A first-timer’s guide to Yellowstone National Park

The first time I visited Yellowstone National Park, I was three. My family was scouting the area to decide if we should move to Jackson Hole, WY—one look at the mountain vistas and bubbling streams, and my parents were sold. Growing up, I returned to the park often for school field trips, fishing excursions with my dad, and as an unofficial tour guide anytime friends came to town. Even now that I live in Texas, I make it a point to visit at least once a year. And while I’ve experienced dozens of other national parks, none have been able to top Yellowstone.

With its geological wonders (the park sits above a supervolcano), abundant wildlife, and human history, there’s no shortage of things to see. In fact, it often feels like several parks in one. If you’ve never been, I promise you’re in for a treat. Below are my tried-and-true tips.

The park’s main thoroughfare, Grand Loop Road, consists of two routes: an upper loop and a lower loop that intersect like a figure eight. The major attractions—Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and Mammoth Hot Springs—are all along this road. Technically, you can do both loops in a day—the actual drive is five hours, but that doesn’t include travel time into the park, inevitable traffic jams, or stops for sightseeing. For a leisurely experience, I recommend allocating at least three days to see the best of the Grand Loop.

Tip: Unlike some national parks, Yellowstone does not offer a shuttle system. There are tours you can join, like the Historic Yellow Bus Tour, but you’ll need a car if you want to explore on your own.

You never know when you might happen upon a herd of bison crossing the river (one of my favorite things I’ve witnessed) or a rare eruption (count yourself lucky if you see Steamboat Geyser blow—with recorded heights of up to 300 feet, it’s the world’s tallest active geyser). You don’t want to miss out on the surprises that make Yellowstone so special because you’re in a rush. Pencil in just one or two major sites or timed events a day and then leave the rest open.

One thing to plan around, though, is meals, since hours and quality of in-park restaurants vary. The chuckwagon cookouts near Roosevelt Lodge are hokey in the best way, while the Lake Yellowstone Hotel Dining Room offers more upscale, reservation-only dinners (stop by the sunroom after for string quartet performances). For lunch, I love the Old Faithful General Store, a historic gem with burlwood beams, a retro diner, and huckleberry ice cream.

Tip: Cell service is scarce, so download the NPS App, which works offline and has info on trails, self-guided tours, and predictions for when geysers will likely erupt.

Generally, I’m out the door no later than 7 a.m. so I can enjoy solitude at the typically crowded hotspots. Then, as parking lots fill up, I go for an afternoon picnic or hike. If you’re more of a night owl, aim to visit after 7 p.m. (in the summer, it stays light until almost 10 p.m. and most people will have returned to their accommodations by then). This is also when many animals emerge for dinner.

The Lamar Valley is arguably the best place to see wildlife, including bighorn sheep, bison, and once-endangered wolves. I’ve yet to see a wolf up close in the wild, but it’s not uncommon to find photographers lining the road, their lenses aimed at a den on the hillside. Ask nicely and they’ll let you take a peek. Head to Mammoth Hot Springs for the chance to see elk grazing on the hotel’s lawn and keep your eyes peeled for bears in Hayden Valley. If you have your heart set on seeing a moose, know that sightings are rare—your best bet is to look near bodies of water with willow trees (one of their favorite snacks). Bring binoculars and bear spray, especially if you plan to hike, and brush up on your animal-viewing etiquette.

Tip: If you strike out in the park, try the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone. The not-for-profit animal rescue provides a home for critters both big (bears, wolves) and small (otters, prairie dogs) that cannot survive in the wild.

Crowds are inevitable if you visit during the summer months, but finding a moment for yourself is easy—it just requires a shift in perspective.

Yellowstone boasts roughly 1,000 miles of trails, many of which offer prime views from above the park’s most popular sites. Here are a few of my underrated favorites:

You can also get out on the water. Yellowstone Lake is the largest high-elevation lake in North America and sits in the caldera of an ancient volcano. Learn about still-active underwater thermal features and explore parts of the West Thumb Geyser Basin while on a kayak tour or hop aboard the Lake Queen II for a scenic cruise that includes possible bald eagle sightings. I also recommend a stop at Isa Lake. While tiny, it’s remarkable for its location atop the Continental Divide—it’s the only lake that drains into two oceans.

Most of the hype occurs around the park’s geological marvels, but there’s a lot of human history here too. For starters, the park was—and still is—a sacred place for more than 20 Indigenous groups. The Yellowstone Tribal Heritage Center features live programming with native artists and scholars covering topics like storytelling, dance, and beadwork.

After the park was founded in 1872, the U.S. Army served as its stewards and old Fort Yellowstone still stands, accessible via a self-guided walking tour. (While you’re there, make a quick detour to Roosevelt Arch). And even if you’re not staying in the park, stop by the Old Faithful Inn—the world’s largest log cabin and one of the earliest examples of “parkitecture.” (Disney fans will recognize it as the inspiration for the Wilderness Lodge). Join one of the free summer tours to learn more about the inn and why its staff celebrate Christmas on August 25.

Tip: The general stores throughout the park offer more than just t-shirts and tchotchkes. Many reside in historic buildings and each sells different souvenirs. On a cold day, I love to warm up by the stone fireplace in the Lake General Store.

There are four major access points: The small town of Gardiner, MT, in the north, offers easy entry in the winter; Cody, WY—founded by Buffalo Bill Cody—is not far from the east entrance and boasts Western charm (complete with a nightly rodeo in the summer); and my picturesque hometown of Jackson, WY, sits to the south and is best if you also want to explore Grand Teton National Park. Last but not least, the aptly-named West Yellowstone is at—you guessed it—the west entrance and is great for families and large groups on a budget.

Tip: Park hotel reservations open a year in advance and rooms go quickly, but check back often for cancellations. Camping is also an option and it’s possible to find availability at the largest campground, Bridge Bay, even in summer. However, my go-to is Grant Village for its central location and secluded sites among the trees.

My last word of advice? Don’t limit your visit to the summer months. Right after Labor Day is one of my favorite times to experience the park, when crowds dwindle, the air is crisp, and the leaves start to change. Winter is also otherworldly. Cross-country ski past slumbering bison and frozen waterfalls, visit geysers surrounded by snow, and ice skate outdoors at the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Yellowstone is an enchanting place, whenever you go.