Walk Beirut
About
10 years and walking! WalkBeirut's concept remains simple: get to know Beirut by foot. We believe our city can be best explained through storytelling, and we've come up with a walking route that is pedestrian-friendly and brings you to neighborhoods we think are critical in grasping Beirut's diverse history. Roughly four hours long, the tour includes plenty of places to sit and rest. All you need to bring is a bottle of water and comfortable shoes, and we'll take care of the rest! Walk with us through our city's revitalization in recent years, as we share experiences of tragedy and transformation.
Beirut, Lebanon

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Jcc_ist
Istanbul, Türkiye145 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
May 2011 • Friends
What? 9 days in Lebanon?

This was the first sentence I had heard from my colleagues. My original plan was to visit Syria and Lebanon but due to the situation in Syria I had to skip it because of safety reasons. So, I had 9 days to spend in Lebanon and thought ok in the worst case scenario I would see Jeita Grotto, Baalbek and some other parts and just sit in a café, read a book or get a bit bored:(

Guess what happened? I barely found time to sit in a café! From Istanbul to Beirut it was a short flight, arrival was fine without any problem. We took a taxi from the airport right to Embassy Hotel. For us it was convenient to stay at the same hotel for the whole trip because the price was ok for us and the places to be visited were not so far. I have to add that for those who are over 60-65 kg they may find the beds uncomfortable.

The National museum was very interesting, well organized and the video showing how the place survived the war was very impressive. I do recommend watching it. Did we get lost in the city? Yes of course we did but we like getting lost! Just by chance we found the confectionary Rafik Al-Rachidi which was opened 100 years ago (I have no clue whether this info is right but all the things we bought were delicious).

For Baalbek we hired a driver which is the most convenient way (our driver was an honest, helpful man, for those who want contact info, may send me a mail). I do recommend to take a guide for Baalbek it costs 20 $. Sometimes it was hard to understand his English but in general we got a lot of interesting information about the carvings, the history etc. Near to it is a stone which was cleaned and protected by a man called Afi. Before him people used that place as dumping site. He himself tried to convince local authorities, cleaned the place several times and finally succeeded but after he leaves it’s not sure whether they’ll keep it. Just to praise his effort I think it would be nice to pay a visit and write to his guestbook.

Ksara winery was ok but I didn’t like the wines very much. May be I chose the wrong ones.

Since we wanted to mingle with locals we went to Tripoli by bus. I think the company name was Commnex. First thing we went to Rafaat Hallab to taste the sweets but compared to Turkish ones I didn’t like it. For those who find Turkish sweets too sweet may like the one in Lebanon. Everyone adds the syrup according to his taste. In Tripoli we could not communicate in English. We were lucky that the bus stopped in front of tourist information centre. Just as we were covering ourselves to enter the Great Mosque, Ali Khawaja found us, who is mentioned in a very well-known guide book. He was a funny guy; we decided to take him as a guide since people did not know English. When you say you are from Turkey he says that his ancestors were from Istanbul. Afterwards we learned that his ancestors are all over the world! Of course first you’ve to name from which country you are and he’ll say my ancestors are from your country. Thanks to him we were able to see all the places in a convenient time.

Next day we went to Saida by bus from Cola station. It took about 35 minutes and we paid 2000LL. From Saida we directly went to Tire in order to finish the part first which is further away. Al Bass had only one entrance gate and since we wanted to buy the ticket we walked all the way. Locals were entering it from other parts as well without paying anything. I would recommend taking a cab or just entering as locals do and pay afterwards because it was not a nice environment to walk from the city. Try falafel in Tire it’s delicious! The ottoman house Debbane Palace was very nice and we were welcomed with juice and cookies. I think it is a pity that it is not mentioned in the popular guide book. We saw Omari Mosque but unfortunately did not manage to enter the churches. Every place was closed at 4 pm.

By the way people do smoke in buses. This is very annoying, next time I would prefer to hire a driver. In express midi busses no one smoked but I don’t know whether this was by chance or a rule.

The Gibran Museum in Bcharré was nice and interesting. Entrance costs 5000 LL, audiophone 8000LL. With the audiophone you can get information about the 12 art pieces on the second floor. Qadisha Valley was beautiful and the cedar sculptures of Rudy Rahmé are very interesting.

In Kozhaya you can visit The Monastry of Saint Anthony where you can see a printing machine form 15th century. On the left side there was a cave. Some pots were putted in they were used to scare and keep at bay the ghosts. They also told us that women came to pray to get pregnant. The Monastry was beautiful and it is certainly worth paying a visit.

From there we headed to Batroun to find the restaurant Chaz Maguay. Unfortunately the personnel did not speak English. We saw on a TV show that they had amazing sea food. So we asked for sea food and the answer was “no seafood. Only fish”. We were a bit surprised but had nothing to do but to accept the fish. A semi burned fish was served. Next to our table a couple was sitting they got all the sea food they wanted. I have no idea what went wrong. We left with disappointment and paid a lot for the awful 2 portions of fish and a salad. 38.000LL was too much for it. Compared to Istambuli restaurant where we ate a lot of delicious food and drunk arak as well in total we paid only 69.000LL.

