During warm weather, most dining on Santorini is outdoors --- or at least in a room with windows wide open. By mid-September, breezes off the caldera carry a chill that warrants a jacket or wrap.

In Fira, Selene has such a good reputation that you will probably have to call ahead for a table. The place itself looks beautiful, is hard to find, and involves lots of steps down from the street.

The nearby Archipelago is also beautiful (with the same caldera view), easy to find (right across from the Hotel Atlantis), and has above-average food.

For a top-notch meal, Vanilia in Firostefani is hard to beat. Its food is well prepared, a departure from the standard menu found everywhere, and thoughtfully served. Its selection of Santorini wines is quite good. It offers indoor and covered outdoor tables. Not cheap, but worth the price.

Also in Firostefani, just out of the center on the road to Fira, is Simos. It's a simple, local place with well made food at very reasonable prices. The pureed favas were the best of our entire trip.

At Kamari, there are numerous restaurants with tables under tents along the beach. Any one of them seems the perfext place to have a nicely grilled piece of fish while listening to the waves.