The main problem is getting there. There is a very bad dirt road, 4-5 kilometres, along which one frequently is not allowed to drive rented cars (Avia cars claimed that they would be able to tell from the dirt on the car whether this prohibition has been obeyed). Taxis are also very reluctant to expose their cars to these pot holes. Many people do still drive, however, and the quality of the road obviously varies a lot depending on recent wheather versus reparations. There is a very nice taxi boat trip from Playa Blanca harbour and Marina Rubicon, but it is almost as expensive as going to Fuerteventura or on a full day cruise. On the other hand, a day at the Papagayo beach might well be as nice an experience. The walk along these beaches is lovely in itself, but the most comfortable way of seeing Papagayo is probably by boat.
A third alternative is to drive or bike to the Papagayo Arena hotel, which is as close as one gets on good roads. Biking further is difficult since the surface is rough (although there are a few mountainbikes even at the cape). From Papagayo Arena to the first beach is only a ten minute walk so this is only a problem given very small children (especially in baby carriers) or mobility problems. The beaches further away are much less accessible. At low tide it is possible to walk between the first four beaches along the sea, on a shelf in the cliffs created by the tide. This shelf is several meters wide and quite flat; one does not get wet and there are no places where climbing is required. The first passage is slighly more difficult than the rest as it is less even. Some people have hiking equipment but this is not called for. All the way to the (final) Papagayo beach itself takes maybe an additional 25 minutes of leisurely walk along the sea, which is a lot faster than walking along the car road (50-60 minutes and much less beautiful) or if you have to climb up and down all the cliffs and canyons between and/or above the beaches at high tide. To find a reasonably flat walk up on the plateua one more or less has to follow the car road. There are also several lovely coves that cannot be reached from above and that are filled with water during high tide. Consulting a tide time table before setting off is hence highly advisable. There are perhaps five or six hours around the lowest tide when this walk is feasible (although this is a guess, ask a local if this is important to you).
The first beach is the longest, widest and has the best sand. There are no sun beds, no restaurants and very few people compared to town beaches. Most guests at nearby hotels appear to remain at this first beach. It might be the best one purely "beachwise" but it is less charming and original than the fourth beach and a good town beach like Playa Dorada probably outranks this one using standard beach quality criteria anyway (unless "no crowds" is considered very important). Papagayo beach itself is the fourth and final beach on this side, a perfect oyster shaped cove carved into reddish rocks, rather dramatic and picturesque. Contrary to the guidebook there are several small restaurants on the right cliff close to the car park so it is not compulsory to carry supplies. The two beaches in between are less special but also less populated. In between them, in turn, there are several small, steep, low tide coves where you may actually have your own private beach (unless already occupied by nudists). There is a fifth major beach around the cape where the boats come in; however rather less charming than the first four.