Cilicia Museum opens at 10 am. It has three floors. Copy of Gospel Bardjirbed(Partserpet)(1248) is shown. First edition of the Armenian Bible was on the second floor. On the third floor are the paintings. For me Hiroshima was the most impressive one. Some of the ancient pieces were openly presented without any protection. During the power cut it got very dark. So if you are a person who cannot stay in dark for a few minutes like me you may feel very very uncomfortable. I wanted to run away but had no idea about the orientation and I was horrified to hit and drop down some of the priceless pieces! We solved the problem by using our cell phones:)

Jeita Grotto was of course amazing. There is no need to advertise:). We used the cable car, took the boat trip within Jeita Grotto. On the same day we visited Harrisa and Byblos. Before visiting Byblos we went to Manuella Restaurant which was recommended by our driver. It was amazing! They had delicious food, nice scene and very good prices. We first said ok we won’t eat much just a light supper. Guess what we sat there for 2,5 hours!

In Byblos again we took a guide for 20$. He was a history professor and it was very interesting and informative. In the evening we visited AUB(American University of Beirut) which had a very nice campus. Tourists have to give their id’s then you get a visitor card and then you are free to walk around and relax. They have beautiful trees from many countries and the campus is just lovely.

Next day we visited Deir al Quamar a small place. Emir Fahreddin Mosque is there. Palace of Younes Maan is privately owned and you can just see it from the outside. The Saidet at-Tallé church was closed:(we couldn’t visit it.

Castle Moussa is something for kids and if you have a lot of time and are eager to see something kitsch you may visit it. The owner dreamed that he was living in a castle when he was a kid. When he told his teacher that he dreamed about living in a castle, he beat him and when he grow and got the possibility he built his very own castle! You can see stuffed animals, weapons from WW1 and WW2, some sculptures, jewelry etc. It seems as if nobody cleaned the objects once the castle was opened.

The mosaics in Beiteddine were beautiful. From there we headed towards Mir Amin Palace just to see it because it was used as a hotel. It has 24 rooms. From there since we liked the cedars so much we visited Chouf Cedar Reserve. Entrance was 10.000LL. These were younger trees and of different kind but still beautiful.

In the evening we paid a visit to Burj Hanut an Armenian neighborhood. Manu was recommended for its pastrami(1kg 24.000LL) and soudjouk(1 kg. 12.000LL) we bought a bit of them. They can vacuum it. Their shawarma was also good.

Breakfast & Lunch & Dinner
• For breakfast I do recommend Wooden Bakery which has a lot of branches. Don’t miss zataar manaeesh!
• Laziz. A place in Hamra. I tried Ghazil al banet. At the bottom was a labneh or creamy thing. On top of it ice cream, some rose water and a think we call pismaniye but don’t know the Arabic version it was yummy.11.000LL. Lebanese coffee is prepared without sugar(in my country they ask you how you like it) so I asked the waiter not to put sugar he said yes but had a strange face. Afterwards I realized that they put sugar after the coffee is cooked and served.
• Mhanna Restaurant. Is in Zahle. They had very delicious Lebanese food. Since we had a reservation at Abdal Wahab we didn’t order much but if you don’t have a special dinner plan you can enjoy Mhanna.
• Petit Café is in Corniche. If you travel as two friends you’ll have very hard time to get a place. They changed our place several times, since they preferred to serve larger groups. Even though there was no group they showed us that we were not welcome and after the third seat change we left.
• Abdel Wahab. They serve raw horse beans and peas. It was very interesting since I had never eaten them raw. It was a nice experience. For arak you get a new glass every time.Food was good.
• Rafaat Hallab. Is in Tripoli. I didn’t like the sweets but as I have mentioned earlier if you don’t like Turkish sweets you may try these ones since the syrup is added by customers according to their taste. They opened in 1881 and it was a nice atmosphere.
• Istambuli Restaurant. Nice food, good atmosphere and reasonable prices.
• Chaz Maguy. If you know French or Arabic you may go. It’s far away from being fancy. There is also one lady speaking English but she prefers to serve regular customers who come frequently. We got only a good evening after paying the bill for a semi burned fish and a standard salad which was expensive compared to other restaurants. We heard about this place by a Turkish gourmet named Vedat Milor, he was amazed about the food but you have to close your eyes while you enter because it did not seem very clean as we went. So it’s up to you…
• Barbar. Is in Hamra. The shawarma is delicious. Falafel was better in Tripoli.
• Casino Mhanna. Excellent food. Nice atmosphere. Reasonable prices.
• BouBouffe. Achrafieh. Locals didn’t know. Was hard to find for us(we crossed the highway) but there is a safer way of course. Was a bit pricy we shared one shawarma but it was really good.
• Manuella Restaurant don’t miss it!
• Manu. Good place to buy pastrami and soudjouk. They can vacuum it for you (first check if your country allows bringing meat). You can try chicken or meat or soudjouk shawarma. Since locals prefer this place as well it’s a good place to be with them. But it’s an eat and go place.
Safety

We went in May 2011 and had no problems at all. Some soldiers or policemen stopped the car and asked the driver some questions but nothing happened. No one asked our id’s or any other questions.

