There was a lot more to see, but this walking tour was a great introduction (although we could skip many of the shopping opportunities). Nivaldo, who was our guide for several events, is great -- very informative, very intelligent, and a good singer to boot. He even pointed out the best drinks to get on the central (Pillory) place. (This drink was just about the best fruit drink I have ever had -- some sort of lime and coconut water concoction.) I find Pelourinho magical, and want to go back to explore it some more. Note that it is a good idea to carry smaller bills, and pay for things discreetly on the street (we had no problems at all ourselves, but folks we were doing business with seemed to prefer that).

A dirty sewer hole City with a lot of history but full of broken sidewalks, packs of stray dogs wandering the streets, homeless sleeping in carboard boxes in front of buildings. Found only one passable restaurant. Horrible traffic, crazy taxi drivers who sped through intersections and didn't stop a stop signs. Nice enclosed shopping center. World Cup or Olympic stadium is under construction but sidewalks need a lot repair because they are all broken and full of holes. One can break a foot walking by neglecting to look downward while walking. City Tour Bus was ok but don't go on a week day because of traffic and you'll die from the heat if you sit on the second level. Not much to see either in the city. Avoid this city.