La Mission has traditional Mexican food that is fresh, extremely good, and very well priced. The guacamole is outstanding as is the Lobster. They have 2 locations on Cozumel (one near the airport that is complete with a zoo) and one just off the main strip near the cruise ship docks. Any cab driver can take you there for only a few dollars. It’s a serious "can’t miss" to some, and it is considered by others to be a bit on the touristy side.
One of the most popular stops in Cozumel is Coconuts Bar and Restaurant on a cliff on the Wild-side. The bar is circular and open to the ocean or forest.. Coconuts gets its power from the sun and is only open during the daytime. It is very laid back. There are lounging dogs, wild birds in a large enclosure, and even chickens wandering past. People bring T-shirts and other items to sign and hang on the ceiling. There is 70's-80's American music. The staff is quite friendly. They have excellent Margaritas, fish tacos and shrimp tacos. Check out the books of photos of previous visitors and their coconuts. The grilled fish sandwich is excellent.
A favorite is La Choza, just South of the square a couple blocks, easily walkable. Fabulous Mexican food, the beef fajitas are the best on the planet! A great bar like atmosphere, always hopping, but also suitable for a family. Any cab can take you there or you can walk, it's right in downtown. The locals eat here, and for good reason! The noodle soup is very good.
Also recommended for seafood is El Capitan de Navagante, also a couple blocks north of the square, just down the road from La Choza. If you're looking for fresh native seafood this is a great place. The always have fresh fish specials, lobster, etc. and it is fabulous. A little more expensive, maybe for a date night without the kids. Seating is pretty limited, only room for about 50 in the place, but a real treat! The lobster thermidor is very good when it is good. Other times it is just average.
Others that have come highly recommended include Casa Denis, right on the edge of the town square, Panchos Backyard inside LosSinco Soles retail shops right on the waterfront, and Los Palmeras, also right on the waterfront.
Panchos Backyard is great. Nice environment and very friendly staff.
Prima is an Italian restaurant with the best in local seafood. The service is excellent and food is consistently good. It is off the main street, but all the cabbies can find it. Once you have found it, you can easily walk there from anywhere downtown. Try the lobster tail. It’s large and succulent. If you like it hot and spicy, try the Lobster Fra Diablo…make sure you have plenty of water/beer to wash it down with. The lobster alfredo is good as well. Compared to the rest of the island, it is expensive but a great experience.
If you want decent southern Italian or fresh pizza, try Guido's located right along the main drag near the plaza. Look for the solid wood door with their sign hanging directly over it. Go thru the 1st dining area & into their outdoor courtyard for seating if you want romantic or want to impress your party. Not a whole lot of Italian dishes on the menu, but it's the best on the island. A fairly decent wine list includes Italian & French wines. Their pizzas are made to order and baked in a wood-burning oven just like they do it in Italy.
Rockin' Java is a great place for breakfast and lunch. Everything is so fresh and wonderfully prepared. You really can’t go wrong with anything you order. Another locals favorite. Leave your change in the Cozumel Animal Shelter donation box by the door.
Just down the street is Jeannie's Waffle House. It is another Cozumel tradition. Since they moved to the waterfront, there is always a wonderful breeze and people tend to linger over yet another cup of coffee. They are known for their waffles, but everything is very good. A favorite morning spot.
If you’re missing home or the game, stop by Kelley’s. Gene Kelley (yep, that’s his real name) is the owner and is always there. There is usually a game on and the beers are always flowing. It’s a very popular place with the Americans who live there. The food is okay, but people really go there for the socializing. All the U.S .barflies hang out there at some point. There is a pool table inside and TV’s at the bar. Located on 10th between 1st and Rosado Salas. Live bands are usually there on the weekend.
La Casa de Morena A favorite. The pescado a la Vera Cruz is fantastic. They offer covered and garden seating. The coconut shrimp is also very good. But be very careful with their salsa - it’s made with habaneros. They take credit cards. Located on 10th between 3rd and 5th.
Manati's- Read good things about this place here and other boards. It is a delightful old and quaint building. The meal was forgettable. Ordered the calamari “a la Diablo” and the fish filet “a la Diablo”. The Diablo was apparently Bull’s Eye BBQ sauce. The calamari was overcooked although I will be the first to admit calamari is very difficult to cook. It was meal and not much more. Denise was disappointed in her fish and wouldn’t go back for it.
However, the coup de grace at Manati's for was when the check arrived. They added an IVA tax to the price and then left a space for the tip. I’ve been going to Coz long enough to know that any taxes are included IN the price of the menu. I questioned the waitress about this in my best Spanish (which isn’t good). She explained it was the IVA tax. I switched to English when I told her that I knew there was no tax, she switched from English to Spanish and then said it was a tip for the kitchen staff. Basically, we felt like they were trying to rip us off. As we finished our cocktails, we reflected back to a comment Denise made to the owner about this being our “first time here”. I guess he thought we were green gringos to the reality of the IVA. We won’t be going back.
Otates. This is an outdoor place with a lot of interesting food on the menu. (You just have to go there.) Mostly locals were eating there, but there were a couple of tables of ex-pats. Service was excellent. This is probably a bit bigger than a cocina economica. The food isn’t fancy by any stretch of the imagination, but it was good and inexpensive. We had the veggie burritos, (OK and maybe a bit skimpy on the veggies), and the gringas which were very good.
Try a bowl of pozole at Otates. We had never heard of it before, but the next table had it and we asked the gentleman what he was eating. The waiter saw this and asked us if we wanted a bowl. It was excellent! It could be a meal in itself. The waiter will bring you a platter of cabbage and radishes. Just dump it in your soup for even more flavor. Two beers and the above: $13. (From Wikipedia: “from Spanish pozole, from Nahuatl potzolli; variant spellings: posole, posolé, pozolé, pozolli, posol) is a traditional pre-Columbian soup or stew made from hominy, with pork (or other meat), chile, and other seasonings and garnish, such as cabbage, lettuce, oregano, cilantro, avocado, radish, lime juice, etc. There are a number of variations on pozole, including blanco (white or clear), verde (green), de frijol (with beans), and elopozole.”
No longer open as of 11/3/07: Sabor de Llena-closed, La Cocina Italiana-closed, La Lobsteria-closed.
Le Chef-highly recommended by a few locals. At the intersection of Calle 5 and Avenida 5 (on the crossroad where Aldora and McDonald’s are located). Try the ravioli ($7?) and the chicken Caesar pizza ($8?). The raviolo was excellent and the pizza put Guido’s pizza to shame! The entrée salad was also very good. New Age music played in the background (XM Chill?)

