See Prague one step at a time
Pack your walking shoes and hit the streets.


When I first visited Prague about a quarter-century ago, both the Velvet Revolution and the Velvet Divorce—which split up the old Czechoslovakia—were still rather recent history. It was summer, and, as the optimistic capital of a new nation, the city was bursting with life.
It was awesome. I was at the tail end of one of those whirlwind backpacker trips with my best friend. What we had: paper Eurail passes, and a ton of youthful energy. What we didn’t have: much in the way of funds.
So, we walked. Occasionally, we would splurge on a subway or a rattling Soviet-era tram, but even in the budget-friendly city, taxis were out of the question. Therefore most of our adventures unfolded on foot as we took in the beauty of this City of a Hundred Spires.
It’s perhaps this stunning first impression that keeps bringing me back to Prague (or Praha, as it’s also called locally). I’ve lost count of how many times I have visited—a dozen? Maybe more? The city has changed, and so has my life. I can now afford a taxi, but still, my top way to navigate Prague remains a really good afternoon amble so I can immerse myself in the rhythm of the city. Here are my three favorite walking tours to explore this amazing Bohemian city.
Historic Old Town Walk: Jan Palach Square to Powder Gate Tower
Total walking time: 2-4 hours (depending on how long you decide to dance).

Prague’s famed Old Town (Stare Mesto) is the obvious place to start your walking adventures. The downside: yes, you will encounter many tourists. The upside: you will also take in many of the sights that make this city so special.
This walk slices through the heart of this city, then loops through beautiful streets more than 800 years in the making. I’m still fine with joining the masses for some of the big draws (like the astronomical clock), but love ducking into hidden corners for quirky fun, too.
Your stops
- Prague has one of the world’s most underrated rivers (can you even name it?). Broad and beautiful, the Vltava, or Moldau, in German, has inspired poems and waltzes, and is an excellent place for a little scenic tour (perhaps with a company like Prague Boats). Start here, on its banks, at Jan Palach Square, a green space where couples share benches and families gather on blankets under the sun. I’ll often grab a bench for a couple minutes and watch all the boat traffic on the surprisingly busy waterway.
- Czechs are some of the world’s greatest beer-drinkers, and you can fuel up for the road ahead just a five minute walk south at The Pub Praha, 1, the flagship of a small local chain. They serve the national beverage, pure and unpasteurized, and delivered directly from the brewery. (I like to order a half-liter of Pilsner Urquell, with a big steaming plate of traditional Czech roasted pork knuckle, if I’m really hungry.)
- About eight minutes straight east, winding through narrow streets, you’ll arrive at Old Town Square. The gothic spires of Our Lady Before Tyn, rising more than 200 feet above it all, are unmistakable, and look straight out of a dark fairytale. The basilica was built in the 14th century, and admission is free—it’s worth popping in to see the baroque interior. Then just look for the big crowd—they’ll be in front of the astronomical clock, unveiled in 1410 on the south side of Old Town Hall Tower. At the top of every hour here, you can see the medieval show—a skeleton ringing his bell, the parade of 12 apostles, and a trumpeter, blowing his horn to finish the spectacle.
- Loop a little east to have a look at the Powder Gate Tower, the Prasna Brana, where Czech kings once entered Old Town en route to their coronations. You can buy a ticket and climb to the top, more than 100 feet up. Then double back south around five minutes to see The Estates Theatre, where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni in 1787. Now part of the National Theatre, they still stage ballets, dramas and operas (including, often, Don Giovanni).
- Continue south for about 10 minutes to Rock Cafe. True story about Prague: the city has a strong link to rock and roll. Rock bands, including one called Plastic People of the Universe, were a major force in undermining communism, and Frank Zappa made one of the first state visits to Czechoslovakia once the Eastern Bloc was banished. Rock Cafe is the oldest club in Prague, and still hosts a steady schedule of musical acts. I visit often, and once met a member of the Habsburg royal family here. (Apparently, he was a regular.) Dancing is encouraged.
Hotel recommendation: Four Seasons Prague. Set right on the river, cushy rooms (many with views of the Prague Castle) are spread out between three unique and beautiful wings, each in its own historic building—Renaissance, Baroque, and Modern. In the summer, try and score a table at Miru, a rooftop restaurant with just four tables, that serves up a nine-course Japanese dinner.
Lesser Town Walk: Charles Bridge Walk to the Lennon Wall
Total walking time: 1-3 hours.

