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St. Barths/Anguilla Day Six

Philadelphia
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for Anguilla
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St. Barths/Anguilla Day Six

Day Six, Finally Chilling Out

We found Ellen asleep on her lounge chair, right where she said she would be in front of Nathan's Cove. After talking on the board for years, I was so happy to finally meet her and her DH. She patiently listened to my Cuisinart rant and isn't it always nice to just meet someone and then rant and rave? But it was as if we had known each other for years and through the board I suppose we have. Thanks for listening, Ellen. I'm not always like that, really, I'm not.

Carimar it looked pretty quiet on the Malliouhana end.

Straw Hat as always was excellent for lunch. Their bacon avocado chicken wrap is a go back and get it again item for me, and their shrimp small plate in a tomato base was a delight. Not into french fries usually, I devoured every last little thin crispy one here. The place was hopping.

Walking down to Viceroy, I was amazed at the size of their beach set up. From the web cam you are only seeing about a third of their chairs. We were stunned to see that they had replaced their brand new palm tree pool with another new infinity pool down on the beach level. The beach attendant told us that they also added a rock climbing wall and a large kids fountain in their kid's section as part of their new renovations. Very crowded down on this end of the beach and Viceroy looks like the happening place on this day.

The rest of the day was spent trying hard not to leave our lounge chairs on Maundays. Their little tea setup at 4:00 PM usually gets me up as I love the scones and cookies. The sorbets this year were a little overly sweet for our taste and when mentioned to our beach attendant, we hear, "Yes, I know, everybody says that and we tell them, but this is what we get back from the kitchen."

Sand Bar on Sandy Ground is our new very favorite place to eat. Love their grilled vegetable and Lemongrass chicken. I would love to see them add tapas type desserts to their menu. Sometimes they have dessert, sometimes not. You can eat here feet in the sand with their tables right on the beach or as we did right on the edge of the deck and it is oh so romantic. Since it opened we have never missed this very special place. Service is always swift and excellent here and we usually save it until the end of the week when we begin to tire of the of all the fine dining.

Back at Cap Juluca we could hear Boss's music drifting down the beach as we waited to catch Bankie Banks at the Dune Preserve. There is a $20 cover charge per person and while the show is supposed to start at 9:45PM, Bankie didn't start singing on this night until close to 11:00 PM. About 10 people, it was a personal, intimate experience and Bankie's voice is amazing. Next trip hope to catch him at the Pumphouse with his son Omari.

Once again we are happy, feeling good, and back an Anguilla state of mind.

NY
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1. Re: St. Barths/Anguilla Day Six

Daffy2, It is interesting that you were wondering "where are the saint barth people". In truth, they are everywhere and nowhere, as they are generally indistinguishable from "the French".

Saint Barth is a full fledge part of France, and has been for a long time. Without getting into details, it has the equivalent of a full fledged "state" status. People from France can settle in Saint Barth without constraints, and vice versa. Many do. All enjoy full civil and voting rights. Hence while the island feels so french.

In general, islanders will make the distinction between "Les Saint Barth", i.e. people born on the island and from older famillies, and "les metropoles", people born in metropolitan france who have come to saint barth either just for the tourist season or for the longer term. Telling them apart is hard. There is a Saint Barth accent which you may recognize if your french is very very fluent, but even that is harder as the saint barth often lose the accent in talking to visitors.

Also, as the island never had slavery (because it never had much agriculture due to geography), the saint barth are descendants of french fisherman and soldiers who came from brittany and normandy, not so much of former slaves as is common in other carribean islands.

In general most people working in the restaurant trades are "metropoles". Hotels are mixed. You mentionned La Pettie Anse and Baie des Anges. These are both owned and run by "Saint Barth" folks. Shops everywhere are owned by both. Staff in fashion shops tends to be "metropole". Staff in grocery stores, electronic stores, gas stations, etc. Tend to be Saint Barth. But there are exceptions in both cases. Staff at the aipport is about half saint barth. Also at the car rentals. But again, to the untrained eye, they will just look French. (Even Saint Barth commuter, which you took, is a very Saint Barth company. It is owned by the island president, who still on occasion flies the planes).

Also the French governement subsidises studies of all local children, and many/most teenagers will go France for high school and college as there aren't such establishments in saint barth. So this contributes, perhaps a tad sadly, to strengthening the "french" culture.

If you go into Gustavia or Lorient early in the morning, you will see older ladies wearing the traditional flowery dresses doing their shopping. They tend to rise early and shop before the crowds. These are probably the only people left that you can visually identify as saint barth. But there are fewer and fewer of them.

As you said, saint barth feels like france for those reasons.

Philadelphia
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2. Re: St. Barths/Anguilla Day Six

mmmmpppp, excellent post and explanation.

May I post it on the Anguilla forum as coming from you?

NY
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3. Re: St. Barths/Anguilla Day Six

My pleasure

Pittsburgh...
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4. Re: St. Barths/Anguilla Day Six

mmmmpppp,

Excellent job explaining the population of St Barth. You hit the nail on the head as to why the island feels much more European than the rest of the Caribbean. Last night we picked up a pizza in Corrossol and you would have sworn the owner was a Vogue model. We shared some wine while waiting for our pizza. That's why we love the place. OK back to my nap on St Jean....

5. Re: St. Barths/Anguilla Day Six

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