Everest Base Camp trekking tips

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Everest Base Camp trekking tips
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Here’s a few tips for those headed trekking up to Everest Base Camp or the surrounds via Lukla and answers a few questions I had before going, and adds some advice I found useful. Feel free to add to them or to ask me anything further. Cheers, C.

Pre-training

Get as fit as you can or you just won’t enjoy it as much, and if you get sick (as many do) you will find it all the harder. As is, it’s a very hard, multi-day, non-stop haul on which you will see some folks who look like they’ve done no training and really show it. They say the best training for hills is hills, so train on hills and wear the boots and pack you will be taking and get out there training harder and longer than you think you need to as when things like altitude, fatigue and possible sickness bite at least you will be more ready than not.

Train with a bit more weight than you may take so your body and foot movement in your boots is all attuned to being there. I was doing 4 hour hill loops 3 times a week and I was okay but not as fit as some, so make sure you (and any partners) do the work or you just won’t come out the other side as happy as you could, or worse can get injured or too exhausted very, very far from home. I found after training in a hot climate in short pants I didn’t like long pants when there so I wore thermals under my shorts but most are comfortable in longer hiking pants. After hiking each day I found wearing a pair of cheap pressure tights from Kmart for a few hours made a lot of difference compared to the day I didn’t wear them.

Arrival info

If you fly to Kathmandu out of Bangkok (or anywhere Asia) sit up front with the window on the right-hand side so you can see Everest when it comes into view if the weather isn’t too cloudy a few hours out. You get your visa on arrival for most countries and will need some cash up front (don’t stash it all in your checked luggage) and if you don’t have a photo you can get one taken on the spot at immigration.

Arrangements with/without a trekking company/DIY

You can do the Everest trek completely solo if you really are the adventurous type but I went with a trekking company arranging it all so at least I had someone more knowledgeable than me first time through handling my arrangements. I thought this was worthwhile for more than the money extra it cost than doing it solo. If I got sick or injured or lost my way enroute or had issues along the way I knew I had them with me as back up. You also give locals folks a job if you take both a porter and a guide if doing it solo like me or more so if you take a group trek. It’s work they won’t get if you are too tight with your purse strings.

Importantly, you can only stay overnight in Basecamp if you have arrangements made with a company that has /shares a Basecamp permit. These are the outfits with climbers there so you get the unique chance to meet and hear much more about it all from folks who are getting to do something even more amazing than you! If you don’t stay in Basecamp you only get a quick tourist’s view of the sprawling camp after the long, long walk over from Lobuche or Gorak Shep. I wasn’t hiking so long and so hard for a quick glimpse of the Basecamp and the infamous Khumbu Icefield and then have to hike back to wence I came. Trust me, though there’s not a lot to do there, it is what you went there for, so stay in Everest Base Camp as opposed to not doing so if you can.

Lukla flights

The flight up takes about 45 minutes if that. All flights are early and bumpy but hopefully not too bad. Maybe take a Qwell tab when you awake at your hotel in prep for the flight to help with having to start trekking if you were sick on the flight there.

Accommodations teahouses v camping

There is so much construction of new teahouses going on up through the valley I don’t know why anyone would camp in tents these days. Tents are cold, dark without lighting, further from toilets and cramped for one let alone two people, and if it rains you get wet going anywhere such as a teahouse for meals. Maybe they were necessary when there were too many trekkers than teahouse beds but not anymore. And if you do stay in a teahouse you can now pretty much assure yourself of at least one western style sit down toilet there where outside will likely be the old and local style squat toilet. Yikes! And keep your headlight handy as the power goes out early and you’ll need it during the black of night.

Gearlist what’s not needed, what to buy at home v in Thamel/KTM

Get your good stuff from home from decent outfitters and your cheaper non-core stuff in the Thamel tourist area in Kathmandu. The Thamel stuff is mostly good looking knock-off stuff from China but don’t expect the stitching or glue to last longer term and you won’t be able to trust the stated rating of any down filled jackets or sleeping bags unless someone there such as your guide vouches for the quality. Finding out it’s inferior to the real deal brands when you’re up the mountain is too late for most important stuff you will want to rely on up there. They do sell authentic stuff in Thamel and it’s potentially cheaper than home but it will definitely help to know what’s genuine and what’s not before you hit the ground there. You can rent stuff there, but again I’m unsure of the quality even if it looks good. Ask others I guess.

Water quality/availability

Don’t spend money on water purifier tablets and expensive filtering things unless you will use them elsewhere with serious remote dirty water. Just buy bottled water instead from your teahouse each day. Some don’t like that it’s all been carried in, like everything else, but it’s genuine and convenient and though some say expensive: just buy it anyway. (It can increase up to 10 times the Kathmandu price but even then it’s still only a few bucks per bottle, and you’ve saved on expensive funny tasting tabs from home anyways). You can even save on this if you put free boiling water in your metal drink bottle the night before and just drink that the next day (but if you top up in the morning as you head out the door they’ll want to charge you something).

Medical kit needed or not, what to include

You can buy all your drugs without prescription in Kathmandu and much cheaper than home. They are all legitimate quality so no worries there apparently. Usually most treks start with a few days in Kathmandu for sightseeing and last minute gear buying and stuff so you will have time if you know what you need. Essentially you want feet, gut and head related stuff. Get Moleskin and other blister tape and best use it before you get the blister, or soon after. Get some antiseptic cream in case one gets infected. Most folks get a stomach problem at some time. This can be a full on bug or it can just be your system stressing out along the way. If it’s the bug from anything from off food to germs via hands you need something heavy to deal with it. Cipro is the mainstay but if that doesn’t work you are supposed to then assume it’s an alternate gut bacteria and go for the alternate medicine (name? I’ve got it but not used it since Kilimanjaro). These attack the bug but you also need some gut stopper tabs to save having the runs requiring you to toilet break all too often.

You’ll know the travel diahorrea gut stopper tabs (Loperamide) will be all that’s required if when feeling all loose you come good within a few hours thereafter. If not go for the Cipro atom bombs. Some good advice I was told was to ensure that if using a camelback hydration pack, as I was, to ensure the mouth piece never touched the ground when I took off my pack, so to avoid touching any yak dung or dust along the way. I found using antibacterial handwipes were good for clean hands at meal and other times and other uses and suggest you get and use these too (you’ll use about 4 a day so do the maths).

For head medication get some heavy duty headache tablets, some antibacterial throat lozenges, some throat gargle for sore throats and the infamous Khumbu cough, some pain relief pills in case you are sick or hurt something, something for a badly clogged nose and some Diamox for altitude sickness in case you need it. On that one the local guys say you only need to take it should you get sick, as you ascend much slower than the likes of Kilimanjaro where we started taking it before the trip left Moshi. I never got sick proper but I did take half a tab of Diamox at night as I was finding that it allowed me to breath without gasping for breath throughout the night (moreso with the clogged nose I had for days).

All said: prevention is better than cure. And having a decent supplier of all these assured me I was covered in most cases and had more for other trekkers or my guides or locals along the way as was the case. If you go with a big group expect your guide to have their own stash of all this stuff as well).

Meals enroute

You’ll eat a hot breakfast at the teahouse, stop at some teahouse place for a hot meal about 12 or so, then arrive at your hotel and eventually have a hot dinner there. You’ll pass a few places on some days where you can buy cookies or cold drinks.

Hats and Head coverings

I took a broad brimmed crushable cowboy hat for down low but was happy to revert to my baseball cap up higher and at times it got windy. I’d recommend you use sunscreen to add to the protection as well. I also had a new wool skull cap which was easy to have in my pocket and to also use through cold nights sleeping.

Sunglasses

Regular sunglasses are fine for the lower altitudes. If you are going into EBC and will be there for a few days you might think about something for the more serious retina zapping glare.

Buffs

Get one they’re great, and very cheap to buy in Thamel, Kathmandu. Essentially they are a stretchy neck warmer that you can also use as a head band, dusty mouth protector, beanie and in a bunch of other ways. They are 1/10th the price buying them in Thamel.

Thermals

The basic choice is go cost effective and buy polypropylene ones which are fine for not real cold climates, or spend more and get merino woollen ones. If you haven’t used them before they add another comfortable layer to your levels of clothing and are definitely worth your while. You can walk in them during the day and wear them as tights for sleeping in at night. I found having trained in a hot climate I didn’t like wearing trousers so wore these with hiking shorts over them.

I would add that I have found the heavy weight 360 level Icebreaker version too hot. They might be ok in extreme cold but for this trip, hotel accomodations or for future general use you would be much better off with mid layer level stuff only then adding or subtracting more layers as you feel to. My heavy ones made me feel over-cooked, cost a fortune and I no longer wear them. Hmm. The woollen ones can also be worn for weeks apparently without obvious odour build up not like the poly ones which start to pong from day one.

Clothing adequate gear and gloves

For this trip take some light thin cotton style ones for brisk mornings and some heavier ski ones to place over these if things get much colder.

Day packs and Duffle bags and plastic inside bags

If you are going with an organised tour they will probably give you a tanker/duffle to use and keep for the journey. These are large enough for a ton of stuff but functional for the porter to carry a few of at once (these guys sometimes carry up to 120 kg should they need to, they are amazingly strong). You can then leave your excess stuff in your original case back stored safely in your Kathmandu hotel, remember to lock it though. And take a lock for your duffle as you’ll be travelling at a different pace than the porters lugging your stuff. And also take your own lock with a large loopy hook lock bit so you can then lock your room door when going for meals at night. I like using combo locks so you don’t need to bother about loosing a key. Also, I find in sorting and packing stuff get some heavy duty clear plastic bags that you can compartmentalise stuff so its easy to find or get out of the way until it’s needed.

Seeing someone is likely to be lumping your stuff you only really need a much smaller day pack for rain gear, a pull over, camera/media, some light first aid, snacks and water. Larger packs just allow you to take more unnecessary stuff so don’t indulge as it’s you who has to carry it. A day pack with a decent hip harness is good if you can get one, as well as one that keeps the pack off your back, this allows you to ventilate better and avoids the chill of putting a freezing damp pack against your back after you stop for a break in colder climes.

Trekking Poles

I strongly recommend them. It turns you into a much more efficient 4 legged beast than a 2 legged one and I read somewhere using them takes about 6 ton a day of weight off your knees. I wouldn’t go without them and you’ll appreciate them moreso on a tough decent or should you injure yourself. Cheap ones off eBay are fine and you only really need the much, much more expensive ones which are much lighter when you are hitting more serious heights. Get some and use them beforehand to tune in your triceps, your knees will thank you!

Guides and Porters

There’s essentially 4 ways you can do the trek: 1) fly solo and carry everything yourself which some do but this is the hard option, harder still if you succumb to fatigue or sickness far from anywhere. 2) Arrange a single Guide/Porter who will lug about 20kgs of your stuff and you carry the rest. He’ll show you the way but his English (or other) language skills will be basic and the spoken conversation between you limited. 3) Arrange for a Porter to lump your things and he’ll take up to about 40kgs, which could be 2 packs if you have a partner. He’ll be strong as an ox, walk fast, say little and just meet you at the end of each day where you agree to stay. And 4) You could also hire a Guide with one of the options above who will likely be from the Sherpa people, knowledgeable in the area and it’s folklore and have good language skills. He may or may-not have climbing experience but if he is a Climbing Guide you’ll be impressed with the stories he will tell you along the way.

Probably the best way to go, and what you’ll get if you do an arranged tour trek, is 4) to have a Porter and a Guide (more of each if it’s a larger group). That way for the little more it costs you, you employ two local blokes, learn more about all things Nepali, maybe meet a new friend or two and have someone on-hand should you get sick or need something sorted out enroute or at night. Importantly, you only then need to carry a much lighter daypack with the essentials. I initially thought I’d tough it out with just the Guide/Porter but soon changed my mind when I laid out all my gear just before leaving home. Getting both the Guide and the Porter was a great decision which I didn’t appreciate so much as when I was just wasted from the on-going effort and the altitude. For those who get sick or injured this option must just feel like a lifesaver. Even lumping a large day pack can seem excessive when you are travelling under pressure.

Boots and other footwear

You need decent high-cut boots, not trainers as some suggest. Yes, you could walk in trainers but I nearly sprained or rolled an ankle about 10 times due to the rough, unstable trails. Every time I did I thought if I was in trainers my trip would have just finished, and then what would you do? You are so far from regular civilisation the thought and hassle is just not worth it. Get boots that support your ankles and wear them enough at home to ensure they are broken in to wear in most of the tight spots and rubbing points. Most boots for some reason come with terrible innersoles so you should ditch these for Superfeet inserts or your own proper foot moulded orthotics. And check your laces at home for wear to lessen the chance of breaking one on the trail (pack some spares though, they don’t weigh much and you could use them for string or give to someone else if need be). You could buy spares along the way but not in the middle of no where. Take some Crocs or sandals to wear about the place once you arrive in at night. I also had some warmer Ugg boots for exploring the village.

Socks and liners

Trial different socks (thickness and material type, I like Summit woollen trekking socks) and liners long before you leave home, and listen to your feet while walking to feel what you need for the perfect fit (which may be slightly different for each different foot). Trial these with your pack on, as mentioned, as your boots and feet will respond different when you have weight on your back and are working up or downhill for long periods of time.

The daily grind of trekking and ‘days off’, typical and suggestions

What makes this a long, tough trek is that you don’t really have any proper days off. Even what’s listed as a Rest Day just actually means you stay for two nights in the same place but are generally doing a necessary day hike up a steep hill for the altitude benefit, not sleeping in and lounging around as you kinda hoped! Most days start with a wake-up knock on your door about 6am, you pack up and get breakfast about 7 or so, then are out the door and trekking by about 8.30am. Stops get made along the trail when you come across something interesting or a village shop or some such. Lunch is about midday where you can take a longer break if you are making okay time. You normally get in to the night’s accommodation between 2pm and 4pm. It kinda depends on your speed, if you are solo or if you are staying as a group. It’s not a race though so just remember to go at your own comfortable speed, stop when it suits and remember to have your camera on hand for snaps on the go. In fact going slower is one of the safest things you can do and it tends to be the young fit bucks that go too far - too fast and they are the ones who over do it and consequently have altitude issues.

Afternoons post trekking

When you do arrive you’ll be shown to your luxurious room, enjoy a steaming hot shower, complimentary massage and maybe a glass of welcoming champagne. Not. Nah, sorry that’s not going to happen! You’ll actually lug your bag from wherever your Porter has dumped it, lay on your bed, rest your weary bones and wonder if you are enjoying yourself yet. Pondering this you may grab a snooze, then explore the village or just relax in the Teahouse large common room reading your book, yapping with others while sipping a hot drink. They’ll want you to pick dinner from the menu and give them a time to serve it. This helps them deal with busy times from a small kitchen. A good tip if you are a larger group is to order just a few things which will save them needing to cook too many different meals and you’ll all eat quicker.

Post dinner and with limited lighting you are free to huddle around the acrid yak dung fireplace for added warmth, but keep away if you are getting a raspy throat, or just head to bed which most do by about 7.30pm. Be ready for the range of exotic noises you’ll hear through the night. When you do find sleep it won’t necessary be the best though and they say due to the altitude you should stay off the sleeping tablets. At least taking some ear plugs will help.

Helicopters cost, benefits, use

The only motorised vehicle you’re likely to see beyond Lukla is a helicopter heading up or back the Valley/Everest Base Camp. It will be carrying sick or injured trekkers or maybe locals, and their gear or expedition folks from Everest. I didn’t have someone to split the cost with but if you want to splurge the bucks for what must be a truly unforgettable experience you can take a sightseeing chopper flight. You can get it arranged from one of the villages but it ain’t cheap. A chopper on stand-by in Lukla will come up and get you at a cost of about US$1500 per flight (or US$5000 if you need to go all the way back to Kathmandu, which your insurance will probably wear if you are hurt or sick).

