One&Only Resorts strive to offer “unique experiences that guests were looking for, but didn’t know they were looking for.” Indeed. I knew this stay was going to be special the moment my designated host presented me with a notebook imprinted with a single word and definition: “Ubuntu. I am because we are.” I don’t speak Zulu nor presume to understand this philosophy after a few days but I am intrigued. It seems to turn the foundations of centuries of western thought defining individualism on its head. Instead of Descartes, “Cogito, ergo sum,” it’s “I exist as a person through other people.” Mind blowing! And yet ubuntu suffuses the One&Only Cape Town experience, manifesting in exceptional personalization, caring, generosity of spirit, respect, teamwork and service with alacrity. The hotel promises rooms and suites that are “the largest in the city.” I believe them. Perhaps I was confused with a VIP, but I received an unexpected upgrade. I did receive a puzzling note from the Guest Experience Manager welcoming me as “a guest of Expedia Incorporated” (I have no affiliation with Expedia and don’t believe I have ever even used Expedia… and I certainly didn’t stay as their guest). Regardless of the reason, my one-bedroom Island Grand Suite was enormous. The hotel website indicates a size of 1948 sq ft. but it seemed even larger to me. Spotless, stylish bedroom, bathroom with freestanding soaking tub and dual sinks on opposing walls, walk-in closet, built-in dresser, powder room, living room with fireplace, dining for six indoors and four outdoors, pantry and full kitchen with a professional range and appliances, fully stocked complimentary (except for alcohol) minibar and refreshment center. It made me wish I had some friends in Cape Town to invite over. The suite was not only larger than my first apartment, it was larger (and much more opulently appointed) than my first house. If, like Winston Churchill, you’re a bath enthusiast, there’s no need to choose among bath foam, salts or oil – you have your choice of all three. One fun quirk was that the taps in the bathroom had the cold on the left and hot on the right. In the hall powder room this was reversed with hot on the right and cold on the left. I don’t know if this is a South African tradition or just a technique to distinguish between the two facilities. Then there are the birds. This is not an issue for the Marina Rise main hotel rooms, but only the “Island Suites” surrounding “the largest free form infinity pool in the Southern Hemisphere.” At the far end of the pool there is a waterfall where various ducks, geese, seagulls and other waterfowl splash and preen their feathers. Most of the time this is creates a peaceful, bucolic scene. But then there are other times when the birds go full send Hitchcock in a Hobbesian war of all against all, battling each other with an ear-shattering cacophony of screeches, cries and general divebombing mayhem, all of which comes to a head in the hours immediately before dawn. These may be the original Angry Birds. It made me long for an incarnation of Betty Draper in Season One, Episode Nine of Mad Men to fire a warning blast with her shotgun. Better yet, a raptor-enforced infinity pool no fly zone could offer more permanent deterrence without harming the birds. Here in Los Angeles, SoFi Stadium protects its 16 million gallon lake with a falconer and two highly trained Harris hawks. Perhaps a member of the South African Falconry Association could weigh in on this proposed solution, but in the interim have your ear plugs handy when avian mayhem breaks loose. If the birds (or jetlag) do have you up with the lark, head on over the comprehensive, spacious fitness center for an early morning workout. Most properties of this caliber have nice workout rooms, but this takes both cardio and weight training to the next level. There’s even Platefit full-body vibration training available that promises to have your hours-long workout completed in just 27 minutes. What’s more, there is an extensive collection of complementary pre- and post-workout concoctions, fresh and dried fruits, nuts palliative balms and salves, libations, espresso, even chocolate peanut butter smoothies for the taking. You could probably make three square meals a day from the fitness center refreshment bar alone. During my stay, the One&Only Cape Town hosted a diverse roster of guests from near and far. Locals discussing business in the restaurants. Germans attempting (and succeeding) to become as sun-burned as possible as fast as possible (why do they do this?). Middle Eastern teens and 20-somethings vaping with all of their might. Brits in characteristic sharp tailoring sipping cocktails. Americans stopping over on their way to Kruger Park safaris and visits to Victoria Falls. Families with young children taking full advantage of languid, sunny days by the pool. Most of the guests returned the staff’s spirit as best they can with some notable exceptions: Waiter: “Good afternoon! I hope your day is as beautiful as the