7 perfect days in Sardinia

The second largest island in the Mediterranean, Sardinia often gets compared to its more famous sibling, Sicily. But when you put them side by side, Sardinia often comes out on top (if you ask me). Its beaches are more pristine, its coastline more wild, its archaeological sites older than Rome—and you can already imagine how good the seafood is, especially at simple restaurants along the ocean. If you’re looking to get away from it all—and not just follow the crowds—Sardinia is where to go.

It’s impossible to visit the whole island in a week, so this seven-day itinerary focuses on southern Sardinia where the vibe is more relaxed. And my picks draw on Tripadvisor reviews and ratings so that you can be sure to visit the places other travelers have loved, too.

Welcome to Sardinia’s capital and largest city, Cagliari. Start your day with a typical Sardinian shepherd’s breakfast—flatbread with pecorino cheese and prosciutto, topped with a drizzle of honey—at one of the oldest cafes in Cagliari, Caffe' Svizzero. In Sardinia, I guarantee you’ll be eating like a royal for the next seven days.

After downing your second caffè, set out on the 20-minute walk to the Cattedrale Di Santa Cecilia (also known as Cagliari Cathedral). It’s on one of the highest points in the city, so there’s a hill to climb, but those views at the top are a sweet reward. In the same piazza, the Palazzo di Citta, there’s a small museum that displays a cool collection of Sardinian textiles.

Continue your introduction to Sardinia at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Cagliari, a seven-minute walk away. The archaeological museum houses a huge collection of objects from the Neolithic to the Roman era, but I recommend it for the impressive Giants of Monte Prama, 6-foot-tall bronze statues representing archers and warriors.

Ready for a pit stop? Head to Panino Rustico, where cheap and cheerful means a freshly made sandwich stuffed with mortadella and cheese or roasted pork (with plenty of other meat and vegetarian options). The rough-hewn tables are a great place to take a load off.

After polishing off lunch, visit one of the most popular places in the city: the Saint Remy Bastion and the Umberto I Terrace, a 15-minute walk away. After the limestone monument was destroyed during World War II, the dramatic stairway and arch were rebuilt, and in the process became the symbol of the city. For the most spectacular views, I always head straight to the terrace.

Time to kick back with an aperitivo, the Italian version of a happy hour (but in my book, it’s better in every way). My favorite spot is Spirits Boutique, where Emilio Rocchino adds native wild herbs to classic cocktails.

A five-minute walk south along Via Vicolo Collegio, the award-winning Stella Marina di Montecristo restaurant serves classic Sardinian dishes like fregola pasta with seafood. I advise you to go with the chef’s recommendation, which will be a surprise depending on the day’s catch—when in Cagliari and all.

It’s market time, which in Cagliari means a visit to San Benedetto Market. Open every day except Sunday, the largest indoor market in Italy is in the center of town on Via Coccu Ortu. It’s renowned for its fish and seafood stalls, which take up the entire ground floor. It’s also a great place to pick up nibbles for today’s beach picnic. Don’t be afraid to wander the stalls and taste test as you go. The vendors are friendly and eager to feed you even if your Italian is non-existent.

No matter the time of the year in Sardinia, every day is beach day. The closest to the city center is Poetto, five miles of white fine sand stretching all the way to Quartu Sant'Elena. Claim your patch of sand on the free beach or opt for a beach club that caters to your every whim. Poetta is a well-known windsurfing and kitesurfing spot, and there are plenty of places to rent the right equipment.

Restaurants by the beach don’t always top must-try lists, but Ristorante Litus is one I don’t hesitate to recommend. Located at the marina end of Poetto Beach, it’s not the cheapest find, but the guarantee of the freshest seafood is worth the extra euros. The seafood-dominated menu is extensive (linguine with clams and bottarga is my pick).

Today say farewell to the capital as you drive south to Pula, a 35-minute drive away. As with almost all the towns along the coast, the beaches here are beautiful, but we’re pulling into Pula to see the island’s most important historical site, the Ancient City of Nora. Nora was an important Phoenician trading port before being conquered by the Romans in 238 BCE. Roman-era baths, temples, and an amphitheater (still in use today) are just some of the ruins.

