Greenstone and Caples Tracks
Greenstone and Caples Tracks
Greenstone and Caples Tracks
4.5
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4.5
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Tim A
2 contributions
Jan 2022 • Family
A fantastic family hike over two nights / three days. Used Easy Hike to relocate our car from The Divide to the Greenstone car park. Easy Hike provided excellent service and advice at a reasonable cost.
Written 12 January 2022
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
ColinS070
Sunshine Coast, Australia607 contributions
Feb 2016 • Friends
We freedom hiked The Grand Traverse (a combo of Greenstone and Routeburn) as part of a small group organised by Dunedin Rotary Club. Ages ranged from about 55 to 76. When we met the group we thought they looked quite old but they must’ve thought same about us!
Glenorchy pub-cum-backpackers was the pre hike overnight and had a great night of meeting new friends whilst quaffing draft beer and good pub food. We were briefed by the two Rotarian group leaders as to the day-to-day routines ahead of us, which involved everyone carrying another couple kilos of food/cooking pots etc and pitching in with cooking, cleaning up and so forth.
Day 1 Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Falls Hut. 9 kms / approx. 5 hrs incl lunch stop at Routeburn Flats Hut
After a fair night’s sleep and a solid breakkie at the pub, we took minibuses for the drive into the start of the track called Routeburn Shelter. After reading all the info provided by DOC (Dept of Conservation) at the Shelter and taking the mandatory ‘start of track’ photos by the green/yellow track signs, we were on our way full of enthusiasm, and it starts as a nice gentle stroll along the Routeburn River, with great mountain scenery and beech forest surrounding. Some of the views of the river were superb – the blue water looked so clear.
Two hours in we reached Routeburn Flats Hut and were glad to get the packs off – they say day one is always the hardest! One of the guys had gone ahead and boiled the billy which was to be the daily routine, so we all could get a hot drink (tea/coffee/soup) and make our lunchtime sangers.
Feeling refreshed we were ready for the last bit uphill to Routeburn Falls, which we had been told was ‘a bit of a grunt’ – not wrong there! Its only 2.5kms but goes up from 750m to 1000m. At Phoenix Bluff, the track crosses a massive slip dating from January 1994, from where there are good clear views down onto the flats as they bend up the North Branch. The rocky track flattens off before clambering finally to the hut, and we made several stops going up and were glad to see the hut by about 3pm.
The public Routeburn Falls DOC hut where we stayed had fabulous views over the valley and Humboldt Mountains as it sits at the bush-line on a rocky saddle where the “Route burn” commences its drop to the Flats below. The hut has 48 bunks (with mattresses) in a communal sleeping layout, and it was chockers that night, so imagine the snoring, grunting, russling, middle of night wee walks and even a bit of popping off! Facilities are basic - flushing toilets, wash basins with cold water but no showers. Solar lighting in the communal kitchen area, and cooking facilities with fuel, tables and seating (but no cooking utensils). There was also a friendly DOC ranger named John who liked to chat about their area and tell you about the environment and weather forecast.
Then to the nearby showering facility - the falls have cut a small gorge, so we did some rock scrambling and braved it for a freezing cold freshen up, but felt the better for it
Our leader knew of a great viewpoint nearby (can’t recall the name) and still feeling fairly fresh, off we all went. He took us up the track towards the Harris Saddle a further km and then off up the hillside like billy goats to a rocky promontory which gave the most spectacular views back down the valley where we had come from that morning. It was fabulous to see it all laid out below the tree line. We had done the dip under the falls but were told the water in the ‘tarns’ up on the marshy areas was warmer so one gal took her swimmers and went into one of the pools! It was well worth it for the incredible views - round trip for that excursion was close to 4km
Day 2 Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut. 11+ kms / approx. 7 hrs incl lunch stop at Harris Saddle Shelter
The hike to Lake Mackenzie Hut is longer and a little harder. The trail is marked by red topped iron stakes, and is simply spectacular. Leaving the Falls hut it’s a rocky track scramble zig zagging over the barren landscape by the water falls for about 15 minutes, then it opens onto the relative calm of a flat sub-alpine basin, with the river meandering in long bends through the grasses hemmed in by steep bluffs - just sublime tramping, in what is like a peaceful secret valley. The track begins to climb the left hand hillside on a narrow, rocky trail. It’s hard going and we stop a few times for scroggin and a drink of water, but oh what stunning scenes are opening up as we climb, then a cascade marks the outlet of Lake Harris, with the lake itself appearing suddenly as the track climbs higher. It’s so pretty that the cameras are working overtime, whilst the climb persists, leading higher to tall bluffs on a track that has shear drops to the side. The highest point of the track is along this section, with views down onto the beautiful lake and along the valley that feeds it, then a gap appears to the left and the track crosses the Harris Saddle and drops to the Harris Saddle DOC Shelter amongst a few small tarns.
