Winter weekend in Vermont: comfort food, skiing, and Golden Retrievers




Details in this story were updated in September 2024.
Last year, The WeekEnder hung out with a very cute Golden Retriever who is the chief happiness officer at a hotel in Manchester, Vermont. This year, we’re amping up the feel-good factor even more with cuddles from more than a dozen Golden Retrievers at Golden Dog Farm in Jeffersonville, a little town up in the Green Mountains that everyone calls “Jeff.” You thought cat cafes were cool? This 275-acre farm right near Smugglers’ Notch (aka “Smuggs”) just launched a Golden Retriever Experience, which has blown up on social media with good reason.
It’s the brainchild of Doug Worple, who left his high-powered advertising job in Cincinnati right before Covid. Along with his photographer wife, Becca, they went traveling across the U.S. in an RV with their two Golden Retrievers in search of a better life. “We wanted to be doing something outside, and we’ve always had Golden Retrievers and wanted to have room for more,” says Worple, who likes to be called “Farmer Doug.” In Jeffersonville, they found a farm with 18th-century buildings, 4,500 taps for making maple syrup, 1,300 grapevines for wine, apple orchards, and a neighbor who breeds Golden Retrievers—and the stars aligned. Last fall, Farmer Doug came up with the idea to host big doggie-snuggle sessions, and each one sells out. “It’s a great gift to share with people,” he says.

David Keck has a similar story (minus the doggies). He’s a master sommelier and the owner of Stella14 Wines, which he launched a few years ago in this pretty corner of northern Vermont. He grew up in the eastern part of the state, and his wife, Lauren, used to ski at Smugglers’ Notch as a kid. They had been living in Houston but had decided to relocate to the Northeast just as the pandemic hit. A vineyard available for lease and the simple charms of this area lured them in. “It’s one of the few places in Vermont that still feels a hundred percent authentic,” he says. “If you’re visiting Jeff, it really feels like you’re in Vermont as opposed to a tourist town built for people outside Vermont.”
For another transplant, Akash Parikh, this area was something he’d been scouting for on his long drives. “I drove around Vermont quite a bit and loved the laid-back pace and the accessibility to the outdoors—skiing, snowboarding, hiking. So we had to move here,” he says. Now Parikh owns Hearth & Candle, the only local date-night spot, which serves up American comfort food with a twist, like filet mignon with local blue cheese and housemade bacon jam.
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But maybe the most heartwarming moving-to-Jeff story of all belongs to "Luz" (as our next expert likes to be called). She had been living in Puerto Rico when Hurricane Maria devastated the island in 2017. She and her husband had relatives in this area, so they decided to apply for jobs at Smugglers’ Notch Resort on a whim—and were immediately hired. “The people at Smuggs opened their arms and helped us so much—they even gave us coats,” says Luz, who now works as a vacation planner at Smugglers’ Notch, and sings its praises to prospective guests. “I’m so happy that we landed in a place that’s very welcoming. Everybody here is like a family.”
Cute dogs, comfort food, skiing, and a welcoming community? Vermont, here we come.
Where to stay
What’s your dream hotel? Log cabin? Historic inn? Ski condo? A cottage on a farm? This area has it all.

For adventure buffs: Smugglers’ Notch Resort in Jeffersonville
Scattered across the three mountains that make up Smugglers' Notch Resort, these condos have plenty of space to stretch out, easy access to great skiing, and—a winter bonus—fireplaces in all the rooms, heated pools, and hot tubs.
For sweethearts: Sterling Ridge Resort in Jeffersonville
Log cabins, A-frame homes, wood-burning stoves, private outdoor fire pits, and a new spa all add up to a cozy winter escape. “It’s a great location right in the shadow of Mount Mansfield and a beautiful little property,” says Keck, whose wife has been staying here since she was young.

For families: Smugglers’ Notch Inn in Jeffersonville
On the National Register of Historic Places, this 1790s farmhouse was converted into an inn in the 1890s and has been a family favorite ever since.
For the farm life: Stony Grove in Pleasant Valley
This apple, blueberry, and lavender farm just five miles west of Smugglers’ Notch has charming cottages for rent. “It’s literally walking distance from our farm and it’s awesome,” says Worple. “It’s run by the nicest couple.”
Where to eat
There aren’t a ton of restaurants in this area, but their quality is top-notch. From surprisingly good bagels to the best après-ski bites, here's where we love to eat.
Best breakfasts

Cupboard Deli in Jeffersonville - A deli in a gas station, “the Cubby” is a simple-but-good standby for doughnuts and breakfast sandwiches. “They have a terrific assortment,” says Keck.
Hanleys in Jeffersonville - This little grocery store is more than just groceries. “They just brought on someone who’s making bagels,” says Keck, a former New Yorker with high bagel standards. “It takes a lot for me to say this—but they’re really delicious.”
Lunchtime