weather. How are you doing today?” Guest: “Diet Coke.” … Waiter: “I certainly hope you enjoyed your lunch. Can I offer anything else? Guest: “Where’s the spa?” Hmmm. It didn’t feel this guest was fully onboard with ubuntu but maybe his attitude changed after the spa treatments. The Diet-Coke-swilling, spa-seeking malcontent aside, I encourage guests to sample all the culinary offerings. Breakfast is served in Ochre, and if you can tear yourself away from breakfast in bed, I highly recommend visiting in person. The buffet is the largest (and longest) I have ever seen running the gamut from traditional breakfast staples to South African delicacies to even a section of (hopefully post-prandial) candy that would make Willy Wonka jealous. All egg dishes are ordered off the menu and prepared from scratch (I found the “medium” poached eggs to be more on the “hard” side but simply shifted to ordering them “soft”). If you want it for breakfast, if Ochre doesn’t have it, I bet they’ll be able to make it. And the man behind the espresso machine and juice bar is both a consummate pro and extraordinarily fast. His enthusiasm for caffeinating is at once infectious and laudatory. Lunch, snacks, afternoon tea, drinks or dinner in the Vista Bar and Lounge earns its moniker. Ever-changing views of Table Mountain unfold through the four stories of glass behind the bar. The poolside restaurant Isola (available only to in-house guests) offers Mediterranean favorites with a South African twist. Don’t miss the gyros or Messe platter. If you can’t snag a seat outside on the terrace, fear not: the entire front glass wall of the restaurant can be slid out of the way to bring the outdoors in. Finally there’s the only Nobu in South Africa (it used to be the only Nobu on the continent of Africa but now there’s a Nobu hotel in Marrakech). You’ll find all the familiar favorites like Miso Black Cod and Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño, along with some specialties you won’t find elsewhere. This is good place to indulge: any dish you select will be 1/3 to ½ less expensive than if you were at Nobu in Malibu or Lana’i, let alone Tokyo or London. Which brings up another point. Due to currency arbitrage, many guests will find Cape Town less expensive than home, especially for dining. The current minimum wage in South Africa is ZAR25.42, one of the lowest in the world. I am by no means suggesting the OneandOnly pays its staff minimum wage, but at current exchange rates the minimum wage works out to $1.36/hr vs. say, $20/hour minimum for food service workers in Los Angeles. If you experience professional – or likely even exceptional – service, consider erring on the side of generosity when tipping. A small gesture on your part may have more of an impact than you might anticipate. Outside of the resort, there’s a lot to explore in the Mother City. Three cheers to the concierge staff – including one of only three members of the storied Les Clefs d’Or in the city – that Rumpelstiltskined an itinerary out of thin air that included exploration ranging across #1 must see site Table Mountain, penguins, wineries in Constantina, beaches, the southwestern-most point on the continent of Africa in the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, Robben Island (unfortunately skuttled due to high seas), the historic Bo-Kaap neighborhood, a mini-safari, hip restaurants and local coffee shops alike. They fit all of the pieces together like a complex jigsaw puzzle creating a gestalt greater than the sum of its constituent components. A word of advice about Table Mountain. Everyone who visits Cape Town visits Table Mountain, as they should. This is one magnificent mountain with 2,200+ species of plants – more than in all species in North America and Europe combined! Nelson Mandela called Table Mountain “a gift to the Earth.” There’s plenty of space up on top of the table, but unless you want to hike the 3,500 feet up, you’ll need to take the cable car. And to take the cable car, you’ll need to wait in line. This can be “step right up” or a Splash Mountain at Disneyland-style queue. The morning I was set to visit, the cable car was out of service on a wind hold. When it finally opened, the line was up the street, down the street, across the street, up the stairs and then into the station. I’d estimate about a 2+ hour wait. But there is another way. If you’re willing to pay double the price, you can skip the line with a “Fast Track” ticket. It could be a waste, or save you lots of wasted time. You have to ask yourself, “Do I feel lucky?” Back at the hotel, the One&Only appears to be thriving fifteen years on from its opening, defining its clientele as “discerning, well-travelled and accomplished people who are increasingly seeking authenticity and exceptional, money-can’t-buy experiences.” In addition to these folks, occasionally a piker like me slips under the radar, and maybe you can too. Chances are you’ll enjoy a transformative experience – and ubuntu -- you didn’t even know you were looking for.…