What a stunning lunch stop at 1255m and how good was that cuppa soup! We opted out of a 1 hour hike up the side track to Conical Hill, but several others from the group did it and they got great views out to the Tasman Sea in the lovely clear weather we were experiencing.
So far we were just loving this day of the track, typifying what you imagine of the great New Zealand outdoors, and we were quickly forming the view that the Routeburn Track was indeed better that the Milford Track which we did in 2011.
It must have been about 1:30pm by the time we got moving and our next leg was to our overnight stop at Lake Mackenzie Hut. This part of the track is quite exposed so we were glad we had a lovely sunny day to tramp with regular stops to enjoy the beautiful vistas as the gaping expanse of the Hollyford valley opens out. Dominated by glacial features, clouds enshroud the beautiful forms of the mountains opposite a wee bit but it’s just gorgeous. The track sidles along the Hollyford Face over about 5kms and 1000+m below, the Hollyford River can be made out winding along the floor of its long north-south valley. But don’t be fooled as this is an isolated and dangerous area, and it’s not always as good as we saw, and more often than not, the track is exposed to winds blowing along the valley, heavy rain and low visibility. The Rotary group that did the track a week and a half before us, saw nothing but cloud and it rained constantly!
New Zealand’s national bird, the Kea, inhabits this area and we saw many and even got a few good photos as they cackled in the bushes awaiting some tid bits from the hikers.
The track meets the Deadman's Track - a side track only for seriously nutty hikers dropping directly down the steep mountainside to the tree-line, and thence to the Hollyford Road. We’d never attempt it in our wildest dreams, as it is steep, dangerous, and slow going.
A bit further on we meet a lone tramper heading in opposite direction – he was a DOC Ranger carting chicken wire and tools to do some track maintenance, and we later found he was Clive (our DOC ranger at Lake Mackenzie) as each hut ranger is responsible for maintenance a couple of kms either side of their hut.
Eventually the level track climbs a bit then bends abruptly leftwards around some rocky outcrops and Lake Mackenzie appears below to your right with the hut to one end – “great” you think – “not far now!” But not so as this is the toughest part of the day as the track traverses and descends for at least 1.5 hours towards Lake Mackenzie with a series of zig-zags through the bush. We were all getting quite weary at this point, suffice to say we are a long way from our formative years. The track enters trees and crosses the valley floor at the lake end soon after we arrived at Lake Mackenzie Hut. This is a 50 bunk DOC hut in a beautiful sub-alpine lake setting. Being late arrivals we again found only top bunks but this time the configuration was 4 up and four down, so we had four mattresses in a line so were in for a very snuggly night.
It was 31 degrees during the day so we were absolutely desperate for a refreshing dip, so time to brave the icy waters of the lake. Lasted about a minute in the iciness, and then sunbaked on the grassy shoreline!
After dinner the DOC Ranger Clive gave his talk – the guy’s a Pom by origin who has been there for 24 years, and makes his talk a magical comedy routine, but relevant to the area – he’s retiring next year and writing a book, and I reckon it would be a great read!
Day 3 Lake Mackenzie Hut to (Greenstone) Track Ultimate Hikes McKellar Lodge. 10+ kms / approx. 5 hrs incl lunch stop at Lake Howden Hut
As we were getting ready there was a lot of foot repair going on – one lady had blistered badly and was getting bandaged up, and many others had same or bruised toes – myself included. Despite all those damaged feet I never heard one word of complaint from anyone, and we all kept plodding on.
The track climbs slightly and eases past numerous small falls on a rock trail, and “The Orchard” is passed after an hour. This is an open area with a tarn and scattered ribbonwood that resemble the trees of some abandoned orchard. The Earland Falls (175m fall) are another 45 minutes, and were spectacular, and may become impassable in really wet weather. We stopped to soak up the scenery, and then beyond the Earland Falls the track descends gently for about an hour, soon crossing a small bridge, then another bridge over Pass Creek before the track turns onto the boardwalk over the fragile valley floor to Howden Hut, and about 50m from the hut there is a small stream running where we saw brown trout.
