![High Altar- Igreja de Bom Jesus [© F. C. Zanger] High Altar- Igreja de Bom Jesus [© F. C. Zanger]](http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/0f/1a/30/c-documents-and-settings.jpg#S17766960)
The Igreja de Bom Jesus (Church of the Good Jesus) is one of the most remarkable examples of 18th (and early 19th) Century religious architecture anywhere-- if it weren't in little-visited northern Portugal, it would be far more famous. The church at the top of the mountain outside the city of Braga, completed in 1822 by Portuguese architect Carlos Amarante, replacing an earlier (15th Century) shrine at the same site. The fascination of Bom Jesus lies not in the church, but rather in the Escadaria (stairway) leading up the mountain-side. The Escadaria was originally devised by the Archbishop of Braga in 1722 to allow pilgrims to reach the earlier shrine; in its completed form (also by Almarante), it is one of the best examples of Baroque religious architecture in Iberia. The stairs zig-zag up the hillside, with each turn having its own small chapel containing (close to life-sized) statuary depicting religious scenes and images. The lowest section of the Escadaria takes pilgrims through the 14 Stations of the Cross leading to Christ's Crucifixion. The middle section is that of the Cinco Sentidos-- the Five Senses-- complete not only with statues but wall fountains and other stone carvings. The top section shows, allegorically, the Three Virtues. At the summit, just before the church itself, is the chapel of the Descent from the Cross, again in near-life-sized statuary.
![Bom Jesus wall fountain with putti [© F. C. Zanger] Bom Jesus wall fountain with putti [© F. C. Zanger]](http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/0f/18/a7/c-documents-and-settings.jpg#S17766567)
For those who don't want to climb the stairs (which some religious pilgrims still do on their knees!), it is possible to drive to the top and walk down, or the top can be reached by the oldest water funicular in Portugal (1822)-- a sort of water-powered trolley that makes trips back and forth up and down the mountain.
![Bom Jesus Funicular [© F. C. Zanger] Bom Jesus Funicular [© F. C. Zanger]](http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/0f/1a/85/c-documents-and-settings.jpg#S17767045)
The church is interesting, although not spectacular (it's hard to rate "spectacular", given the competition in Braga!). Very interesting, though, are some of the side chapels, which at first appeared to be covered with hand-scrawled graffiti. A closer examination, though, shows that what at first looks like vandalism is actually faith-- people have written prayers of petition and thanksgiving on the walls in ballpoint, apparently for many decades.
![Prayer 'graffiti' at Bom Jesus [© F. C. Zanger] Prayer 'graffiti' at Bom Jesus [© F. C. Zanger]](http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/0f/18/c1/c-documents-and-settings.jpg#S17766593)
Also at the top of the mountain are a number of (classy) hotels, a small lake with rentable rowboats, and some little tourist shops.
Bom Jesus de Monte is definitely worth the visit, for anyone with an interest in Baroque architecture, Catholic religiosity, or simply one of the best views of the region from the top of the mountain.
![View of Braga from Bom Jesus [© F. C. Zanger] View of Braga from Bom Jesus [© F. C. Zanger]](http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/0f/18/78/c-documents-and-settings.jpg#S17766520)