There’s nothing less about Lesser Town (Mala Strana). On the far side of the Vltava, the pace is a little slower here, and in shops and restaurants, you’re likely to rub shoulders with real-deal Prazan. And you’ll find some of the city’s coolest, tucked-away, less(er) visited attractions—all, of course, on foot.
Your stops
- Start by crossing the river from Old Town on the Charles Bridge. Many visitors, especially those in town for a couple days, will walk the length of it, take a few photos, then turn back. Don’t do that. Take some time to appreciate the bridge itself. Named for King Charles IV, who initiated construction in 1357, the stone span has three towers and more than 30 statues, each with its own story).
- Franz Kafka wasn’t the sunniest of writers, but he’s now recognized as one of the top literary figures of the 20th century. And he was from Prague. From the end of the bridge, make a right and proceed less than 10 minutes to the Franz Kafka Museum. Small but very well curated, the museum, located in a former brick factory, explores the city’s impact on the writer’s life. Afterward, have a quick look at the river behind and see if the otters are hanging out there.
- Just a block away, the paths of Vojanovy Sady await. This urban park isn’t on the main tourist track, but it’s perfect to continue your stroll, with gardens, magnolia trees, a pond, and free-roaming peacocks. I like to grab a latte (and maybe a slice of carrot cake) on the way at a cute little cafe called Cocovanka. (Noteworthy: the same place also serves a killer brunch.)
- Sure, yes, the John Lennon Wall is probably the most touristy thing to do on this side of the Vltava, but it’s still worth popping by. Walk about five to 10 minutes south, and look for big, colorful murals. It’s been a gathering place for protest and peace since the 1960s, and you’ll probably find at least a couple of people playing songs by the famous Beatle on guitar. Located across from the French Embassy, the Cafe de Paris is right there, too, if you’re craving a pretty good croque monsieur.
- Prague was once known as a city for magic, for those seeking the fountain of youth, and so much more. Head 10-15 minutes southeast toward the hill, and you’ll find the rather remarkable Museum of Alchemists and Magicians. Passionate guides will lead you around an actual 16th century lab. Then I like to pop into the pub next door, where you can order a frothing Dragon’s Breath cocktail.
Hotel Recommendation: Built in the 13th century, The Augustine was for centuries a monastery, and four monks still live there. No two rooms are the same, and the Tower Suite is stunning, three floors connected by an internal staircase. Falling asleep on the top floor bedroom, I was surrounded by 360-degree views of Lesser Town, the Castle, the river and the spires of Old Town.
The Castle to the New World Walk: Prague Castle to Petrin Park
Total walking time: 2-4 hours.

In many ways, this is the focal point of the entire city. Set up on a promontory overlooking all of central Prague, the Hrad (castle) has long been the center of political and religious life here. But it’s not just one building—a sprawling complex, explore defenestrations and deities and then go beyond, to suds and soaks.
Your stops
- Getting up to the Hrad is a scenic walk in itself, and, if you really want to get the blood pumping, take the Zamecke Schody. This narrow lane lined with 200+ stairs can be strenuous, but as you rise, the view over Prague just keeps getting better. Allow at least half an hour to account for photo stops and maybe a cup of coffee on the way. When I first visited the city, this was the route I took (although I’ve opted for tram number 22 on subsequent visits).
- Once you get to the top and enter the castle gates, you step into a different world. Vaclav Havel, the first president of the Czech Republic, was a poet and playwright and he had a flair for the dramatic. For the uniforms of the castle guard, he turned to an Oscar-winning costume designer, and when they march past, you indeed feel like you’re in a fantasy film. There’s really so much to see here, but the Old Royal Palace is a good place to start. Make sure to see the spot where three men were tossed out the window (the infamous 1618 Defenestration of Prague), sparking the Thirty Years War.
- Proceed along Třetí nádvoří Pražského street (which dips a bit south) to St.Vitus Cathedral, which is really the beating heart of the Czech nation. Their kings and queens were crowned in this gothic masterpiece, and Czech’s patron saints are buried there. After than, just wander around, visiting whatever buildings you fancy.
- After taking a short detour to pop into the various attractions along Golden Lane (the small houses here were once inhabited by alchemists, authors and artists), double back and head down to Petrin Park (Petrinske Sady). This is a real opportunity to stretch your legs, and the longest leg of the walk—it’ll take a half hour or more. But you’ll be rewarded. This hillside park has rose gardens and thousands of fruit trees, and the Petrin Tower, an one-fifth scale Eiffel look-alike. Ride to the lookout almost 200 feet up for more amazing views.
Hotel Recommendation: Spa Beerland Chateau was once the lab of an alchemist who determined that hops and yeast in warm water could cure body and mind. Today, you can slip into a warm beer bath of the same ingredients, with a frosty mug at your side, to feel all those many steps fade away. The chateau also has a small number of large, comfortable rooms on its second floor. Guests enjoy access to the baths, made from reclaimed beer barrels, and, a unique perk: unlimited unpasteurized beer from a keg on the main floor.