I first met Poppy and Nek Vasilopoulos around 10 years ago when they ran the highly successful Rementzo restaurant in Frikes on Ithaca. Over the years, we established a friendly, symbiotic relationship whereby we would supply her with books by Sabrina Ghayour and Yotam Ottolenghi...and she woud improve my fledging Greek.
Rementzo stood out because it took traditional Greek dishes and tweaked them into Rementzo specials. They obviously worked because the Tripadvisor reviews were singing their praises. Two years ago the pair took a massive leap of faith, quit the lease on Rementzo and started building their own restaurant and cookery school called Myrtia in the hills neart Stavros.
The vision behind Myrtia was to create dishes from the freshest, organic local produce and create a menu and restaurant that could look at high end eaterie in the world straight in the eye and they have succeeded. And it is not just the food that is traditional, but cooking methods, too. As they explain on their website: "beyond the natural local ingredients, there are also traditional cooking methods and techniques to be captured, learnt, shared and passed on to the next generations. My aunt has made us a traditional tserepa (after a cousin fished an old battered one out of a neighbour’s barn) made of local white clay and goats hair. The tserepa is used like a sort of mobile wood oven for roasting dishes under its white hot lid."
On our three visits this year, we started with shared Cumin and honey roasted carrots, braised Chickpeas with caramelised onion, parsley and dill, strained Kefalonian yoghurt and sesame seed filo cracker, Destination Ithaca Blue cheese, crisp green apple, baby spinach, charred spring onion, lime and honey dressing with wood oven apple crisps, Locally sourced Katsenos Feta cheese in a polenta crust, with a sour cherry syrup and crisp fried sage leaves, Mountain Amaranthus Blitum Greens stir-fried with garlic, wine vinegar and a taramasalata creamy cod roe and pan-fried Green Beans with toasted almond, black olive and herb crumb and whipped feta.
Mains included Selino Rigatoni egg pasta with courgette, chilli flakes, garlic and local Graviera cheese topped with crispy shoestring courgette, dill and parsley fritters, Locally reared Ithacan Goat and potatoes slowly baked in the wood oven scented with myrtle berry leaves, Grilled local Lamb and pistachio patties with preserved lemon yoghurt, garden fresh rocket salad, olive oil and sumac and Myrtia garden Courgettes, stuffed with caramelised onions, local herbs, spinach, bulgur wheat and jujubes cooked under the Tserepa clay lid, with a shaved fresh courgette, lemon, olive oil salad.
Yes, read that closely and you will see mention of the Myrtia garden. Not only have Poppy and Nek built a stunning and stylish restaurant, but they have a garden that provides them with most of the vegetables they need to create magical dishes.
I find it uplifting that two very driven (but relaxed) individuals have managed to chase their dream and turn it into concrete reality.More