Leave the ancient ruins behind and snap yourself back to the present day with lunch at the award-winning Fradis Minoris. Park the car at Sant’Efisio Church and walk across a strip of land to reach the sea-facing restaurant, where the chef creates his seafood-oriented tasting menu once Mario the fisherman returns with his catch of the day. I love the views from the terrace of nearby Nora Lagoon.

After lunch, head inside the Chiesa di Sant’Efisio, a church dating back to the 13th century and dedicated to Cagliari’s patron saint. The saint earned his place in the local’s heart, saving them from the plague in 1652 and Napoleon’s army in 1793.

Continuing onto Chia, a 25-minute drive south, Araj’s relaxed pizza-and-panini vibe is tonight’s spot for a sunset dinner. The open-air dining area is right on the beach, so feel free to kick your shoes off and wiggle your toes around in the sand. You can finish with a couple of drinks in a lounge chair facing the surf.

To get to Teulada, take the Strada Panoramica della Costa del Sud (SP71), the more picturesque route with both mountain and sea views. Along the way, consider an easy 30-minute hike to the handsome Faro di Capo Spartivento. An old lighthouse built in 1866 by the Italian navy is the highlight of the trip. It has since been transformed into a plush hotel.

Stop off along the way for a dip at any beach that takes your fancy—my favorite is the crescent-shaped Cala Cipolla Beach. It’s worth exploring the path along the shore to find rocky coves where people are riding stand-up paddleboards. Tripadvisor readers give this beach a thumbs-up.

Continue on the SP71 to the coves of Capo Malfatano, a 22-minute drive away. This is the spot where the Phoenicians founded their first settlements in Sardinia. Diving and snorkeling fanatics, this is your spot. Photographers won’t be disappointed either. A 10-minute walk to the Torre di Capo Malfatano, where you’ll be rewarded with a view of the entire coastline.

After all that walking, lunch is calling. The beachfront Riccio Bianco Restaurant is one of the best spots in the area. Sitting on a covered wooden porch, you can enjoy crispy calamari, steamed mussels, and other seafood dishes as you gaze out at the water. Don’t miss my favorite thing on the menu, the lemon cheesecake. Continuing on the SP71, Piscinnì Beach provides an idyllic place to take a dip.

For a slice of the Caribbean, head north on the SP71 to Porto Pino, a 30 minute drive away. Expect rolling sand dunes, crystalline waters, and a relatively empty beach. Across the way at Spiaggia delle Dune (Le Dune Beach), you’ll be sharing the sea with pink flamingos (no, you’re not seeing things). This magical area is part of the Cape Teulada military base, and it’s only accessible for three months in the summer.

Dinner tonight is at a biodynamic farm called Sa Reina L'agriturismo di Samuel Caboni. Believe me, it will be a highlight of your trip. Most of the produce is all from the farm, so everything is as fresh as possible. The meats, from the lamb chops or roasted pork, were also raised here. Whatever ends up on the menu of the day will be Sardinia on a plate. The place is a bit rustic—you dine outdoors on picnic tables—but that’s part of the appeal.

Start the morning with a pleasant 30-minute drive across the bridge to the fishing village of Sant’ Antioco, called the “island within the island.” Sant’ Antioco—or Sulci, as it was once known—is still (relatively) off the tourist track. Pull in for breakfast at Caffe Taberlet, where owner Mauro and his wife Graziella roast and pack their own signature coffee beans. It’s known for pouring the best espresso in town, and I can recommend their hand-rolled cornetti (croissants) and custard doughnuts.

Caffeinated and soaring high on sugar, brush up on your Sant’Antioco history at the Museo Archeologico Ferruccio Barreca, a five-minute drive north. The museum details the 5,000-year-old history of the island in three interactive exhibition halls.

Continuing our history lesson, Villaggio Ipogeo (Hypogeum Village), is a fascinating glimpse into the island’s not-so-distant past. This underground village filled with Punic-era tombs was used to house the poorest of the island, and the last inhabitants only left in the 1960s. The museum next door, the Museo Etnografico (Ethnography Museum) offers daily tours. Directly behind the museum is the Necropoli Punica di Is Pirixeddus. The ancient Punic inhabitants of Sulci used to bury their dead here, and ever since, the necropolis has been reused over and over through the centuries.

