Trattoria in Campieo, Santa Croce 24, 30100 Venezia, http://www.ristoranteincampieo.com. San Toma vaporetto stop. Located in a small campo just west of Scuola Grande di San Rocco and Campo San Pantalon. It's kind of tricky to find, but look on a good map (Red Maps--Venice) and compare it to the one on the site. The food is carefully prepared and the owner and his staff are molto gentile. When I arrived for the second time (a few days apart) the waiter recognized me, greeted me like an old friend, and directed his helper to immediately bring me a small (and absolutely delicious) Bellini on the house, before I'd even had a chance to review the menu again. The owner arrived shortly thereafter and also recognized me, and asked the waiter if he had properly welcomed me back with a drink—about which of course, the waiter was pleased to report in the affirmative. They were like two brothers making a fuss over me, and it was delightful.
In this quaint setting, in the initimate campo away from rumore (noise) and crowds, the staff and setting make you feel as if you are a local. Dinner was less than €15 each time (1 course) and satisfying. There is a small “coperto” (cover charge), as there is in almost all restaurants in Venice. (September 2007)
Dona Onesta, or Antica Trattoria di Venezia Dona Onesta, http://www.donaonesta.com. Directions: From the San Toma vaporetto stop, head down the narrow street in the direction everyone else is going in. It will come to a “T” – turn left. On the right you will pass an exquisite chocolates shop, and then a clothing shop. At the corner (clothing shop) is a small canal and delightful small stone bridge. Turn right (for now don’t cross the stone bridge) and head straight on for 100 feet, and you’ll be upon a small iron bridge on the left. Cross this bridge and directly on your left is Trattoria Dona Onesta.
The cream sauce on the pasta was the best I’ve ever had in my life, perfectly textured. The grilled verdura (vegetables, e.g., artichokes, eggplant, mushrooms, spinach) were done to perfection—mushrooms were the best I’ve ever had, and the artichokes had a delicate hint of vinegar--delicious. Grilled salmon was just a tiny bit too oily on the edges—but for that, this too would have been the best I’ve ever had. My friend had traditional liver and onions and enjoyed it very much, and her husband, pork chops, which he liked. I did not drink wine, but my friends thought the house white could have been better. The slice of Torta al cioccolato (chocolate cake) was rich and yummy. I am a budget traveler and it was among the best dining experiences I’ve had in Venice. First courses, approximately €10+; second, approximately €13+. (September 2007)
Ristorante S. (San) Stefano, Campo S. Stefano, già Morosini, 2776. From the Accademia bridge (San Marco side), it’s about five minute’s walk north. Once in the campo, keep heading straight and north. Almost to the end, it's on the right side, with the pink tablecloths. http://www.elmoro.com/ris/it/frame1.htm (scroll down on left for Restaurants, and click the second, S. Stefano). My last day in Venice I had a delicious lunch there recommended by the waiter, spaghetti with clams, about €12. The clams were just slightly salty and balanced out the pasta, which had an almost imperceptible sweet buttery taste, all, not too liberally flavored with chopped parsley. Freshly ground pepper by the attentive waiter, and the dish was perfect. The waiter, by the way, was very patient regarding my flummoxing, guidebook Italian and spoke excellent English; and didn’t give me a funny look when I asked for butter for the bread. It was clear that their philosophy is for you to have the most enjoyable meal possible, and the waiter even appeared with a tourist map (in English) towards the end of the lunch and invited me back for dinner. The Venetians put up with a lot from the thousands of tourists who descend on La Serenissima all year long, every day in and out, and sometimes they may put you off. You will not find this at all at Ristorante S. Stefano, where somehow, a spirit of generosity, reflected in the excellent food and service, continues. Their specialty is seafood. Do take the waiter's recommendation. I would have returned had I more time.