Pee Bottles

One of the most convenient things you can take along is a plastic bottle to use when nature calls at night. Once you’re snuggled up warm in your sleeping bag the thought of redressing for the journey let alone the effort to visit the no lights toilets is something you’ll want to avoid. Just take a coloured 1 litre plastic milk bottle and use that. It’s cheaper than a Nalgene one and there’s no chance you’ll mix them up if you get thirsty in the dark. Yikes. And if it’s coloured plastic you, or anyone else, doesn’t need to see a thing on your way to empty it in the morning. Ladies can also do this if you get yourself a She Wee rubber spout sold at most outdoor stores.

I’ll return to this post to finish off the above incomplete items but I’ll post this now as folks headed there for the upcoming season may be interested in this incomplete info. And feel free to add your own tips below. PM me direct for any questions. Cheers,C.

Sheffield, United...
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1. Re: Everest Base Camp trekking tips
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Lots of excellent information; thanks for posting.

The use of bottled water merits further discussion:

The empty bottles are an environmental problem in the Khumbu because there is no way to recycle them. Bottled water is not the cheapest solution in my experience. Chemical purifiers can be very cheap in KTM; Lugol's solution (iodine) is very cheap; at a little bit of a guess, enough for a 14 day trek will be cheaper than one litre bottle at Gorak Shep. There are better purifiers (iodine does not prevent Giardia) that are more expensive in KTM but cheaper than at (=home (most trekkers' homes at least). Unbranded chlorine is still cheap but brands from the 'west' can be expensive. Even a branded chlorine dioxide product (the most effective) will be cheaper than bottled water.

Boiled water from the lodges is a popular option but has environmental and costs too. It's relatively safe; water does not have to boiled to be free from biological contaminants - 5 minutes above 70C suffices and boiling water ensures this condition is met. Often, there will be a large pot of water on a rolling boil on the heater in the dining room.

The vast majority of lodges charge for boiled water and, as with everything else, costs increases with altitude but the costs are stated on menus (mostly). The environmental issue is the fuel used to boild the water; gas is common though lodges will use yak dung if available.

The park authorities have banned glass bottles and with luck plastic water bottles will follow as they are in parts of the the Annapurna area.

Footwear is another issue worth debating...

Thanks again.

scoodly

Singapore, Singapore
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Superb write up here. I wished I have read your posting before my first trek in Nepal (came back recently).

I would have understood why some passengers were snapping pictures away in the plane (for Everest) and would have been better prepared for the trek.

Cheers!

Wishing all who are doing their trek soon well!

73m
Adelaide, Australia
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This was really helpful. Thank you!

One small question: I'm tossing up between flip flops and teva sandals for the post hike teahouse times. The only advantage to flip flops in my mind is if the showers (I know there won't be many!) are basic and the floor dirty etc.

Advice?

Brisbane, Australia
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Thanks folks for your nice replies. On the water, i appreciate the enviro issues but think I still prefer the convenience of bottled water (plastic trash seems to be removed enmass??) over the hassle, taste and expense of tabs. It's an interesting one. On footwear, I don't like the feel of socks and flipflops and Teva straps get and stay wet. The few showers weren't too grungy and if you don't have cut or bad blistered feet you'd be fine, mostly its just the shower water doesnt drain away sometimes so being cold you are trying to save a wet sock when redressing. Either type shoe would be fine for post hike relaxing but your socks may get soaked transferring outside to your room or if you go for a gentle walk exploring the village after arrival as you will so you'll need something covered for that which is warm, weatherproof and easy to wear.

Sheffield, United...
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5. Re: Everest Base Camp trekking tips
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You say plastic trash seems to removed enmass - it's not something I'm aware of, do you have any further information about it? Who removes it and where to?

Maybe one of the guides could give up to date info...

Thanks scoodly

73m
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Thanks for footwear advice!

Nashville, TN
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awesome tips!! Thank you so much! I've needed to read a post like this...

Brisbane, Australia
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hi, i want to add further to my OP, how do I do this/edit it please?

France
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Waooooo!

You can not edit the same post after time limitation. You can edit your post within the timeline of TripAdvisor which seems to be 5 minutes or so. After that I think you are not allowed to edit your post!

Can make another post!

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Hi great post thanks. I'm going next year ref pre training what do you mean by 4 hour hill loops.

Thanks.

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