported. The cheese cart is incredible-- (this is Switzerland after all!) The hosts always gracious, and welcoming-- Oh! Did I mention I've been there many times over a number of years-- the quality never falters, and the gracious service is never "canned." The true sophistication of this place is not pretentious or phoney. This is not a hotel with anything "cute-sie" or canned-- also not a hotel with all sorts of amenities like a pool. I would also say it's not particulary a great hotel for children--The setting is the amenity-- I haven't been there yet in the winter or spring-- only summer and fall-- But I intend to go! Yes-- royalty has stayed at the Walserhof. But, hey, my last name means king-- and I suspect they treat everyone like royalty at the Walserhof-- royalty on retreat in Swiss bliss.