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My favourite spots to grab a bite in Chiang Mai
- Cafe Arte187Chiang Mai is known for its great coffee culture, with beans sourced from nearby hill tribe farms. In the Jed Yod neighbourhood, try Cafe Arte. The smiling owner and barista Pop—he’s the one with the long grey beard—serves incredible coffee. The ambiance, with chandeliers and fresh roses, is straight out of a Studio Ghibli film. Go for ham and cheese croissants in the morning, and keep an eye out for the seasonal apple pie.
- Hong Tauw Inn226For a hearty lunch, I usually head to Hong Tauw Inn. It's located in Chiang Mai’s trendy Nimmanhaemin neighbourhood, but it’s not like the flashier spots in the area. It’s homey, with fresh table linens, vintage clocks, and exceptional northern Thai food. My favourite is khanom jeen kaeng phed kai (fermented rice flour noodles with spicy red chicken curry). Don’t overlook the restaurant’s sai ua (grilled pork sausage flavoured with herbs), a regional speciality.
- Smiley Kitchen36In food-focussed Chiang Mai, locals love to frequent the city’s many Japanese restaurants. Smiley Kitchen, run by a woman from Hokkaido, stands out from the rest because it excels at Japanese home cooking. When you head here in the evening for the bento dinners, you’ll notice that the dining room is packed with Japanese expats, a sign that you’ve found the right place. A nice extra is a free, self-service herbal tea corner.
- Khao Soi Lam Duan - Fa Ham208Northern Thailand’s beloved coconut curry noodle soup, called khao soi, is usually topped with crunchy fried egg noodles, shallots, cilantro, pickled mustard stems, lime, and nam prik pao (sweet, spicy chili paste). For my biweekly khao soi fix, I follow the locals to Khao Soi Lam Duan, one of the oldest restaurants in the area. Get your thick and flavorful broth with juicy pork chunks and a refreshing, sugar-free, cold-pressed orange juice.
- B Samcook Home 16780Chef Samak Phoolsawat’s (everyone calls him Chef Boy) bold, refined take on Northern Thai cuisine at his modest B Samcook Home16 restaurant is making waves across the city, and for all the right reasons. Made from the freshest ingredients, these seven-course chef’s table dinners are a true delight, with Chef Boy explaining what goes into dishes like garlic pepper pork ribs and duck leg served with homemade mixed berry sauce.
- Grandma Thong's Kitchen1Driving outside the city to Grandma Thong’s Kitchen, you’ll feel like you’re visiting relatives you haven’t seen for a while. She and her husband serve Thai classics like tom yum goong (a spicy prawn soup) and tod man kung (shrimp cakes with a sweet and sour dipping sauce). Drop in with friends for a crash course on Northern Thai cuisine. Decorated with fresh orchids, the sharing platters taste as good as they look.
- Warorot Market (Kad Luang)1,168Thais head to this large indoor and outdoor market by the Ping River to shop for everyday items, so it’s a lot less touristy than the city’s night markets. Go early, grab a cup of black coffee from one of the stalls inside, and stroll around. You’ll find everything from fresh flowers to hand-embroidery clothing, but it’s also a great place for local snacks like deep-fried pork rinds and grilled sausages.
Chiang Mai Is Great For
Colourful bazaars and markets
Travelers' pro tips for experiencing Chiang Mai
In the words of those who've been there before ...
What is the best way to get there?
Flying
The most common way for foreign visitors to get to Chiang Mai is by air. It is possible to fly directly into the Chiang Mai International Airport from nearby Southeast Asian cities, but this is generally not an option. Most travelers will connect via Bangkok. Fortunately, air travel from Bangkok to Chiang Mai can be extremely cheap.
For detailed information on getting to Chiang Mai, including alternative modes of transportation, please refer to this article.
Do I need a visa?
Thailand has many bilateral agreements in place with other nations that allow visa-free travel. To check if your country is on that list please check here.
If your country is not listed, you will need to apply for a visa at your nearest Thai embassy. You can check here for more information on visas.
When is the best time to visit?
Winter: Late November through to mid-February are the cooler months to be in Chiang Mai. You will find you may need a jacket and jeans at this time of year. Some of the pools in Chiang Mai can be quite cold if they don’t get the sun. The days are still warm and pleasant. From mid-February onward, it starts to warm up and it’s unlikely you’ll need warmer clothes unless you are going into the mountains.
Chiang Mai also, unfortunately, suffers from air pollution in certain months due to crop burning. Please check out our forums to keep up to date on the situation.
Walk
There are more than 300 temples in Chiang Mai. Visually, it is an interesting place for a wander. Allow time in your planning to just “be” in the city, walk around, have a coffee, find a little bar, explore the many bookshops and local markets.
Tuk-tuk
To get around town you will usually use a songthaew or a tuk-tuk. Songthaews are red trucks with bench seats along the back and a cover over the top. The rate is 20B per person (young children don’t pay). Flag one down and say where you want to go. If the driver says no, it is probably because they are not going in your direction or on a set route. You can also negotiate to hire a tuk-tuk by the hour or to do a specific trip. Negotiate with the driver. Tuk-tuks will charge you between 60B and 100B for trips around town. They seat three comfortably.
For more detailed information on getting around, you can refer to this article.