We just stayed at Balamku (for my 30th birthday) for five nights and had a great time there and exploring Mahajual. There are two restaurants near Balamku, both run by Dutch couples. One, Travel Inn, has fantastic ambiance and good (non-Mexican) fare. The crowd is often from Balamku, so if you stay there it is a good place to meet your neighbors.
The second restaurant close by is at Maya Luna. Our meal there was one of the best meals I have had in a very long time. The
"chef" is actually a journalist, but I would never have guessed he wasn't classically trained given the extremely high quality of the food. Presentation was also great.
In town, there are a number of choices. For the best empanadas, go to Marea Alta. The meat, cheese, potato, and mushroom empanadas are something like $1 US each and are unexpecedly good. All the other places we tried in town (not on the beach) were also very good. There's one place (it's orange and on the left if you're driving south) with an especially good menu; it fills up with soccer fans on game nights since there's a tv. The places on the beach are ok -- a little overpriced.
By far, our best experience eating in Mahajual was at El Restaurante Paraiso. It's a little place, probably the first you see on your way into town from the north. It's a green building with a white and red hand-painted sign and ceramic parrots hung under the palapa roof. Owners Reggie ("Pancho Pantera") and Amalia are some of the most welcoming people we encountered during our trip. We ended up going there three times during our stay at Balamku. The first time, the good natured Pancho talked with us the whole time -- a delight. He made us a very good fish fajita dish, and ran across the street (twice) to get more beer since his inventory was low. The second time, we just stopped in for a beer and to chat (he still had Victorias on hand for us). And the third time I had a birthday lunch there. Alongside some of the best pickled peppers and green salsa in the yucatan, they served us a caldo (soup) de pollo (chicken), a whole red snapper, and a chicken dish. The food was so good, and the proprieters have so much heart that I wish I'd eaten there every day. Please, if you go to Mahajual, stop in and enjoy this place.
Another noteworthy stop is Aroma, which is on the northern end of town. Run by an Italian owner, it has the best coffee I've had outside of Europe, and the panini I tried was unbeatable. It also has a good cocktail menu; the place feels "hip" and you hear a lot of languages spoken there.
During our stay we were fascinated by the rate at which Mahajual is rebuilding. There is still a lot of destruction around, but it's offset by the relaxed environment and the "off-the-beaten-track" feeling one gets there. The people living there seem happy to see tourists around and are eager to please. I fear that in a few years it will again be overrun by cruise ship passengers, but for now it's a real Mexican experience.








