This is one place where you don’t just get a room, you get a whole house, great food, and a real sense of being one with the land and the creatures that inhabit it. When at Singita, forget the image of roughing it on safari, and think “The Ritz” with animals.
Singita has been rated by several polls as the best hotel/resort in the world. I can’t verify that, because there are many places I haven’t stayed, but I can say that my wife and I agree that this was the crowning jewel of our best holiday ever.
We travelled individually, and coming from Sun City, flew SA Airways from Johannesburg to Skukuza Aiport at Kruger National Park. We were greeted and escorted to the resort’s own shuttle aircraft that made the last leg of the trip to the resort in ten minutes. It is also possible to arrive by road.
Singita has two linked resorts in the Sabi Sand Private Reserve, which is just west of Kruger. We were staying at the Boulders Resort, which is limited to just 18 guests. The nearby Singita Ebony Resort was similar in size, but with a different theme. We visited the Ebony lodge, but didn’t see any of the sleeping accommodations there.
Upon arrival, one’s first view of Boulders is the thatched-roof main lodge, with its cascading pools. The lodge is the center of meals and activities, but the sleeping accommodations are nine individual rondovals (circular houses built around a central supporting pole). Each rondoval has a small foyer, leading into a comfortably-furnished living room with huge glass windows that overlooked the veldt. On the other side of the room was a huge stone fireplace.
Walking past the fireplace, we entered the bedroom, with its comfortable canopy bed. Again, there were floor-to-ceiling windows, really a glass wall. We never closed the shades, as it was wonderful to awake in the dim light before sunrise, watching the animals forage. Each of our four mornings, the same giraffe would be munching on acacia trees just 120 metres from our window; on the last day, we had our Land Rover driver take us out to see him up close.
Beyond the bedroom was a huge bathroom with modern fixtures. We had a tub, a walk-in shower, a gleaming double-basin sink, and toilet closet. The bathroom opened onto the large terrace, which had an outdoor shower (although it was secluded from the path and main lodge, it took us a couple of days to get up the nerve to use it) and our own private plunge pool. The terrace overlooked the Sand River. About 15 feet down was some large animal, maybe a hippo, that we could only hear splashing and grunting at night.
Our rondoval was the closest to the lodge. Each morning we would get a wake-up call on the doorbell, about 5:30 a.m. 45 minutes later, an guide with rifle would come and escort us up the path to the lodge, about 30 metres away. The guides stressed that we should not venture outside alone after dark, because the area isn’t fenced. One evening, we saw a pride of lions walking down the path to the lodge. Another day, we arrived back at our rondoval to find that an elephant had pulled down part of a tree just outside of our window.
After some coffee and pastries, just as the sun was coming up, we would be on a Land Rover, starting the morning game drive. The wildlife began to venture out for water at first light, but sought out shade and inactivity as the morning became warmer. There are windows of viewing opportunity in the early morning, and again just before sundown, and the two scheduled game drives take advantage.
The Land Rovers at Singita are both open-sided and without roofs – great for photography. At first, it was quite chilly, but we would layer up and shed as the sun rose. We also had pants and vests with zip-off legs and sleeves. Although we had stocked up with safari wear, it really wasn’t necessary, as most guests just wore casual clothing. However, a hat to protect from the sun is a must.
Over four days, we had eight game drives. For the first three days, we went out with the same two couples. On the last day, the others had gone, so we had the game drives to ourselves. The Land Rovers have three tiered rows of seats behind the driver, the back tier being the highest, but also the bumpiest. Each couple had one row, which we rotated, so everyone always had a good view. By the end of the first day, we had seen the “big five” species. An advantage to the more exclusive private reserves is that there would be no crowds of vehicles around the interesting sights.
As my screen name implies, I am interested in photography. On the drives, I mostly used a full-frame SLR with a 100-400mm f4.5 zoom lens. It really helps to have a longer lense for tighter shots, as it isn’t always possible to get right up to the action. Because larger aperture is helpful in the dimmer light at sunup and sundown, and in creating bokah, I now have a 400mm f2.8 that I’d like to try, but traveling on small planes with a 13-pound lense may be problematic. But, if you do go, try to buy or borrow a camera with good telephoto capabilities. A P&S camera is fine for around camp.
After 2-3 hours of morning game drive, we would return to breakfast on the lodge terrace. It was buffet style, with entrée cooked to order, and was delicious, especially the fresh fruits. Even breakfast was served on china with silverware. After breakfast, we would have 3-4 hours of free time for swimming, optional game walks, a nap, a late lunch, mid-afternoon tea, or as I did, sending e-mail and digital photos back home. The lodge did have a telephone in each room, and I was able to access dial-up Internet.
Each evening game drive started about 3:30 p.m. After a few hours, it would be dark, and we would stop somewhere in the bush for “sundowners”, cocktails and hors d’oeuvers served on the bonnet (hood) of the Land Rover. Back at the lodge, we would freshen up for more cocktails and dinner, or, one evening, for an optional night game drive, a spotlight revealing clusters of prey huddled together nervously. Sometimes the silence would be broken by a distant animal scream.
Dinner was served formally, but dress was smart casual. Each of the first three nights, the dinner was rotated to a different location: the lodge terrace, the indoor dining room, and the boma. A boma is an outdoor area encircled by a fence of tree stocks. This permitted a fire and roasting of meat. Afterwards, there was singing and dancing by the staff and locals.
The meals were all delicious. The lodge maintains its own wine cellar. The self-serve lodge bar was open all day, and cocktails and house wines were free, but cellar vintages were extra cost. Beverages from the minibar in the room were included in the daily rate. There was a free tasting party in the cellar the first evening.
Words aren’t sufficient to describe the Singita experience. The facilities are spectacular, the staff is dedicated, the food is delicious, and the game drives are at once both exciting and relaxing. We highly recommend all aspects of Singita. At almost $2000 a night, it is expensive, but you will not be disappointed.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC