Just got back from Turkey, which, in my opinion is up there with France and Italy as a "must visit" for even the most pedestrian traveler. And after only Istanbul, I would say Cappadocia is a MUST see for anyone and everyone who wants to have an experience that will blow your mind. (I was about to say it was completely unique, but in fact, it is reminiscent of Bryce Canyon in Utah, which is also amazing, only Cappadocia is about 5 times cooler.)
Having got that off my chest... Esbelli Evi is absolutely wonderful and charming as hell. Partly because it is a cave hotel (the first in Cap, but now there are dozens), and gorgeous, tasteful, classy, and clean, but in equal measure because the staff, led by owner Suha Ersoz, are WONDERFUL. To say they are "accommodating" is a vast understatement. They are all attractive, polite, very well-educated, charming, witty, and yes, they will also carry your luggage and serve you coffee. As a single woman travelling alone, I was not looking forward to renting a car and travelling by myself to the sites (incredible as they are). When I arrived my first day, with only the vaguest idea of what my plans would be, Suha set me down, pulled out maps and suggested about 10 things I could do, and offered to set them up for me, which he did in about 5 seconds with a flick of his cell phone (all the phone numbers in Central Anatolia are apparently on his speed dial). He was also very candid about the "worth it" hikes and sites, and those that were less worth it.
Then he offered to take me on a hike that very afternoon to the Red Valley (UNBELIEVABLE!). So after he was done for the day, we took a 2 hour hike in the Valley, and then, when he realized I had no plans for dinner, he took me to a cool little hotel restaurant (Dimrit Cafe) where it was all delivered with nods and hand waves. (one might suspect it was because I was, in fact, a single woman alone but I know he did this with others...). I also went to Ziggy's one night and that was also FANTASTIC food.
By the way, it is true that Suha is not a big smiler (someone said that in another review) but I found it is because he has that Woody Allen sensibility - very dry and wry, with a very good sense of humor and it is a delight to make him laugh. The story of the creation of the hotel is fascinating - he has systematically bought up 12-13 old houses and keeps adding them on and the place (which is deceptively small from the entrance) is actually expansive. The architecture (as admittedly all the cave hotels) is unbelievable and very well-done. Breakfast was the best I had in Turkey (hot foods are made to order and free).
One other story about their accommodating reflexes: on my last day I was exhausted from the hiking and really just dreamed of laying by a pool and reading the hot afternoon away. Esbelli, like most cave hotels, does not have a pool (which I kept trying to convince Suha he should build), so Suha drove me to a luxury hotel where I paid 20 lira (about $15) to use their facilities (a hamburger lunch was included). Ramazan then came and picked me up later in the afternoon! Perfect! What other hotel in the world would provide that service?
Also, two changes from other reviews I read: the 2 clothes washing machines that another traveler said were free may no longer be so - I saw a note posted that said they were 5 euros to use. Also, someone said they don't have TVs but I had a lovely flat screen in my room (see pictures).
Oh by the way... one late afternoon I took a walk by myself exploring the "neighborhood" behind Esbellie Evi, and there are incredible caves and even a cave painting right behind his hotel! It's a short little adventure that was a lot of fun because I found it by myself. If you have spare time before your dinner or perhaps in the morning before breakfast, I recommend wandering back there. About 20 minutes worth of exploring and great views from many vistas.
GO to Cappadocia. You will have that traveller experience we all seek of complete wonder and awe.










Value
Rooms