Howden DOC Hut was a lunch stop for us but for overnighters it sleeps 28. Most people doing the Routeburn carry on past Howden and the track meanders through silver beech forest to the he tracks end at ‘The Divide’ – a further 1.5hrs away. At this lunch stop point we were met by four guys from Fiordland Rotary who had carried in fresh supplies from The Divide and who would carry out our rubbish.
So after lunch we turned south onto the Greenstone Track which begins here; past Lake Howden along the line of the Livingstone Fault. It’s 45 mins along this track to the beginning of the Caples Track. This afternoon’s hike was on mossy lined paths alongside the lake in lovely beech forest, and very pleasant, but it seemed to take forever, so we stopped a few times alongside babbling streams to soak up the peace and quiet of the forest.
McKellar Lodge was our first bit of “hiking luxury” as it’s NOT a DOC hut – it’s privately owned by Ultimate Hikes and has much more space as well as hot showers! Yee Haa. It has generator power from 5-10pm. The sleeping arrangements were double bunks with pillows and duvets and only four bunks to a room and we slept very much better than first couple of nights
Day 4 McKellar Lodge to Steele Creek Lodge. 16 kms / approx. 6 hrs incl lunch stop at 2nd rock slide
The walk is pretty good going out along the Greenstone Valley first passing the DOC Hut, then through a sea of tussock grasses along the river flats. Several sections climb through ancient pines and cottonwoods clinging to the sheer mountain sides and spectacular views of the Ailsa and Livingstone Ranges. These couple of days we spent in the Greenstone showed the superb diversity of natural features in this area which really complemented what we’d experienced on the Routeburn. Again it re-enforced what our hiking buddy Paul had originally told us about this being the pick of all the hikes in NZ.
Eventually ‘rock slide 1’ is reached – I’d never seen such huge boulders forming a slide and the slide itself went hundreds of metres uphill. The track across the slide had to be taken with caution. Soon ‘rock slide 2’ arrived and then the lunch stop.
There were a few boggy bits of track and then we came alongside a beautiful clear river and had seen signs reading “Beat 1” and “Beat 2” which mark the extremities of fishing zones on the Upper Greenstone which is separated into 3 beats, so a fisherman buys a licence giving right to a particular beat. At the edge of beat 3 we climbed a gate and the Steele Creek Lodge came into view about a km away, so feeling uplifted we pounded on across the beautiful valley to a 2nd night of “hiking luxury” as again it’s an Ultimate Hikes Hut but not quite as good as the previous night.
We decided to take a walk down to Steele Creek and maybe take a dip, but when we got there it was running pretty fast and was very rocky, so we settled for a nice rocky perch and dipping our sore feet into the icy flow – hoping it would ease the aches and pains!
During dinner we got the bad news for the last days walk out to Elfin Bay. The coach was booked for 1:30pm ex the Elfin bay car park and it was a 19km hike, so that meant a 6:30 breakkie and 7:30hrs departure!
Day 5 Steele Creek Lodge to Greenstone carpark. 19 kms / approx. 6 hrs incl lunch stop beside creek
Sarnies had been made the night before to save time, and Breakkie was pretty hurried as we were all keen to get on the track for the long walk out. We had a lightish pack today but the thought of 19kms was hurting already. One fella (age 73) was in trouble as his boot sole had separated but luckily one of the guys had a roll of duct tape and he had his boots repaired as best as could be ready for the big one.
It’s not very warm at 7:00am in the NZ mountains so we were all rugged up and in the pre-dawn light we headed out along the grassy flats of the riverbed amidst grazing cattle, with views of sunlight hitting Mt Christina rewarding us as we briskly strolled the river flats to keep warm, as the sun hadn’t risen properly yet. Again, although it was the last day, the scenery was simply gob-smacking. There’s something magically inspiring about hiking along in wildly remote places breathing the world’s cleanest air. After about 3kms of flats the track took to the hillside beech forest and climbed a tad, but not much. We found a magical fungus laden log to sit on for a breather and some scroggin, then off we went again, knowing that every step was one closer to the end as we’d had enough!
Next we came across an obstacle simply called ‘Slip Flat’ where there was a pretty strong flowing stream to cross, but the guys charted the best route through for the girls and we all made it without wet feet, then a short way on we found a grassy knoll bathed in sunshine to rest up on. Suddenly out of the trees opposite appeared a lone fisherman – heaven knows how he got there and where he was staying!
Another rock slide; a collapsed creek bank and a diversion around; then a lovely walk along yet another crystal clear riverbank amongst the beeches and pines. Finally we found the lunch stop alongside a creek and flopped down on the mossy bank for a rest and some soup and the lovely sangers made the night before!
Then the last 1.5 hours of the tramp through land known as “Ka Whenua Roimata - Land of Tears”, (in recognition of the Maori tribe's historic suffering). It comprises 33,400 hectares of land around and inland from the north-western shore of Lake Wakatipu.
By 12:45 we arrived at Greenstone carpark which was just 12 kms south of Kinloch and 40kms from Glenorchy where we started from 5 days ago. But doing the loop around the Routeburn we had covered almost 70kms of the best tramping track in the world and we felt simply ecstatic. There was much cuddling, back slapping and of course mandatory ‘end of track’ photos! The minibuses arrived and we were soon on the narrow road up to Glenorchy – slight hiccup with a tyre blowout but only a 10 minute delay and we were soon back at the start point and loading the coach for the run back to Queenstown. The coach driver was most accommodating and allowed us time to zip into the pub for a couple of rounds of draft beers, which slipped down a treat!
Glenorchy pub-cum-backpackers was the pre hike overnight and had a great night of meeting new friends whilst quaffing draft beer and good pub food. We were briefed by the two Rotarian group leaders as to the day-to-day routines ahead of us, which involved everyone carrying another couple kilos of food/cooking pots etc and pitching in with cooking, cleaning up and so forth.
Day 1 Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Falls Hut. 9 kms / approx. 5 hrs incl lunch stop at Routeburn Flats Hut
After a fair night’s sleep and a solid breakkie at the pub, we took minibuses for the drive into the start of the track called Routeburn Shelter. After reading all the info provided by DOC (Dept of Conservation) at the Shelter and taking the mandatory ‘start of track’ photos by the green/yellow track signs, we were on our way full of enthusiasm, and it starts as a nice gentle stroll along the Routeburn River, with great mountain scenery and beech forest surrounding. Some of the views of the river were superb – the blue water looked so clear.
Two hours in we reached Routeburn Flats Hut and were glad to get the packs off – they say day one is always the hardest! One of the guys had gone ahead and boiled the billy which was to be the daily routine, so we all could get a hot drink (tea/coffee/soup) and make our lunchtime sangers.
Feeling refreshed we were ready for the last bit uphill to Routeburn Falls, which we had been told was ‘a bit of a grunt’ – not wrong there! Its only 2.5kms but goes up from 750m to 1000m. At Phoenix Bluff, the track crosses a massive slip dating from January 1994, from where there are good clear views down onto the flats as they bend up the North Branch. The rocky track flattens off before clambering finally to the hut, and we made several stops going up and were glad to see the hut by about 3pm.
The public Routeburn Falls DOC hut where we stayed had fabulous views over the valley and Humboldt Mountains as it sits at the bush-line on a rocky saddle where the “Route burn” commences its drop to the Flats below. The hut has 48 bunks (with mattresses) in a communal sleeping layout, and it was chockers that night, so imagine the snoring, grunting, russling, middle of night wee walks and even a bit of popping off! Facilities are basic - flushing toilets, wash basins with cold water but no showers. Solar lighting in the communal kitchen area, and cooking facilities with fuel, tables and seating (but no cooking utensils). There was also a friendly DOC ranger named John who liked to chat about their area and tell you about the environment and weather forecast.
Then to the nearby showering facility - the falls have cut a small gorge, so we did some rock scrambling and braved it for a freezing cold freshen up, but felt the better for it
Our leader knew of a great viewpoint nearby (can’t recall the name) and still feeling fairly fresh, off we all went. He took us up the track towards the Harris Saddle a further km and then off up the hillside like billy goats to a rocky promontory which gave the most spectacular views back down the valley where we had come from that morning. It was fabulous to see it all laid out below the tree line. We had done the dip under the falls but were told the water in the ‘tarns’ up on the marshy areas was warmer so one gal took her swimmers and went into one of the pools! It was well worth it for the incredible views - round trip for that excursion was close to 4km
Day 2 Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut. 11+ kms / approx. 7 hrs incl lunch stop at Harris Saddle Shelter
The hike to Lake Mackenzie Hut is longer and a little harder. The trail is marked by red topped iron stakes, and is simply spectacular. Leaving the Falls hut it’s a rocky track scramble zig zagging over the barren landscape by the water falls for about 15 minutes, then it opens onto the relative calm of a flat sub-alpine basin, with the river meandering in long bends through the grasses hemmed in by steep bluffs - just sublime tramping, in what is like a peaceful secret valley. The track begins to climb the left hand hillside on a narrow, rocky trail. It’s hard going and we stop a few times for scroggin and a drink of water, but oh what stunning scenes are opening up as we climb, then a cascade marks the outlet of Lake Harris, with the lake itself appearing suddenly as the track climbs higher. It’s so pretty that the cameras are working overtime, whilst the climb persists, leading higher to tall bluffs on a track that has shear drops to the side. The highest point of the track is along this section, with views down onto the beautiful lake and along the valley that feeds it, then a gap appears to the left and the track crosses the Harris Saddle and drops to the Harris Saddle DOC Shelter amongst a few small tarns.
What a stunning lunch stop at 1255m and how good was that cuppa soup! We opted out of a 1 hour hike up the side track to Conical Hill, but several others from the group did it and they got great views out to the Tasman Sea in the lovely clear weather we were experiencing.
So far we were just loving this day of the track, typifying what you imagine of the great New Zealand outdoors, and we were quickly forming the view that the Routeburn Track was indeed better that the Milford Track which we did in 2011.
It must have been about 1:30pm by the time we got moving and our next leg was to our overnight stop at Lake Mackenzie Hut. This part of the track is quite exposed so we were glad we had a lovely sunny day to tramp with regular stops to enjoy the beautiful vistas as the gaping expanse of the Hollyford valley opens out. Dominated by glacial features, clouds enshroud the beautiful forms of the mountains opposite a wee bit but it’s just gorgeous. The track sidles along the Hollyford Face over about 5kms and 1000+m below, the Hollyford River can be made out winding along the floor of its long north-south valley. But don’t be fooled as this is an isolated and dangerous area, and it’s not always as good as we saw, and more often than not, the track is exposed to winds blowing along the valley, heavy rain and low visibility. The Rotary group that did the track a week and a half before us, saw nothing but cloud and it rained constantly!
New Zealand’s national bird, the Kea, inhabits this area and we saw many and even got a few good photos as they cackled in the bushes awaiting some tid bits from the hikers.
The track meets the Deadman's Track - a side track only for seriously nutty hikers dropping directly down the steep mountainside to the tree-line, and thence to the Hollyford Road. We’d never attempt it in our wildest dreams, as it is steep, dangerous, and slow going.
A bit further on we meet a lone tramper heading in opposite direction – he was a DOC Ranger carting chicken wire and tools to do some track maintenance, and we later found he was Clive (our DOC ranger at Lake Mackenzie) as each hut ranger is responsible for maintenance a couple of kms either side of their hut.
Eventually the level track climbs a bit then bends abruptly leftwards around some rocky outcrops and Lake Mackenzie appears below to your right with the hut to one end – “great” you think – “not far now!” But not so as this is the toughest part of the day as the track traverses and descends for at least 1.5 hours towards Lake Mackenzie with a series of zig-zags through the bush. We were all getting quite weary at this point, suffice to say we are a long way from our formative years. The track enters trees and crosses the valley floor at the lake end soon after we arrived at Lake Mackenzie Hut. This is a 50 bunk DOC hut in a beautiful sub-alpine lake setting. Being late arrivals we again found only top bunks but this time the configuration was 4 up and four down, so we had four mattresses in a line so were in for a very snuggly night.
It was 31 degrees during the day so we were absolutely desperate for a refreshing dip, so time to brave the icy waters of the lake. Lasted about a minute in the iciness, and then sunbaked on the grassy shoreline!
After dinner the DOC Ranger Clive gave his talk – the guy’s a Pom by origin who has been there for 24 years, and makes his talk a magical comedy routine, but relevant to the area – he’s retiring next year and writing a book, and I reckon it would be a great read!
Day 3 Lake Mackenzie Hut to (Greenstone) Track Ultimate Hikes McKellar Lodge. 10+ kms / approx. 5 hrs incl lunch stop at Lake Howden Hut
As we were getting ready there was a lot of foot repair going on – one lady had blistered badly and was getting bandaged up, and many others had same or bruised toes – myself included. Despite all those damaged feet I never heard one word of complaint from anyone, and we all kept plodding on.
The track climbs slightly and eases past numerous small falls on a rock trail, and “The Orchard” is passed after an hour. This is an open area with a tarn and scattered ribbonwood that resemble the trees of some abandoned orchard. The Earland Falls (175m fall) are another 45 minutes, and were spectacular, and may become impassable in really wet weather. We stopped to soak up the scenery, and then beyond the Earland Falls the track descends gently for about an hour, soon crossing a small bridge, then another bridge over Pass Creek before the track turns onto the boardwalk over the fragile valley floor to Howden Hut, and about 50m from the hut there is a small stream running where we saw brown trout.
Howden DOC Hut was a lunch stop for us but for overnighters it sleeps 28. Most people doing the Routeburn carry on past Howden and the track meanders through silver beech forest to the he tracks end at ‘The Divide’ – a further 1.5hrs away. At this lunch stop point we were met by four guys from Fiordland Rotary who had carried in fresh supplies from The Divide and who would carry out our rubbish.
So after lunch we turned south onto the Greenstone Track which begins here; past Lake Howden along the line of the Livingstone Fault. It’s 45 mins along this track to the beginning of the Caples Track. This afternoon’s hike was on mossy lined paths alongside the lake in lovely beech forest, and very pleasant, but it seemed to take forever, so we stopped a few times alongside babbling streams to soak up the peace and quiet of the forest.
McKellar Lodge was our first bit of “hiking luxury” as it’s NOT a DOC hut – it’s privately owned by Ultimate Hikes and has much more space as well as hot showers! Yee Haa. It has generator power from 5-10pm. The sleeping arrangements were double bunks with pillows and duvets and only four bunks to a room and we slept very much better than first couple of nights
Day 4 McKellar Lodge to Steele Creek Lodge. 16 kms / approx. 6 hrs incl lunch stop at 2nd rock slide
The walk is pretty good going out along the Greenstone Valley first passing the DOC Hut, then through a sea of tussock grasses along the river flats. Several sections climb through ancient pines and cottonwoods clinging to the sheer mountain sides and spectacular views of the Ailsa and Livingstone Ranges. These couple of days we spent in the Greenstone showed the superb diversity of natural features in this area which really complemented what we’d experienced on the Routeburn. Again it re-enforced what our hiking buddy Paul had originally told us about this being the pick of all the hikes in NZ.
Eventually ‘rock slide 1’ is reached – I’d never seen such huge boulders forming a slide and the slide itself went hundreds of metres uphill. The track across the slide had to be taken with caution. Soon ‘rock slide 2’ arrived and then the lunch stop.
There were a few boggy bits of track and then we came alongside a beautiful clear river and had seen signs reading “Beat 1” and “Beat 2” which mark the extremities of fishing zones on the Upper Greenstone which is separated into 3 beats, so a fisherman buys a licence giving right to a particular beat. At the edge of beat 3 we climbed a gate and the Steele Creek Lodge came into view about a km away, so feeling uplifted we pounded on across the beautiful valley to a 2nd night of “hiking luxury” as again it’s an Ultimate Hikes Hut but not quite as good as the previous night.
We decided to take a walk down to Steele Creek and maybe take a dip, but when we got there it was running pretty fast and was very rocky, so we settled for a nice rocky perch and dipping our sore feet into the icy flow – hoping it would ease the aches and pains!
During dinner we got the bad news for the last days walk out to Elfin Bay. The coach was booked for 1:30pm ex the Elfin bay car park and it was a 19km hike, so that meant a 6:30 breakkie and 7:30hrs departure!
Day 5 Steele Creek Lodge to Greenstone carpark. 19 kms / approx. 6 hrs incl lunch stop beside creek
Sarnies had been made the night before to save time, and Breakkie was pretty hurried as we were all keen to get on the track for the long walk out. We had a lightish pack today but the thought of 19kms was hurting already. One fella (age 73) was in trouble as his boot sole had separated but luckily one of the guys had a roll of duct tape and he had his boots repaired as best as could be ready for the big one.
