Don't miss a visit to St Gerasimos Church, just off the main road a few miles out of Argostoli.Check opening times, as it seems to close some mornings.Remember to wear clothes that cover your arms and legs.

The Church was ruined by the earthquake in 1953, and rebuilt by local residents.It is absolutely stunning, with bright colourful roof paintings. The body of St Gerasimus is kept in a small chapel in the garden, and opened to (usually greek) visitors once a week, though anyone can view him. The locals queue up when a priest opens the coffin, and then file past, some of them kissing, it has to be said, the rather gruesome remains.

It is a very moving experience and the essence of Greece.

Nearby is Denis's cafe /bar. If he's not out picking grapes Denis is a fun person to chat to, and the fresh orange juice there is wonderful.