I Due Fratelli, a four-minute drive south on the seafront promenade, is a great spot for lunch. It’s run by a cooperative, which means the freshest fish you can imagine at a fair price. The specialties here include linguine with seafood and sea urchin risotto. Skip dessert and walk over to Caffetteria Gelateria Artigianale La Laguna to pick up some Nutella crêpes to eat at the beach.

For a post-lunch swimming spot, Cala Grotta is a beautiful rocky inlet with views worth climbing for. (Don’t worry, it’s not as daunting as it looks). You’ll need water shoes, too, but swimming, diving, and exploring the cave is safe. There’s not a lot of space for towels and umbrellas, so the emphasis really is on swimming rather than sunbathing.

For a full beach experience that doesn’t involve scaling rocks, the small but sweet Cala Lunga is a six-minute drive north. Otherwise, continue to Calasetta (tonight’s stopping point) via the coastal road, the Strada Comunale Cala Sapone, in the northern part of Sant’Antioco. This is tonnara (tuna fishing) country, and a blissfully calm afternoon on Spiaggia Grande lives up to its name. There’s plenty of space for your towel and fun activities like windsurfing lessons.

Spend the evening at Oasi Blu, which also has rooms if you decide that you want to bed down for the night. Nestled between the sea and some olive trees, everything that appears on your plate is grown on the property. (And yes, those are the very olives that produce the extra-virgin olive oil on your table.) The menu is seasonal, but roast suckling pig and homemade pastas are staples here.

After a 50-minute drive over the bridge back to the big island, you reach Nebida. This was a thriving mining area in the 1600s, and today hikers come here for the stunning coastal trails. My favorite walk in the Nebida area leads straight to the Laveria Lamarmora, the former mine processing plant and abandoned village where the miners once lived.

Keep your hiking boots on and head for Passeggiata del Belvedere di Nebida, a circular trail with magnificent views of the sea. Wait, what’s that rock shaped like a loaf of bread? The Pan di Zucchero is hard to miss. The massive limestone stack takes its name from Pão de Açúcar in Rio de Janeiro.

If you’re running out of steam after a strenuous hike, Dal Capitano on Via Laveria Lamarmora offers a welcome rest for your weary legs. If the nautical theme in the dining room is a bit too much, focus outwards on the amazing view of Pan di Zucchero. Favorite dishes here include roasted tuna with a puree of carrots and meatballs in a cream sauce.

This afternoon, our heavenly beach destination is Cala Domestica. Set between two towering cliffs, this fairly wild beach has plenty of places to explore. (Or if you prefer, just spread out your towel and relax.) Stay for the magical sunset—you don’t have many left in Sardinia, so grab a spritzer at the bar and kick back. The beach gets high marks from Tripadvisor readers.

Head north on SP83 to La Privilegiata (10 minutes away) tonight’s dinner spot. If I were you, I’d try to nab a table on the outside terrace. The usual suspects—pasta and pizza—are the hits here, but I’d go for anything grilled. Share a whole fish or some roasted meat with seasonal greens. If you’re not tiramisu-ed out by now, it’s a sweet ending to the day.

Heading back to the capital today, there’s one very special stop to make along the way. Grotta di Santa Barbara is a jaw-dropping sight that was discovered by miners in 1952. The cave is hidden deep in the bowels of a mountain and can only be reached by an underground train ride—worth the detour, right? Guided tours in English are offered in the morning and afternoon.

Stop at S’anninnia for a quintessential Sardinian lunch before journeying back to Cagliari. This simple eatery serves hearty fish dishes like pappardelle with red shrimp and asparagus or citrus-glazed swordfish on a bed of arugula. Tripadvisor readers say it’s one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, and it’s hard to argue with that. Vegans and vegetarians are well catered for, too. From here, Cagliari is an hour east on the SS130.

How to best spend your final evening in this magical city? I’d say you should be feasting on fresh seafood at trendy Upper House, one of Sardinia’s best restaurants. Opt for Chef Simona Deschino’s tasting menu, which always has a touch of whimsy to it. That carries over to the regular menu, where the octopus appetizer is cheekily called “Polpo Fiction.” Everything here works—the presentation, the décor, and especially the food—making this the perfect end to your seven-day Sardinian adventure.