It’s not very warm at 7:00am in the NZ mountains so we were all rugged up and in the pre-dawn light we headed out along the grassy flats of the riverbed amidst grazing cattle, with views of sunlight hitting Mt Christina rewarding us as we briskly strolled the river flats to keep warm, as the sun hadn’t risen properly yet. Again, although it was the last day, the scenery was simply gob-smacking. There’s something magically inspiring about hiking along in wildly remote places breathing the world’s cleanest air. After about 3kms of flats the track took to the hillside beech forest and climbed a tad, but not much. We found a magical fungus laden log to sit on for a breather and some scroggin, then off we went again, knowing that every step was one closer to the end as we’d had enough!
Next we came across an obstacle simply called ‘Slip Flat’ where there was a pretty strong flowing stream to cross, but the guys charted the best route through for the girls and we all made it without wet feet, then a short way on we found a grassy knoll bathed in sunshine to rest up on. Suddenly out of the trees opposite appeared a lone fisherman – heaven knows how he got there and where he was staying!
Another rock slide; a collapsed creek bank and a diversion around; then a lovely walk along yet another crystal clear riverbank amongst the beeches and pines. Finally we found the lunch stop alongside a creek and flopped down on the mossy bank for a rest and some soup and the lovely sangers made the night before!
Then the last 1.5 hours of the tramp through land known as “Ka Whenua Roimata - Land of Tears”, (in recognition of the Maori tribe's historic suffering). It comprises 33,400 hectares of land around and inland from the north-western shore of Lake Wakatipu.
By 12:45 we arrived at Greenstone carpark which was just 12 kms south of Kinloch and 40kms from Glenorchy where we started from 5 days ago. But doing the loop around the Routeburn we had covered almost 70kms of the best tramping track in the world and we felt simply ecstatic. There was much cuddling, back slapping and of course mandatory ‘end of track’ photos! The minibuses arrived and we were soon on the narrow road up to Glenorchy – slight hiccup with a tyre blowout but only a 10 minute delay and we were soon back at the start point and loading the coach for the run back to Queenstown. The coach driver was most accommodating and allowed us time to zip into the pub for a couple of rounds of draft beers, which slipped down a treat!
Written 4 June 2016
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Christopher Breen
Auckland Central, New Zealand15 contributions
Nov 2018
do 31km of the track in one day. A group of us set out on a beautiful November day with a view to do a four day trek in three. Big mistake. A redeeming feature was the weather, we were lucky. Take plenty of gas for your cookers, things were getting dire for a cuppa on the last day, but we used the hust fire box to boil water. As always you will enjoy it more if you are fitter. Take your time enjoy the view, particularly at the saddle, and at the huts. Heaps of drinkable water from the fast moving streams and rivers. Lots of water crossings, some quite challenging, so have people with you. Sturdy footwear a must. Huts are of a high quality, make sure you have your tickets, as the wardens will be checking. Heavy rain in the area means that path can get covered in branches and fallen trees. Pack light.
Written 9 December 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
travelnomadNZ
Cambridge, New Zealand3,754 contributions
Dec 2012
I really enjoyed this track. Everyone does the routeburn track but this track is just as good and it is not a great walk. It has some amazing views. It is also known to be great for fly fishing and contains rare fauna and flora. It's a must do if you have time. It's best done from lake Wakatipu end
Written 31 July 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Alice M
17 contributions
Dec 2018 • Friends
Walked up the Caples and down the Greenstone. This was an amazing walk with beautiful scenery; rivers, mountains, bush, valleys, tussock, and wildlife. Particularly exciting was the deer we saw at the Greenstone hut and on the track when we were walking out. It was reasonably easy walking most days, the 2nd day over the saddle was a bit challenging as it was a couple of hours constantly uphill
Written 5 December 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
julietbreen
Auckland Central, New Zealand55 contributions
Nov 2018 • Friends
The Greenstone Caples track was fantastic. We completed the loop anticlockwise, making a big day of it first up with 31kms from car park to the McKeller Hut. It took us about 10 hours and I would say I walk at an average speed. Track is mostly flat, small ups and downs until you climb to the saddle. Following the saddle is a steep switch back as you track down to the Hut. There had been very heavy rains in the days leading up to our trek so there was quite a few Stream/river crossings and boggy patches. Day two was from McKeller to the Greenstone Hut which was again mostly undulating terrain that follows the river. This portion was about 6 hours but only 18 kms. Greenstone Hut is set in a beautiful clearing. We arrived with plenty of time to enjoy the afternoon sun on the large deck. Day three was the trek out and is fairly flat and only about 3.5hrs at a fast pace. A really great walk. The Doc Huts aren’t bookable but we had no problem with finding a spare bunk. Might be advisable to bring a sleeping mat in the peak season.