We travelled as two women. We felt absolutely safe. We didn’t face any kind of harassment. No one looked at us, or said anything which would us make uncomfortable.

Other Useful Information:

Best way to explore places is by renting a car with driver. We enjoyed the service of Hussein Abdallah very much.

For Byblos we were lucky to get a history teacher as a local guide. To be honest, without him we wouldn’t understand much what we were looking at.

Power cuts are common. I do recommend that you carry a torch with you. Otherwise you can get a panic like me in Cilicia Museum .
Written 21 February 2012
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Ksen
Geylang, Singapore191 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
May 2012 • Friends
For 20 US$ you get a real insider story of Beirut! From the origins of political system, hidden Roman baths in the centre of the city, Ottoman palaces turned French, 18 political parties, how the 2 political enemies became best friends in jail and created modern Lebanese constitution.... history and contemporary life of Beirut all rolled in one! All this narrated by lively, super funny and very knowledgeable Ronnie who is the life of this tour. Definitely not to be missed interesting crash course on Lebanon!
PS. Don't be scared by the duration of the tour (4 hours), time will fly and there will be plenty of stops where you will be sitting down.
Written 4 June 2012
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

KevinandPolly
Dubai12 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Jun 2014 • Couples
"A must!" Just reposting this in the correct part of Trip Advisor - it was hidden away...

What a fantastic tour! It is definitely the best way to start off your visit to Beirut - you get not just your bearings but also a real feel for the city and her people. We only had 3 days in Beirut and we took the tour on our first night and afterwards really felt we knew Beirut. Thank you to Ronnie and the team at Walk Beirut
Written 1 May 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Denise095
Canberra, Australia281 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Apr 2013 • Couples
This walk is an unusual but essential way to see and understand this complex city. The guide is a historian with the gift of selecting unique places to stop along the way, and making a personal but insightful presentation at each one. He has a good sense of humour and irony, and his companionable style makes you want to meet many more interesting Lebanese people like him. Don't miss this walk.
Written 23 April 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

mariamH9822ZB
Greater London, United Kingdom47 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
Apr 2019 • Couples
It is a very pleasant walking/informative tour in Beirut. Ronnie is very kind and does a good effort to keep the attention high. However, we found that it has been designed in a way that there is no time to ask questions outside to what he specifically have to say.
Written 1 May 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Hi Mariam. Appreciate your feedback. We always make time to answer questions during the walk (guests regularly approach us in-between stops, during the break and after the tour). But we try to avoid a Q&A at each stop to keep the storyline and duration intact.
Written 2 May 2019
This response is the subjective opinion of the management representative and not of Tripadvisor LLC.

Dan M
Minnetonka, MN50 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Dec 2013 • Family
We decided to do this tour based upon all of the positive reviews Ronnie had received and we were not disappointed! The kids loved the way he included them in the tour and there were even some prizes! The four hours flew by!
Written 26 December 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

MillyNairobi
Ottawa, Canada40 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Dec 2013 • Business
Everything you read in the other reviews is true. Ronnie is a wonderful guide with his own sense of the history of the city, which he successfully and infectiously communicates. Those who are living in the city for awhile will see the areas we travelled in a new way. Those who are in Beirut for a short stay will appreciate the city more than they would otherwise. Everyone gets to see places they would not be able to otherwise. I cannot recommend this tour highly enough. Just do it.
Written 22 December 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

joelleclerc
Jongny, Switzerland55 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Mar 2013 • Family
Ronnie is an incredible guide, who will give you a brief overview of the city and it's history! It's a 4 hour walk, but you will not see the time go by...it's simply the best 20$ entertainment in Beirut! Don't miss it, and I promise you will not be disappointed!
Written 12 March 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

TravellinTeacher94
Toronto, Canada40 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
If you only have time to do one thing, take the walking tour of Beirut. Just google "walk beirut". Wear comfortable walking shoes, because the tour is 4.5 hours (with breaks) long. Your excellent guide will take you to the mosts important locations and explain the history along the way. You will traverses the city, from the American University of Beirut, by historical homes and civil-war ravaged buildings, to the reconstructed downtown and onto evening hot spots. It will open your eyes and increase your understanding of this fascinating city!
Written 18 November 2010
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Paul W
Cordes-sur-Ciel, France21 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Jul 2014 • Friends
Ronnie provided an outstanding introduction and overview of the troubled, but fascinating city of Beirut. Ronnie breathed life into the story of a city and the story of a nation. A carefully chosen route and intriguing commentary rivetingly illustrated the history, the religions and the politics. It is a rare thing for someone to share their passion and love for a place so effectively over a truly unforgettable four hour afternoon, early evening stroll.
Written 21 October 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

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