Reports of sensationally good food had reached one of the friends I was visiting via a recommendation so three of us motored over for Sunday lunch. The pub's previous reputation had been a modest one but tales of a new chef poached (though only lightly)...from elsewhere spoke of much-improved standards. To be honest, the outer, tiled-floor bar is that of a typical local and a rather gloomy middle area didn't appeal but, thankfully, our table was in an airy, light-filled extension at the back. It's still not the smartest of dining areas but, if the food's good, I, for one, never carp too much. The lunch menu was small but choice, extending to 4 starters, 5 mains and a choice of 2 Sunday roasts, plus 6 pizzas (not exactly fine dining but it'd keep the kids happy and they looked to be the size of wagon-wheels). 3 sweets were offered, plus ice creams, homemade sorbets or a cheeseboard. I reckon it's invariably a good sign if the menu doesn't run to several pages; best to devote attention to just a few dishes.
My soft-shell crab, lemon puree, soy-sesame and ginger resembled an opponent of Godzilla in miniature form but yielded to the fork and, with it's subtle Thai flavours, tasted sublime. My friend's delicately presented smoked duck was a real hit too. Rarely have I consumed a prettier plateful than my main; the venison with ginger mash, kale, poached pear, braised shallots carrot puree and pomegrante gravy could have doubled as a table decoration at Christmas (see below). Moreover, the kale wasn't (as it can be) tough and scratchy but delightfully tender and the shallots melted in the mouth. This was a winning melange of flavours, meaty, fruity and rooty. My other friend's salmon did seem a bit disconcertingly swamped with peas (termed a fricassee) and we felt this ought to be reconceived. The roast beef was served rare but was reportedly nicely tender and boasted good roasties and a la dente celeriac cubes amongst other accompaniments. My pineapple posset again deserved a Design Centre award for its diagonal slant up the glass, a fragrant tang balanced with toasted coconut crumb, clementine puree, strawberries and a softish shortbread finger. The spiced rhubarb and apple crumble with vanilla Tonka ice cream was, perhaps, a bit shallow and the crumb did have the odd granitey bit in it. The chocolate tart didn't seem to involve any pastry but included a huge wedge of honeycomb, though it did pose a threat to insecure fillings.
We were bowled over by the imagination and quality of the cooking, a rare gem in a slightly undistinguished setting. I only wish that we had this class of a chef operating in my neck of the woods, in the uncivilised North. It's not cheap but fine dining rarely is; close on £25 for a main of lamb rump would outrage many north of Newark and £38 for tournedos rossini would cause my countrymen to slip into a coma. All in all, the bill for three of £116, including two glasses of wine and a fizzy water, seemed very fair Without a doubt, next time I'm in this neck of the woods, I shall make a bee-line for The Snooty Tavern to see how the other half eat.More
