4 great neighborhoods to stay in Madrid

Madrid is getting more attention these days, and rightfully so: It has glamorous hotels, diverse restaurants, and star-studded museums—all without the crowds of, say, Barcelona. But, the barrios are the real beating heart of Spain's capital.

After a short stint as a resident—and many return visits—I consider myself something of a Madrid expert. So, I’m here to tell you (spoiler alert!): You must escape Sol, the frenetic, touristic center, and stay in the laid-back local enclaves around it. You’ll find these districts have a slower pace—picture quiet apartments on leafy plazas, where you can sip cerveza (or cava) while eating some tapas.

And don’t worry about fitting it all in. Even if you only spend one night, you can still get a feel for Madrid and see more than you’d expect. But, trust me, you’ll be tempted to stay longer next time!

La Latina—south of the royal cathedral, the palace, and Plaza Mayor—is the place to stay for food lovers and serious shoppers. This rambling medieval barrio is one of Madrid’s oldest nabes, meaning you can take in the traditional architecture as you wander its winding streets, sit in its charming plazas, or sip coffee from your hotel balcony. You may even have heard of its massive Sunday market, El Rastro. Its stalls march on (and on) through the streets. While it can be crammed (watch your pockets!), you can find some serious bargains. I suggest dipping in and out of the market rather than trying to do it all at once—yes, there are treasures here, but it can be a little overwhelming, and it helps to have fresh eyes. Tip: If you’re not a fan of crowds, hit this neighborhood on a weekday.

Then, stroll down Calle de la Cava Baja and pop into the tapas bars lining the block. I love Casa Lucio, a historic tavern that serves typical Madrid dishes like the chickpea-packed stew cocido Madrileño and huevos estrellados, a fried egg, meat, and French fry dish (aka the best hangover cure). Art enthusiasts should also check out San Francisco el Grande Basilica, which is home to several Goyas. To hear about Madrid’s history, visit Museo de San Isidro, a hidden gem that gives a great explanation of the city (admission is free). Or catch a nightly flamenco show at Corral de la Morería, on the eastern edge of the neighborhood.

Hotel pick: La Latina is surprisingly light on hotels, but you’ll feel right at home at Apartamentos Cava Baja. It’s close to all the main tourist sights, but is still quieter than Sol’s packed streets, a few blocks north. The flats are fully equipped with living rooms, kitchens, and super fast WiFi—all for an affordable rate.

Barrio de las Letras is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Madrid—ideal for culture vultures like me. Many of the city’s literary greats have lived here, and it still has a bohemian energy to this day (on Calle de las Huertas, look for the quotes etched into the sidewalk). It's also a convenient home base, with easy access to the elegant El Retiro park as well as Atocha train station for travelers who want to explore other Spanish cities nearby. Plus, the world-class museums—aka the holy trinity of the Prado, Reina Sofia, and Thyssen-Bornemisza—are all within a short walk.

Though this neighborhood is full of amazing restaurants, I always make a beeline to Taberna El Sur de Huertas, an excellent (and reasonably priced) restaurant. The pimientos de padrón (seared green peppers) are notable, and the ropa vieja (slow-cooked shredded beef) makes me cry every time. Book ahead, especially for weekends, as there’s often a queue. For cocktails, La Maripepa Cervecería on Calle de Jesús is a cozy, traditional tavern with rotating taps, friendly bartenders, and a little bit of a punk twist. Alimentacion Quiroga is also an old-school pick (it dates back to 1958) that offers an extensive wine selection and great small plates, including jamón and cheeses from its own deli.

Tip: Plaza de Santa Ana is a beautiful square to stroll through, but I’d recommend avoiding the restaurants. Prices are high, and the quality is quite low compared to what you can find on the side streets.

Hotel pick: Room Mate Alba Hotel is a particularly good option thanks to its central location and boutique aesthetic (if there’s no availability, the Room Mate Alicia is just around the corner). This Madrid-based hotel chain has a certain flair to it—each space has patterned wallpaper and funky tiles. This unique, youthful vibe attracts friend groups who want a stylish stay.

Two of Madrid’s top neighborhoods are separated by a shopping street, Calle Fuencarral, making it easy to hop between both barrios. Creative types should consider staying in Malasaña, which has an alternative vibe, young residents, and streets filled to the brim with bars. For a sampling of street food, the trendy Mercado de San Ildefonso (just off Fuencarral) has three floors, 20 stalls, and three cocktail bars. I love spending an evening at Plaza de Dos de Mayo—it’s a delight for people-watching if you can find an outdoor table (and if you’re craving pizza after a few beers, grab a takeaway slice at Antonia Pizza). Nearby, Kinda Kinks, named after The Kinks’ second album, is a great spot for vintage clothing. And if you’re into art, the Centro de Cultura Contemporánea Conde Duque has some unique galleries and exhibitions, too. For an elevated meal, Les Mauvais Garçons serves up incredible French and Spanish fare, as well as natural wine.

Fuencarral itself is a sort of high street, on and around which you’ll find shops like New Balance, Maje, Carhartt WIP, and other international brands. On the other side is Chueca, the epicenter of Madrid’s LGBTQ+ community and a welcoming place for queer visitors. (Note: It’s a zone within the larger district of Justicia, and the two are often hyphenated). Designer Juan Vidal’s boutique is here, featuring floaty, floral, feminine dresses, and (at a lower price point), Alphaville Vintage Ropa is an excellent stop for secondhand threads. Meanwhile, Calle Hortaleza is home to numerous queer book shops and boutiques. On the northern edge of the district is the excellent Museum of Romanticism, which goes beyond art to explore the culture of the Romantic period.

Hotel pick: Swap a cramped hotel room for a spacious apartment at Sonder’s Malasaña outpost, right near Plaza de Dos de Mayo. Think of it as a sleek alternative to airbnb—each flat has retro refrigerators, vintage wall art, and a balcony overlooking a charming, tree-lined street. It’s popular among digital nomads and creative types.

Known as Madrid’s multicultural neighborhood (it’s home to at least 88 different nationalities), the steep hills of Lavapiés give way to some true treasures—and host a world’s worth of restaurants and bars, without the tourist crowds. So, if you're looking for an all-night party—and an affordable spot to crash—Lavapiés has your name on it. On the edge of the neighborhood is the Plaza de Tirso de Molina, a triangular-ish plaza with flower shops and lively bars to have a copa. Sit outside at Taberna Tirso de Molina so you can admire the Toulouse-Lautrec-inspired exterior or shop for fresh, local produce at the Mercado Antón Martin.

The neighborhood is perfect for an evening out, thanks to a seemingly endless parade of quirky bars. For live music, Malatesta Rock Bar is a great option, but Madre Flaca is one of my all-time favorite spots in the city, mostly because you never know what to expect. On my first visit, I stumbled upon a ukulele club warming up here; the second time, there was a DJ performing; and on the third trip, I was adopted by not one, but two groups of friendly madrileños, who I partied with until dawn (bars and clubs in Madrid are open very, very late).

Hotel pick: As a solo traveler, it can be hard to find affordable lodging—but luckily, rates tend to be lower in this neighborhood. Casa du Soleil and BYPILLOW Crosstown both have cute rooms for around $110 a night, depending on the season. I particularly liked BYPILLOW’s clean, comfortable rooms and excellent showers (the water pressure was perfect). Meanwhile, Casa du Soleil has a bohemian vibe, with rattan chandeliers, beige butterfly chairs, and plants everywhere. The host, Valentina, welcomes you into the hotel like it’s her home.