Baganara Island is a true gem, which is no small accomplishment given that Guyana generally lacks basic tourist infrastructure common in other developing countries. My girlfriend and I spent week on the island in January and it was a lovely experience. The grounds are beautiful and secluded, the rooms are spacious and clean, and the staff is exceptionally attentive.

The resort is located on an island in the middle of the Essequibo River, approximately 50 miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean. To get there, you need to drive from Georgetown to Partica, then take an hour or so boat ride up the Essequibo River just past Bartica. Make sure to book through Evergreen Adventures (they own the island) who will take care of all the logistics for you. Other operators may triple the cost of your trip if you book through them, so make sure to book through Evergreen (more on this below). You can also arrive by plane, as the Island is frequently a stop on tourist flights to Kaiteur Falls.

Once you arrive - whether by boat or plane - you are greeted with a glass of a beverage. It's a small touch of thoughtful hospitality that reflects how you will be treated during your stay. As you step out of the launch, you'll walk towards the main house where the first floor is completely open and has no windows or doors. All the meals are served here buffet style, which usually entail a mix of typical guyanese cuisine (satay, curries, jerk...even pepperpot, they take requests). Incidentally, the food is great and they will tailor the menu to dietary preferences or limitations. Just ask.

In the main house, there are many comfortable chairs, couches, and hammocks where you can lounge and enjoy the breeze off the river, as well as a billiards and ping pong table. They have a few board games - such as scrabble - to help pass the time when the rain comes as well.

In terms of activities, you have plenty of options. Many folks swim in the river (they maintain a nice beach at the resort) or you can take out a kayak and explore around the island and the nearby inlets - or "creeks" as the locals call them. For me, kayaking was one of the highlights of my stay. During one morning kayak trip, I kayaked a ways into the jungle and saw a group of howler monkyes overhead. It was a unique experience I won't soon forget. In the dry season, I'm told you can also hike around the island as well.

The resort staff will also organize outings for you as well. Note, you do pay extra for these excursions, but they are well worth it. We went to Marshall Falls, and loved it. The dusk trip to Parrot Island was also an interesting experience, if you're not into birdwatching but want to get a taste. If you are a birdwatcher - which I'm not - they have guides on staff that can take you on more specialized outings see exotic and rare species. They also organized a day trip to Bartica (there isn't a lot to see, but they do have an ATM and it's the only town nearby) and the Saxacali preserve for us as well. We also went to Kaiteur Falls directly from Baganara (we did pay an extra "diversion fee" though as the plane went out of it's way to pick us up).

Truth be told though, one of the most attractive features of Baganara is that it is a great place to do nothing and decompress. We spent extended periods of time lounging in the main area - largely because of the Cashew Rains - but nonetheless, really enjoyed our stay. Just make sure to bring a couple of good books to help pass the time.

Baganara is an island in the middle of the jungle - literally. Accordingly, the experience can be a bit rustic and shouldn't be viewed as a typical "resort" experience. It's not a typical all-inclusive resort. There is no electricity available during the day - though generators run at night. It is incredibly humid so everything becomes damp. And it's probably a good idea to put your shoes by the door of your room in the afternoon, otherwise, your room might be visited by some little frogs (though unassuming and cute). If you can get beyond these slight inconveniences - many of which are to be expected considering that you'll be staying in the middle of a rainforest - you'll manage to have a great time.

Finally, the people who work at the resort genuinely care that you enjoy your stay, and go to great lengths to make your stay welcoming. Their hospitality is unsurpassed. Whether it's to prepare vegetarian/non-dairy cuisine or to organize tailored trips to some of the surrounding sites, they make sure to do the little things to make your stay more enjoyable.

I'm not sure when I'll be in that part of Guyana - or the world - again. But if I find myself with time spare again on the Essequibo River, there's only one place I'll stay, and that's Baganara.

As an epilogue - make sure to stay away from Frank Singh and his company "Rainforest Tours." He is not trustworthy and a thief. We arranged a tour with him in advance, and within five minutes of him running my credit card, he changed terms of the trip of us. He then refused to give us a full refund. Do yourself a favor, stay away from Frank Singh. Try Evergreen instead, especially if you plan to stay at Baganara. Wilderness Explorers, another tour company, received good reviews in guidebooks we read and a travel companion of ours had a good experience with them in a trip to Kaiteur Falls as well.

Arrive by speedboat, leave by private plane - wow. A big old house on a private island in the middle of a river, this place is extremely relaxing.
The staff were unobtrusive yet very friendly and helpful. Particularly Armando the barman. Our host was very helpful in booking tours and generally telling us about life in Guyana. It was great to get out to Baganara after the madness of Georgetown.
A perfect place to relax and watch the river flow by. Visit, you won't be disappointed!

Where do I begin? Everything about this place was wonderful. The speedboat ride to the island was frightening, but was worth it once we reached the island. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by the host (Ricardo) and served pine tarts and lemonade while he introduced us to himself and explained the history of the island. The entire staff was very friendly to my husband and I from the minute we arrived, until the minute we departed.
The rooms are very comfortable and clean. I must warn you that the generators only run from the evening till the morning so you are without electricity throughout the day. This didn't impose on us though because we just adjusted to it by charging our batteries etc. during the evening or nighttime.
The meals are excellent! The chef (Troy) cooks an array of meals that includes Chinese, American, and definitely Guyanese dishes. There are plenty of water activities, games, tours, or even hammocks to lounge around in if you just want to relax. My husband lives in Guyana so this was my 7th time in the country, but my first to any of the Guyanese resorts. Anyone who has been to Guyana knows the mosquito situation but I swear that Baganara island has none!
Although this trip was very romantic for us, there was a family of 5 on the island who seemed to be having a wonderful time. We were lucky enough to have the island to ourselves for one night because a group of 30 who was expected were delayed for a day in the States due to weather.
All in all I highly recommend this trip for couples, families, and groups. I personally will be back at Baganara Island for New Years 2007.

i spent two nites at this wonderful resort, it was the most peaceful and relaxing moment. The staff was excellent, they went beyond the call of duty to make my stay memorable. The chef, oh boy! he seduces you with all the delicious delacies. I plan to visit again soon, if you are looking for a romantic getaway, honeymoon or just want to be alone, then you definately want to visit this resort!!!!!!