We usually stay in hotels, but this time we stayed in a VRBO in St. Georges and have some good tips that will help those who have never been. This was our first trip to Bermuda and we didnt know what to expect.
1. First of all, the bus system is one of the best we've ever seen. We never waited longer than 10 minutes for a bus and it takes you to just about every corner of the island. (It can be a bit tiresome if you're on a long route as it stops about every 300 yards) Get the multi day pass. It's well worth it.
2. Our hosts told us about the beaches on St. Davids. We went to clearwater beach and Turtle bay which were nice. However, we went through the gates in Coopers nature reserve and saw some incredible beaches. These had large rock formations close to shore and alot of wildlife. We saw a few people walking around, but it was very private. Absolutely stunning. The only negative, this area is a 15 minute from the nearest bus stop. Use the #6 out of St. George.
3. Elbow beach was pretty typical, but we really enjoyed Jobsons cove and Horseshoe bay. You can hike the trails between those beaches (with great views,) which is just over a mile or so. The best snorkleing was at Tobacco bay, which was convenient, but nothing compared to going on a boat to a full reef.
4. The food, as others say, it expensive. But so are beers and wine. Be preapred to pay $6-7 per beer. We ate at The Swizzle inn and had drinks at the Frog and Onion and everything was ok. The beers at Frog and Onion were the best as they are local brewed. Most of the time, we felt the food was average and there didnt seem to be anything that was special to the island.
5. Crystal and fantasy caves are nice, but short trips and at $27 to see both seemed pricey. If you've never seen a Cenote or cavern in the USA, then go for it. If you have, take a pass. We found the aquarium to be really enjoyable and at $10 per person, well worth it.
Overall, a beautiful island which is perfect for active people. Not so much for foodies or sitting around and drinking all day.