Written 11 November 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
AshleyDevon
Glasgow, UK131 contributions
Dec 2016 • Friends
Even though the track was like a swamp, It was incredible. The views you get are absolutely incredible! I can definitely recommend to make clothing choices for mud being above ankle deep in some places
Written 24 February 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
walkingwithali
Singapore, Singapore285 contributions
Sept 2015 • Couples
It was a beautiful tramp but could have been better if we'd gone into it with the proper expectations.
First of all, we expected to be finished with the hike within 2 or 3 days. We went around the lake on the first day which set us back about 1.5 days and we felt that we've 'under performed' on the hike.
Secondly, we checked in at DOC for some maps and updates on the routes before hitting the tracks. We asked about getting bug spray and were informed that there aren't any sandflies at that time in Spring. We were there at the end of September 2015. Boy, was that ever wrong. There were sandflies on the first day we were there after we set up camp. So, tip is to go with bug spray especially when the earth starts getting softer and mushier from the melted snow.
Which brings me to the third point on seasons. The earth gets pretty soft and mushy at this time. We had our feet ankle deep in mud many times when we crossed through the river flats. Although this isn't exactly what we would consider to be a set back, it was indeed unpleasant. Thank goodness for the trekking poles which helped us avoid sinking into mud 95% of the time we crossed muddy grounds. If you are thinking of chucking those poles at home, don't. Just bring them and store them in your bag for when you need them especially in Spring.
First of all, we expected to be finished with the hike within 2 or 3 days. We went around the lake on the first day which set us back about 1.5 days and we felt that we've 'under performed' on the hike.
Secondly, we checked in at DOC for some maps and updates on the routes before hitting the tracks. We asked about getting bug spray and were informed that there aren't any sandflies at that time in Spring. We were there at the end of September 2015. Boy, was that ever wrong. There were sandflies on the first day we were there after we set up camp. So, tip is to go with bug spray especially when the earth starts getting softer and mushier from the melted snow.
Which brings me to the third point on seasons. The earth gets pretty soft and mushy at this time. We had our feet ankle deep in mud many times when we crossed through the river flats. Although this isn't exactly what we would consider to be a set back, it was indeed unpleasant. Thank goodness for the trekking poles which helped us avoid sinking into mud 95% of the time we crossed muddy grounds. If you are thinking of chucking those poles at home, don't. Just bring them and store them in your bag for when you need them especially in Spring.
Written 8 February 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
noeline59
Queenstown, New Zealand9 contributions
the walk to the 1st swing bridge was fabulous. the river such a amazing green colour
Written 20 March 2012
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
classicchch
Christchurch, New Zealand381 contributions
Nov 2018 • Solo
I did the Greenstone track starting at Lake Wakatipu end. There was snow down to the tree line and constant rain. Good shelter at the start and information boards useful. Generally though there could have been many more route markers along the entire route, especially when out in the open and the track can be covered with snow. Sometimes I was unsure of track direction, but never took a wrong turn.
Stayed at Greenstone and McKellar huts, both modern and new and a pleasure to stay at, both with flush toilets.
Overcast weather on day two which was nice. I only saw one other person on the track on the first two days, still early in the hiking season. Planes and helicopters did disturb the peaceful walk.
Track in many locations was actually a stream and there was no chance of keeping dry feet. Track was very easy going with very little climbing. Scenery was good, but mountain tops constantly hidden by the clouds.
Finished the tramp at the Routeburn.
Stayed at Greenstone and McKellar huts, both modern and new and a pleasure to stay at, both with flush toilets.
Overcast weather on day two which was nice. I only saw one other person on the track on the first two days, still early in the hiking season. Planes and helicopters did disturb the peaceful walk.
Track in many locations was actually a stream and there was no chance of keeping dry feet. Track was very easy going with very little climbing. Scenery was good, but mountain tops constantly hidden by the clouds.
Finished the tramp at the Routeburn.
Written 10 November 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
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