I stayed at Capo Faro with a friend for 4 nights during the first half of September. The resort is a 10 minute drive from the harbour/town, and is surrounded by vineyards supplying the local desert wine, which is available in the restaurant and bar. The local bus service connects the resort and harbour with its boat and hydrofoil service, sightseeing boats, some restaurants and shops. Taxis can be arranged at reception and cost 15 Euros into town.
Our room (no 8) was basic but neat with white-washed beams, and we had to stand on tip-toe to catch a glimpse of the sea out of the window. Small but nice shower room, unremarkable toiletries, no boxes of tissues provided during our stay. Guests in another room also remarked on this puzzling omission. Plug-in mozzie tablets are supplied. There is a small sitting area outside, with room for two folding chairs and a small table. No mobile phone signal in the room, which for me was perfect, for my friend not so much.
The restaurant/bar and pool area are gorgeous, both during the day and evening (mozzie protection required at night). The pool is probably a bit short for serious swimmers, but is great for cooling off, and perfectly adequate for my doggie paddle.
Guests around the pool were mostly young couples. No children were in evidence.
The linen-clad staff are friendly, helpful, attractive, and most speak English. Particular thanks go to the charming Barbara for being a mine of information on local restaurants.
Breakfast is a buffet affair with muesli, bran, corn flakes, croissant, white and wholegrain bread, organic jam, delicious ripe fruit, hard and soft cheese, salami and ham, also smoked salmon. Good coffee, and a request for tea produced a selection of herbal tea bags, English breakfast tea, orange pekoe and Earl Grey. Freshly squeezed orange juice was surprisingly watery. Pineapple juice was also provided, as well as still and sparkling mineral water.
The restaurant opens for breakfast at 8 am, and room service starts at the same time. This leaves those of us who need a cup of tea when they get up at 6 am desperately in need of a caffeine fix for a couple of hours. A request for a kettle and tea bags was met with a firm no. Equally, an iron apparently can't be provided for suitcase-crumpled clothes.
Lunch is available in the restaurant and by the pool. Dinner is romantic, with wind lanterns, soft music and a menu of mostly seafood based dishes. starters change daily depending on what has been caught that day. Nice wines and terrific cocktails. Loved the food - compliments to the chef, who comes from near Naples.
Poolside tables provide a fabulous view of Stromboli and the sea. We would have loved steps down to the sea and a bit of a swimming platform.
We were recommended a restaurant called Porto Bello, overlooking the small harbour. My friend loved his fritto misto and proclaimed it every bit as good as the one he had the evening before at Capo Faro, but I was disappointed with my spaghetti vongole in bianco, which would have benefited greatly from some garlic, parsley or olive oil.
We asked the waitress to organize us a cab back to the resort. Eventually, up turned a young man in a souped-up rust bucket, who was clearly no taxi driver, but most likely the boyfriend/husband/brother of the waitress. Lulled into naive tourist mode by the consumption of some local white wine, and the fact that the restaurant was recommended at the resort, we failed to ask how much the ride was going to cost, and ended up paying twice the usual rate charged by the much more comfortable taxis. Not overly tragic, but it would have been just as quick to take the bus, and would have saved us feeling like stupid tourists. London taxi touts refer to gullible tourists as "haddocks". No idea what the Italian equivalent is, but that evening we were it.
I'm glad I made the hike to Salina, but won't be going back. There are similar destinations in the Med which are easier to reach, and are possibly better value for money. Perfect as part of a Sicilian honeymoon for young couples wrapped up in each other.
- Capofaro Malvasia Hotel
- Capofaro Malvasia Resort
