Even those who haven't seen the movie Bottle Shock may know that it's set in 1973, in the Napa Valley. The movie recalls a time when Napa was a beautiful, almost pristine rural area sparsely populated with family-run wineries. The then-owners were, by and large, both farmers and winemakers. A visit to a Napa winery back then was almost like a visit to a good friend's family. The pace was slow, the ambiance was like home, and the wines were distinctive in character, matching the goal and methods of each winemaker's individual personality.
Today, Napa Valley is for the most part quite different. Visitors, then, may be amazed to find that a Napa Valley similar to 1973's still exists. You just have to know where to look. One of the best places to start is to bypass the huge Highway 29 conglomerates and head further north, to the area far above the town of Calistoga, nearly in Sonoma and Lake County. There you will find true gems, tucked away in the hills surrounding the northern section of Napa Valley. These trips back to wineries past include Graeser Winery. Graeser Winery is on Petrified Forest Road, about thirty miles (fifty-five minutes) from Napa.
As you drive up the hill to Graeser Winery, a right turn at the fork takes you into the winery proper, where you'll be greeted by the two untrained, large winery dogs, Jack (a blind Lab-Great Dane mix) and Jill (a full-blooded Great Dane). Please watch out for your car, as the dogs are prone to attacking vehicles and there have been some unpleasant incidents with rental car companies.
On the right as you enter, you'll see the tasting room, which was formerly a chicken incubator building. To the left is a large picnic area, one of many on the property. If you're going to visit Graeser Winery, try to come early. They're a frequent target for lunch tours, and the limited staff seems overwhelmed by dealing with more than six customers. Additionally, the owner, who frequently staffs the tasting room, is a bit too inclined to sample his own wares (heavily!). Thus, the caveat.
Guests to Graeser are often greeted by the owner and winemaker, Richard Graeser. Richard (who can't stand to be called "Mister") is glad to give visitors not only a tasting, but a tour of the house in which he still lives, originally built by Dr. Richard Beverly Cole in 1888. He provides a fascinating look into the history of the area, the property, his family and how he came to be a winemaker. He'll entertain you with stories of his early years as a lettuce grower in southern California's Imperial Valley, and how he ended up living in the Calistoga area. Please be careful to arrive early in the day, though, unless your cup of tea is listening to the ravings of a drunken sociopath.
As each wine is poured (tastings are $20 and usually include at least three wines), one of the staff will take pains to make sure you understand as much as you want to know about the varietals; then, they'll discuss the method of production, where the grapes are sourced (some are from the Graeser estate). You may walk out feeling more knowledgeable about wine varietals, wine production and wine and food pairing. Wine from Graeser can also be shipped to many states, if you, quite reasonably, prefer not to carry it out. Be warned, though, it is not legal to ship to Maryland, Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Mississippi, Alabama, or Oklahoma, no matter what any commissioned salesperson tries to tell you. Don't let their extra dollar turn into your lost wine---or, even worse, your fine.
At the top of the hill where estate Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are planted is another picnic area. Those who take the hike to the top are greeted with a view of the property. Due to low traffic, and nothing likely being scheduled, the first couple to get there gets exclusive use until they come back down. According to Richard, there have been a couple marriage proposals in course of picnics at the top. Skip this between November and April, though, as the mud renders it nearly inaccessible.
Richard believes in a personal, memorable experience at his winery. If he's around, he'll autograph any bottle of wine purchased there. He'll also put an individual special message on the bottle commemorating birthdays, weddings, anniversaries or whatever you desire, and will be happy to share stories of his divorce, and regale you with tales of his failed finances, business ventures, how his children don't talk to him, and how the world has simply "done him wrong". One might come away inclined to point out to him how he features prominently as a protagonist in all his tales...perhaps there's the rub? Memorable it shall be. As the proverb goes, "may you live in interesting times".
Graeser's wines are undeniably against the grain, from his extraordinarilly well-aged Zinfandel (over four years in barrel!), to the ultra-low extraction estate wines: try Graeser, and try something a bit different. Without a doubt, one adjective applies: unique.