Just returned from 10 days in Eleuthera. This will be an abridged version of a longer narrative that we prepared for friends and family, along with some additional observations. I’ll be happy to email the complete document to any one who would like it, just send me a PM. It might be interesting for those who are planning their first visit, or those who want need a Lutra fix.
Here’s a link to some of the many photos we took that match up with the narrative..
We were originally scheduled for a week in February, but our flight out was cancelled due to the snow storms. We stayed at Seaglass cottage in Rainbow Bay. Laura, the owner, generously let us reschedule. We were lucky to find an open week (actually 9 nights) in March, Seaglass is booked pretty much all the time. Eleuthera and Seaglass may not be for everyone, but we had a terrific time and will return.
A couple excerpts from our story.
Where’s Naaman Rolle?
We land at North Eleuthera International Airport only a few minutes late. We have reserved a rental car with a local, Naaman Rolle, recommended by Laura who owns the cottage we have rented. On Eleuthera there is no Hertz Gold Service, no Hertz or any other agency on the island for that matter. Everything is done with locals.
As we exit customs & immigration a man asks us if we need a taxi. I tell him we have reserved with Naaman. It seems he is not there, but the man knows him and gives him a call. Naaman has forgotten about us, but not to worry. The man takes us to a car, loads our luggage, gives us the keys and tells us Naaman will meet us at the cottage and bring us another car. No contract signed, no money changes hands. We’re on our way with a reminder to “stay left” a warning that will be repeated often as they drive on the left side. It seems that some Americans forget the warning resulting in, well, serious problems.
Our first dinner on the island.
After we settle in at the cottage we head to Governor’s Harbor looking for someplace to eat on a Sunday evening. We know that most everything closes early on Sunday, if they open at all. But there must some restaurants open, right? We find “Closed” signs in all the places we pass.
Then we come to a roadside BBQ stand with activity, much like the “lolos” in St. Martin. It’s the site of the Friday Night Fish Fry that we already have on our schedule. We park the car and walk across the street. They welcome us warmly, we tell them we are glad to find someone open for business. They tell us that this is a private party for a baby christening, but we are welcome to join them. Grilled chicken, snapper, rice & beans, mac & cheese, coleslaw, lemon cake, bread pudding, sodas. After we finish (not really finish, they served us so much we took home about half in the Styrofoam containers that served as plates) I asked how much we owed them. She said nothing and seemed insistent, so I said OK, but we want to give a present for the baby. That she said would be OK. We are beginning to realize that is will be one special vacation.
Traffic. There is none. Drivers are courteous, but speed limit signs are merely suggestions that are frequently ignored. Same thing with one-way streets.
The people are incredibly friendly unlike some places in the Caribbean.
Weather was near perfect, mid 70’s during the day, no humidity. Only two days out of 10 were overcast.
The beaches are some of the most beautiful we have ever seen. We visited 12 plus driving by many others. Out favorite is Poponi, one notch above French Leave primarily because of the thatch roof huts we found at the now closed Capt. Jack’s that provided some shelter from the sun.
The beaches are nearly deserted. The most number we saw on any of the beaches at one time was 12 scattered along 2 miles. It’s not a problem for those who like to spend time “sans textiles”. There are plenty of space.
We had been long time visitors to French St. Martin, but we have found our new vacation destination. It’s exactly what we were looking for.Edited: 18 March 2010, 18:56