The Farm Store in Jeffersonville - Want to grab a bite to go? This is your spot for organic prepared foods, pickled veggies, and local treats like maple cream cookies.
Black Bear Tavern in Jeffersonville - Pop into this slopeside spot for a burger and an après-ski brew. “It frequently has live music,” says Keck.
Casual bites

The Family Table in Jeffersonville - “This has been a huge contribution to the local food scene,” says Keck, who goes for the pizza: “It’s unlike the usual greasy average small-town-USA pizza. It’s got a thin crust and is legit—it’s made in a Neapolitan-style pizza oven.” Worple loves the grilled lamb burger served with tzatziki sauce and feta cheese.
The Village Tavern in Jeffersonville - “This a great place to go on a Saturday night and have a drink and a burger and listen to live music, which is perfect for a ski town,” says Keck. “It’s got solid food—nachos, popcorn shrimp, and fish and chips.
Martell’s at the Red Fox in Jeffersonville - “Another place that’s always packed,” says Worple. “It’s in a cool red building that looks like an old schoolhouse, the food is good, and it’s got a great ambiance.” We’ve got our eye on the duck leg with cranberry Chambord coulis, mashed potato, stuffing, and sauteed butternut squash.
Lot 6 in Jeffersonville - Talk about a craft beer pedigree. Zero Gravity’s former director of brew operations is in charge of the beer program at this newly opened brewpub, and the menu is loaded with comfort-food goodness like tater-tot poutine and karaage chicken sandwiches.
Date night

Hearth & Candle in Jeffersonville - There’s only one date-night place in town, and this candlelit restaurant on the mountain is it, though it’s also got a more casual dining room if you want to keep it low-key. Owner Akash Parikh taps into local purveyors for dishes like fennel-rubbed lamb rack with blackberry demi glace and wild boar with ricotta gnocchi. “I can’t say enough good things about Akash and Hearth & Candle,” says Keck.
What to do
Outdoor fun
“This area appeals to outdoorsy types,” says Worple. “So if someone has an extra hour, they’ll go for a hike instead of shopping.” And it’s got year-round appeal, perfect for a winter escape.

Golden Dog Farm in Jeffersonville - Book a one-hour session at this family-owned farm and you’ll find yourself surrounded by friendly Golden Retrievers. As past visitors have put it: “Best day ever.” “I’ve never been so happy. “Can’t stop smiling.” And don’t miss the small-batch maple syrup for sale—it’s made right onsite, and unusually good. According to Worple, it’s all about the altitude and the terroir. Or maybe it’s just that happy dogs make everything taste better.
Smugglers’ Notch Resort in Jeffersonville - You’ll find three mountains with a mix of ski runs—from beginner greens to challenging black diamonds—plus breathtaking landscapes. “It’s so family-oriented, and families have been coming here for generations,” says Luz. Parikh comes with his own kids. Their favorite trail: Doc Dempsey’s Glades.
Snowshoe the Notch in Jeffersonville - Not a skier? The resort offers three scenic miles of trails with guided snowshoe treks for every level.
Lajoie Stables in Jeffersonville - Hop on a horse-drawn sleigh ride—the prettiest way to take in the winter landscapes.
Bootlegger Bikes in Jeffersonville - This shop in town rents out bikes for a day of exploring. “It’s great if people want to get on the rail trail and explore, and at this time of year, they also have fat bikes for snow biking,” says Keck.
Indoor fun
Want to warm up? From tastings to knitting classes, Jeffersonville has you covered.

Stella14 Wines in Jeffersonville - At this tasting room in the center of Jeffersonville, David Keck shares the wines that he’s growing nearby—plus cheese and snacks if you want to make an apres-ski moment out of it. “David is doing some really great wines—and we serve some of them at the restaurant,” says Parikh, who is a fan of the Wild Child Rose. “He’s elevating Vermont wine to where I think it should be.”
Smugglers’ Notch Distillery in Jeffersonville - This family-owned distillery has locations across Vermont, but there’s nothing like going to the source for creative spirits like Moroccan rose and grapefruit flavored vodka, maple-infused gin, and bourbon maple cream liqueur. “We feature several of them in our specialty cocktails, like the Blood & Roses with their hopped gin, blood orange, rose water, and St-Germain,” says Parikh.
Red Leaf Gluten Free Brewing in Jeffersonville - When it comes to gluten-free beers, this women-owned brewery is a trailblazer. “They’re doing really great work,” says Keck.
Two Sisters Mill & Mercantile in Jeffersonville - This yarn shop run by local artisans has handspun yarn, knitting supplies, and handmade crafts for sale. “They also do classes, so if somebody wants to learn how to knit or crochet, it’s great,” says Keck. “And they have social gatherings—you could call it a modern-day knitting bee.”