What can I say? We just returned from 5 days(not enough) on the island and it was a terrfic experience from start to finish.
transportation - we flew USAir from Charlotte, then Cape Air from San Juan. All flights were on time, happy to report that getting through USDA scanner upon re-entering SJU was fast
accomodations - stayed at Pura Vida, super location, a 5 minute stroll to the Malecon, house is well-equipped, just turn on the airconditioner at night to mask the sound of the roosters. Joe, the house manager, picked us up at the airport for a quick tour. He is a great guide, full of tips and suggestions about where to go, what to do (and what not to do)
activities - I've been to many Caribbean islands but, in my opinion, the beaches here are the prettiest. You'll need a car and be prepared for the bumpy roads that you have to take to get to the best beaches. Bluebeach is the most beautiful I've ever seen. Navio has cliffs and grottos. Coconut beach is another not to miss. Kayaked out to the island across from the Esperanza beach and tied up to one of the moorings on the right side of the island for some VERY good snorkeling, lots of fish and coral. Rode horses on the beach and up into the mountains with Esperanza Riding Company, another amazing experience.
food - Favorite is definitely Sol food truck at the entrance to the Refuge. Fortunately, they were open 2 days in a row, the pork carintas are heavenly. TRadewinds for breakfast and Bili for dinner.
culture - If you like a vacation where you spend the day on the water and then go back to your hotel/resort at the end of the day, this is not the place for you.The BEST part of Vieques is the people. By far, they are the friendlest of any island I've been to, everyone says hello, language is no barrier. They are happy to assist, answer questions and invite you to join in their life. I was struck by the poverty and by the apparent devestating effects from years of the Navy's bombing. But, truly, the people seem happy. Yes, there are horses (and dogs) everywhere which is crazy. And, although we were given cautionary advice about petty theft, we (2 women in our 60s) never felt unsafe at any time.
bottom line - don't bother to pack anything other than tshirts, shorts and a bathing suit, take plenty of cash, be prepared to do some driving if you want to see the best beaches and , most importantly, get into their rythm and you'll have a great time.