All Articles 3 perfect days in Savannah

3 perfect days in Savannah

By Mark Sullivan19 Feb 2024 11 minutes read
Old historic gravesites on Bonaventure Cemetery Savannah
Bonaventure Cemetery
Image: Getty Images/Martina Birnbaum

Savannah can feel both entirely new and like somewhere you've visited dozens of times before. You've likely seen the city's beauty on display in countless movies and shows so it's somehow familiar: the oak tree-lined streets dripping with Spanish moss, the colonial-style houses with their grand porches, the postcard-perfect squares—it's southern charm at its finest.

But in between the quaint and classic, you'll also find cool vintage shops, edgy art, and a trailblazing culinary scene that's worth checking out, too. In the itinerary below, we steer you to the top spots both old and new. Don’t just take our word for it—our picks are based on Tripadvisor ratings and real reviews.

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DAY ONE

Tree-lined path leading to fountain
Forsyth Park

MORNING: Start with a couple of the city’s showstoppers

Take a look at a map and one of the first things you notice about the Savannah Historic District is that it’s a checkerboard of pocket-sized parks. But the 30-acre Forsyth Park is bigger than the other 22 put together. The grand fountain at its center — one of the most beautiful spots in the city— was modeled after the plumes of water at the Place de la Concorde in Paris. The park has everything, including a great spot for breakfast called the Collins Quarter.

Head north on Bull Street for two blocks and you’ll reach shady Monterey Square. (Despite their actual shapes, most of the city’s parks are called squares.) On one side is the Mercer-Williams House Museum, a show-stopping brick mansion best known for its starring role in the real-life murder mystery Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. Tours skip over all that unpleasantness, so read up or watch the movie before your visit.

On the other side of the square is Congregation Mikve Israel, one of the country’s oldest synagogues. The current building, consecrated in 1878, is constructed in the neo-Gothic style popular with houses of worship at the time. (This was done purposefully, as the congregation didn’t want residents to see them as outsiders.)

AFTERNOON: Line up for one of the city’s best meals

It might seem a bit early to begin thinking about lunch, but not if you have your heart set on a meal at the nearby Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room. It’s a family-style place, which means you and 10 or 11 others will be seated together. The food—think pot roast or pulled pork—is worth sharing the table with strangers. People start queueing up to get in the door at 11 am.

Three blocks north and one block east is Madison Square, where you’ll find the Sorrel-Weed House Museum, a handsome Greek Revival mansion dating from 1862. (If you feel a chill as you walk by, it might be because the house is haunted. More on that later.) Another block east is Lafayette Square, dominated by the twin-spired Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. Dating from 1876, this basilica was built at about the same time as Congregation Mikve Israel. It’s in French-Gothic style, so everything is a little more ornate.

The nearby streets are lined with a dozen or so other historic homes that you can visit: the Italianate Andrew Low House, the Federal-style Davenport House, and the Gothic-Revival Green-Meldrim House. Don’t feel guilty passing them by as you make your way to the best of the bunch, the Owens-Thomas House and Slave Quarters. The beauty of this Regency-style mansion is more than skin deep. The curators have also restored the adjacent lodgings built for the family’s enslaved workers, letting visitors hear their stories and experience history from more than one angle.

EVENING: Southern cuisine in a historic setting

Before the sun sets, you might start feeling a little peckish. We wouldn’t argue with a quick stop at Leopold’s, an ice cream parlor with a neon sign that’s a blast from the past. (Our favorite is the lemon custard flavor, but the honey almond and cream is good, too.)

But don’t spoil your appetite. Make reservations at the Olde Pink House, which Tripadvisor readers swear serves “Southern cuisine at its finest.” This historic house is the place for crab cakes with fried green tomatoes or shrimp and grits with country ham gravy.

Head to nearby Congress Street for a nightcap, perhaps stopping at a swank speakeasy called the Peacock Lounge. It’s a little hard to find, so look for the blue neon over the door.

SAVANNAH HISTORIC DISTRICT AREA TOUR OPTIONS

  • Savannah is often called the “most haunted city in America.” Whether this is true or not, ghost tours are big business. You get the most thrills and chills for your buck at the Sorrel-Weed House Museum during its nightly Ghost Hunter Walking Tour. This is one of the few ghost tours that actually take you inside a historic home where there has been documented paranormal activity.
  • When it comes to Savannah, Brenna and T.C. Michaels literally wrote the book. Their guide, Hidden History of Savannah, is a treasure trove of little known facts about the Hostess City of the south. The pair share everything they know on their very popular Genteel & Bard’s Savannah History Walking Tour.
  • Although it’s not always in the history books, women have been leading the way in Savannah for generations. That’s why Genteel & Bard’s Women’s History Walking Tour is so refreshing. Trailblazers like Juliette Gordon Low (founder of the Girl Scouts) and Flannery O’Connor (pioneer of the Southern Gothic writing style) come vividly to life.

Travelers say: “Savannah’s charm is for everyone! Strolling around the historic district is enjoyable, no matter your agenda. Spend an afternoon in any of the squares. If you sit on a bench for a while, you’re guaranteed some excellent people watching! The historic homes are breathtaking. Don’t miss Savannah! The charm, romantic Spanish moss and storied history will draw you in!” —@Katelyn M

Worthy detours along the way

DAY TWO

Kids and parent at interactive art museum
Jepson Center & Telfair Children's Art Museum
Image: Adam Kuehl

MORNING: Relive that scene from Forrest Gump and see the Bird Girl

Start off this morning in Chippewa Square, perhaps the prettiest of Savannah’s nearly two dozen squares. The bench scene from Forrest Gump was filmed under these massive oak trees. The actual bench has been moved to the Savannah History Museum, but you can recreate this bit of movie history at one of the others, perhaps with a cup of coffee from Gallery Espresso across the street.

After admiring the tower of neon at the Historic Savannah Theatre, and perhaps making a note of what’s showing that evening, head a few blocks north and west to an expanse of gleaming stone called the Jepson Center for the Arts, a gallery for contemporary art that opened to the public in 2006. Head upstairs to the interactive children’s museum where younger visitors are encouraged to touch anything they want.

If modern art isn’t your thing, opt for the nearby Telfair Academy, set in a neoclassical mansion with a line of statues out front. Upstairs is the famous Bird Girl statue from “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”—it was moved here from the Bonaventure Cemetery to keep it safe from vandals. There’s no need to choose which arts center to visit—one admission ticket gets you into both.

AFTERNOON: Some tough decisions ahead

Arrive about 15 minutes early for the 1 pm tour of the First African Baptist Church, one of the oldest Black houses of worship in the country. On the National Register of Historic Places, the sanctuary was completed in 1859. Make sure to see the pews in the balcony, which were made by enslaved people and have carvings in Ancient Aramaic and other languages rarely spoken today.

How you have a tough decision to make: choose a restaurant here in the pedestrian-friendly area called City Market, or head down to the waterfront. It’s hard for us to be objective because so many of our favorite eateries are within a couple of blocks from where you’re standing. We’re going to recommend heading a few blocks east to the Little Duck Diner, a feast for the eyes and the stomach. Try the chicken and waffles, served here with spicy maple syrup. We promise, you won’t regret it. Other great options in the neighborhood include Sorry Charlie’s and The Lady and Sons.

To walk off all those calories, head down to Historic River Street, which for most of its length runs parallel to the Savannah River. Many of these old warehouses have been transformed into boutiques, bars, and restaurants whose clientele often spills out onto the street. The most pleasant place to take in the views is along Riverfront Plaza, a nine-block pedestrian strip right on the water’s edge. It’s the former location of the city’s cotton exchange.

EVENING: A gracious dinner and a raucous nightcap

There’s no shortage of snack shops along the waterfront, but as afternoon turns into evening we always stop in River Street Sweets for their world-famous pralines. There’s no point in asking for a bag, as you’ll finish them all before you’re a block away.

A favorite among Tripadvisor readers, B. Matthews sits across from Emmett Park just a few blocks from River Street. Warmed by a fireplace, the brick-walled dining room couldn’t feel cozier. Lowcountry standards like shrimp and grits with cherry heirloom tomatoes are the thing to order here, but our personal favorite is the roasted chicken pot pie.

For a nightcap, head around the corner to the cheekily named Abe’s on Lincoln. The decor of this diviest of dive bars consists entirely of drawings of the 16th president by inebriated patrons.

HISTORIC RIVER STREET AREA TOUR OPTIONS

  • One of the best ways to take in the waterfront is from a boat, especially if it happens to be an authentic riverboat. The Georgia Queen, a beauty painted red and white, offers 90-Minute Savannah River Sightseeing Cruises that depart from the dock behind City Hall.
  • Painted unmissable shades of green and orange, the open-sided buses used by the Savannah Hop-On, Hop-Off Trolley Tour shuttle passengers between City Market and Historic River Street, passing an unbelievable number of sights along the way.
  • Can’t decide where to stop for lunch? With the three-hour-long Savannah First Square Culinary Walking Tour you stop by six different eateries and get samples of their specialties. The tour ends in the middle of City Market.

Travelers say: “Great way to spend a day in Savannah! The view of the Savannah River was picturesque, especially bathed in warm sunlight. The historic riverside buildings added to the charm, creating an ideal backdrop for photos.We couldn’t resist stepping into the local shops, where we found some tasty treasures. We picked up delicious cookies from Byrds and indulged in mouthwatering caramel apples from Candy Kitchen.” —@Carlos L

Worthy detours along the way

DAY THREE

Lighthouse next to two-story pale-yellow house
Tybee Island Light Station
Image: Management/Tripadvisor

MORNING: Soaring obelisks and creepy crypts

On your third day, head to the delightful destination of Tybee Island. A car would be helpful for getting around, especially if you want to make stops along the way. However, plenty of tour companies offer itineraries that include this beautiful beach half an hour from the center of Savannah.

On your way to Tybee Island, make a stop at Bonaventure Cemetery. A burial ground since 1846, it has a lovely location on a bluff about the Wilmington River. The dramatic funereal displays — including soaring obelisks and creepy crypts — have made this a destination for more than a century. It played an important role in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

Also on the way to Tybee Island is Fort Pulaski National Monument, one of the best-surviving examples of a masonry fort from the 19th century. It was the site of a monumental battle during the Civil War, and you get a sense of the sound and fury during the daily artillery demonstrations.

AFTERNOON: Grab a bucket and head to the seaside

There’s nothing fancy about Salt Island Fish & Beer, and that suits locals just fine. The beer is cold, the fish is fried, and the best seats in the place are at the tables outside. We are still thinking about that oyster po boy we had there a while back.

Make sure that you climb the 178 steps to the top of Tybee Island Light Station and Museum, where you’ll be treated to 360-degree views of the island. This black-and-white lighthouse has been guiding ships safely into the Savannah River for more than 250 years. The lighthouse keeper’s house, trimmed with gingerbread, makes for great photo ops. Kids love the Tybee Island Marine Science Center, where they can grab buckets and head out with guides to the beach or the salt marsh in search of creatures great and small (mostly small).

EVENING: A high-minded take on Lowcountry cuisine

Head back to Savannah for a memorable meal. We have had great dinners at a.lure, a storefront eatery that serves updated takes on Lowcountry cuisine. Start with lump crab cakes with passion fruit tartar sauce, then move on to the chef’s take on meatloaf featuring ground beef tenderloin and foie gras. Finish off the evening with a stroll around nearby Franklin Square, named for the most colorful of the founding fathers.

GREATER SAVANNAH AREA TOUR OPTIONS

  • One of the city’s iconic sights, the 100-acre Bonaventure Cemetery is so sprawling that it’s easy to miss the highlights. Tripadvisor readers gave the Bonaventure Cemetery Walking Tour, and its knowledgeable tour guide, a best-of-the-best designation.
  • Zipping you around the island in a little more than an hour, the popular Historic Tour of Tybee Island tells the story of the region’s indigenous people, then breathlessly catches you up with what has happened here in the last 500 years or so.
  • If you don’t have a car, the Savannah to Tybee Island Tour gets you there with plenty of time to explore. It includes a cruise through the waterways around the island, and you’re likely to spot dolphins along the way.

Travelers say: “Fort Pulaski National Monument is a fine example of early coastal forts. It saw considerable action during the Civil War and has a very interesting history. I’ve visited a handful of coastal forts and this one stands out as the best and deserves its national monument designation.” —@Jeremie

Worthy detours along the way

Know Before You Go


If you want to see Savannah at its best, come in spring when the azalea blossoms turn the city's parks a dozen different shades of red, pink, and white. The days are warm and perfect for strolling around the city. You might need a light jacket for cool evenings. You'll find similar temperatures in the fall, which makes that our second favorite season to visit. Summer is hot and humid, making this a less-than-ideal time to visit unless your main destination is the nearby beach.



Savannah attracts a lot of weekenders throughout the year, so if you'd like to get away from the crowds make sure to visit mid-week. You'll have a much better chance of snagging a reservation at many of the top restaurants.



Savannah operates on the usual 9-to-5 schedule. This includes most of the museums and historic houses, so plan on visiting them earlier in the day.



If you're looking for Southern hospitality, consider the Perry Lane Hotel. It won nearly perfect scores in all categories from Tripadvisor readers, making it one of the city's "best of the best" lodgings. We thought the rooms were among the most elegant in the city, and the rooftop bar and the pool tucked away in the courtyard were great places to escape the afternoon heat and humidity.

In a former cotton warehouse dating from 1817, the River Inn has it all: a historic setting, beautifully decorated rooms, doting service, and waterfront views. Our room had a little balcony where we could watch cargo ships pass by. This is not the quietest part of town, as late-night revelers stroll the nearby streets. But if you'll also be celebrating, the location is perfect.



The best way to get around Savannah is your own two feet. In fact, you miss a lot if you don't take the time to meander through the parks and duck into the gardens of the historic houses. Pace yourself, though. The year-round humidity can take a lot out of you. But that's just an excuse to duck into a bar or café for something cool to drink.

Public transportation: Chatham Area Transit operates buses that fan out across the city. You'll probably find the free Express Shuttle their best option. It has 18 different stops around the city, including most of the historic sites.

By car: A car isn't necessary if you're staying within the city limits. But if you plan on heading out to Tybee Island or any of the other nearby destinations, having one will make your life much easier.

By pedicab: Take advantage of the pedicabs that will take you almost anywhere in the center of the city. They are economical, too, usually costing $1 a minute for a ride.

By taxi: After dark, taxis are one of the best ways to get around Savannah. This is doubly true if you're taking advantage of the city's nearly endless nightlife options. It's easy to hail one on the street as they cruise around the downtown streets. Ride sharing services Uber and Lyft also operate in Savannah.

Airport transfers: Chatham Area Transit runs shuttle buses to and from Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport. This is a good option if you don't have a lot of luggage weighing you down. Otherwise, there are plenty of taxis waiting at the terminal. You can also arrange for Uber or Lyft drivers to meet you there.


Mark Sullivan
Mark Sullivan is a longtime travel and lifestyle corespondent. He has written dozens of articles and has contributed to more than 200 travel guides.