The Pakhlaven Mahmud Necropolis is a must see when visiting Itchan Kala (Ichan-Qala) in Khiva. The building is easily identified through its magnificent turquoise dome. As you enter there is a small fee, as the ticket price is not included in the Itchan Kala ticket price. It is definitely worth paying this small fee. Ladies are requested to cover their hair and in order to assist with this request, there is a stand of scarves to choose from and borrow. There is a small courtyard area and this is where I learned about Pakhlaven Mahmud. He was alive from 1247 to 1326 and was a poet, philosopher, wrestler and furrier. He was also a healer. Upon his death and according to tradition he was buried in his own workshop. His grave then became the site of a cemetery and where the gates were to this cemetery, is now the main doors into the necropolis. In the 18th century it became Pakhlavens tomb and further buildings were added. Pakhlaven is the patron of Khiva and this is considered to be one of Khiva holiest sites. It is beautiful. As I entered the mausoleum, I was struck by its peace and beauty. Prayers were being said and although I didn’t understand what was being said, I felt compelled to sit with others and listen. Once the prayers were concluded I was able to wander the different rooms, where there are a number of tombs. It is amazing place and knowing it holds such religious significance, made it feel a privilege for me to be there.

Wandering around the amazing Itchan Kala, it would be too easy to miss this stunning mausoleum. We were so pleased we had our guide Umida from Islambek Travel, who explained all the history about this amazing building and its occupants. There is a small additional fee as its not included in the VIP Ticket....worth every som! There were a couple who had just been married and were here to get their blessings in this stunning, sacred place.

Makhmud (1247-1326) was not only a poet but also an accomplished wrestler. While he was recognized during his lifetime, his legacy only grew over time and this magnificent mausoleum was constructed in his honor. His style of writing is exemplified on a plaque: "It is easier to color the sky with the blood of your heart than to spend a moment with a fool."