We reached Mussoorie and got off at the wrong end of town to reach Hotel Filigree. We should have known better and got off at the Kulri Bazar, but from the Library Square, there was no way except to hire 2 cycle rickshaws to transport us. The 15-minute ride to Filigree foreshadowed our expereince of Mussoorie-- quiet, panoramic, and still ensconced in a gentler time.
The Filigree is a smallish hotel by plainsmen's standards, but the rooms were roomier than my own apartment's. Good, comfortable amenities, not to much flash (thankfully!), and running hot water even in the summer (you'll need to switch on the water heater or geyser 10 min before your shower).
The staff is extraordinarily courteous, and the management takes personal interest: mainly two brothers in their 30s, or maybe 40s, who exemplify the courtesy, savoir-faire and charm of a Raj heritage together with the irreverence and fun-loving mood of the current generation. They bore our 6-year old's tantrum in the restaurant with a tolerant smile, and pacified the other guests well in time.
The restaurant is cosy, and the food is, well, excellent. However, there's no option for ordering local cuisine, so you'll be eating the same food as can be found in the better restaurants of North India.
The skating rink is about a 100 metres away, but a more attractive walk is to the cemetry. You'll need to ask permission from the pastor of a nearby church (300 m in Kulri Bazar)to get the gates unlocked. The most interesting thing about the hotel thing is its location. Its a 5-minute walk to the hubbub of Mall Road to one side and Kulri Bazar to the other, but the hotel itself is in an extremely quiet and thinly populated enclave on Camel's Back Road.
I'd say the best place in
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC