Unforgettable snippet of history Not to be missed. Off the beaten track. Make it part of visit to bologna or Padua.

At nighttime, this medieval alley street (part of the Ferrara's historic Jewish Ghetto) transforms from a quiet sidestreet with plenty of old arches (thus, the name) to a magical doorway back to another era. The streetlamps glow and, barring the lack of authentic raw sewage or rotting animal carcases, you could be in the Middle Ages. Most of the old town of Ferrara has been power-washed, steam cleaned and made pretty (which I still enjoyed)... not Via delle Volte; I felt as if I could still sense the thousands of difficult lives who lived in this claustrophobic neighborhood. It was one of my favorite experiences in a recent trip to Italy.