After Dark

You'll soon discover the Jekyll & Hyde character of St Julian's afterdark. You'll be pleased by the lights reflecting in the water from the quieter restaurants and bars lining Spinola Bay.

But walk deeper into St Julian's, by the newly laid public gardens and busy bus stop just up from the Portomaso complex, and there's a must visit English style pub - the Sun in Splendour. Don't be put off by the adorning football shirts, this is a gem. Drink bottled (500ml) Lowenbrau, it's cheaper than the Cisk and what the locals drink (sadly now unavailable, drink Skol instead). The barman will feed you endless free rounds of cheese on thin Maltese crackers so long as you remain a customer.

This of course is early after dark. After a belly full of beer and cheese stroll pleasingly into the wonderful world of Paceville. Here a must for an evening meal is the Avenue (run by the same people that have the great Hotel Valentina). It's pizza and grills, but do the pasta, huge bowlfuls at not huge prices.

It's now later, but not late. Maybe take a stroll over to St George's Bay, enjoy a beer or two sat outside of Andrew's bar (possibly the oldest on the island) taking in the peaceful calm of the bay now the sunbathers have gone.

It's now after 11.00, don't think of going back to the hotel. Walk back up into Paceville, it'll be getting noisy, but not loud (still early). Go up to the roundabout which is the focal point of Paceville (the roundabout has now gone to make room for police cars!), which will soon become club central. Make your way to the "steps" leading down to the Bay Street complex. Pass by the various eateries, bars, gentlemen's clubs (they're new in town) and rave clubs (minimum age 16 surprisingly). At the bottom of the steps is an Irish pub with tables outside. Bag the table nearest the pavement, order a pint of Cisk and wait for the fun to begin.

Many locals patronise the restaurants of Paceville, but usually leave by midnight when the serious clubbers turn up.  The younger age group will have gone home by then.  Just remember that for those who do not wish to be part of the vibrant atmosphere of Paceville after dark there is still the Spinola Bay area with the Promenade leading to Balluta Bay - the restaurants and bars are quieter and you can take a stroll along the Promenade.

At about 12.30 it all kicks off, the music is now loud, funky and even fun. Soon the endless stream of clubbers (mostly locals) start their night's parading up and down the steps and across and back to Bay Street, they're such great fun to watch, a must.

A few more Cisks and its gone 3.00, where do they get the energy from?

At approaching 4.00 walk (if you can) back up the steps, through the throngs of happy clubbers (no hint of trouble here) back through Paceville to find your Hotel. A must now is the Maltese kebab, chicken or beef (not lamb). The meat is wrapped into a tortilla rather than pitta bread, and just as you're about to ask for the garlic mayonnaise, they put the whole thing into a kind of trouser press. It comes out flat and very hot, but very tasty and cheap. It's now time to find your hotel and sleep off the "experience" of St Julian's After Dark.