Having dinner in a Fado restaurant is a uniquely Portugese experience. These restaurants provide good, hearty local food, along with musical entertainment in the form of "Fado", which is a form of Portugese folk music. The music is typically very sad, full of longing, broken hearts and lost love. Even if you don't understand the words, the music can be very moving and emotional, if performed by a talented singer, and is typically accompanied only by accoustic instruments. One of the most well-known Fado restaurants in Lisbon is Senhor Vinho. The food here is local Portugese fare, and is quite good, although Fado is the main attraction. The wine list features only Portugese wines. The performances are interspersed throughout the evening, in sets of 20 minutes or so, and breaks of 30 minutes or so in between each set. This is a nice format, as it leaves time for conversation and dinner, while providing some very nice musical entertainment. There is no stage per-se. The performers simply sit or stand in the center of the restaurant and do their thing. Whether you know anything about Fado or not, and whether you understand Portugese or not, this is a little piece of Portugese culture that you can only really see in Portugal, and it is an experience to remember.
Santo Antonio de Alfama (7 Beco de Sao Miguel) : Finding something other than a fado restaurant in the evening in the Alfama can be troublesome. Here is a superb find encountered in the area. The food (modern portuguese) is fresh, wonderful and quite affordable. The service is sweet as can be, and the decor is cool (the walls are covered with black and white cinema pictures). There is also a patio for nice summer evenings. A great place.
Parreirinha de Alfama ( Beco do Espirito Santo, 1, Alfama): This is a popular tiny bar/ restaurant in the historic Alfama district, which is lined with narrow cobblestoned curvy alleys. Most of the tables in this restaurant are filled with singing and applauding local residents, though it is also popular with tourists. Reservations are essential, even for weekday evenings. One should reserve for 8.45 pm, and plan to arrive at 8.30 to 9 pm, as one should order a meal and drinks, before the show begins. As the meal is delivered, the lights are dimmed, in order to enjoy the singing, and soulful music, with a series of singers and musicians, which starts shortly after 9 pm. The slightly higher meal prices reflect that there is no charge for the entire evening of authentic entertainment, which will last till after 12 pm. Once you are seated, plan on spending the entire evening, as it is an experience not to be found elsewhere. A real must for Lisboa- reserve prior to your trip!
